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Throttle Body Clean

ShadowsPapa

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If they don't need cleaning then explain this!!
Also, YouTube stars say clean your throttle body once a month.

https://www.crcindustries.com/throttle-body-air-intake-cleaner-12-wt-oz/
One wants to sell product, the rest want to generate clicks.
LOL Youtube "stars". (legends in their own minds)

Bet they are cleaning other stuff in the process.
Still looking for a true expert to show how some soot or a small patch of something you can't measure with a good micrometer is disrupting air flow to the point of poor performance.
Waiting............
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ecidiego

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On Honda engines you have to reset the TPS trim after cleaning. Do you on these?

I remember you would never want to manually move the blade either. Key on, brick on pedal to open the valve, and clean. Then reset the TPS.

CURIOUS if 3.6 requires same.
 

ecidiego

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Other sensors decide how much air should be coming in based on the position of that butterfly/disk, MAP/MAF and so on.
The butterfly plate itself is of little consequence until or unless there's enough buildup to disrupt air flow.
This is why Honda requires the reset. Eventually, the TPS runs out of adjustment to control the idle. Then you clean the TB, it closes more, the trim stays to where it crept up to with a dirty throttle, and you idle at 2000 RPM until you reset it.

https://hondatheotherside.com/how-to-reset-throttle-position-sensor-honda/

Some sites say you can disconnect battery but it rarely works, or takes days to finally sort itself. OBD II reset is instant.
 

ShadowsPapa

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This is why Honda requires the reset. Eventually, the TPS runs out of adjustment to control the idle. Then you clean the TB, it closes more, the trim stays to where it crept up to with a dirty throttle, and you idle at 2000 RPM until you reset it.

https://hondatheotherside.com/how-to-reset-throttle-position-sensor-honda/

Some sites say you can disconnect battery but it rarely works, or takes days to finally sort itself. OBD II reset is instant.
You are talking of something that actually holds the throttle plate open. That takes a deposit around the edge of the butterfly and where the butterfly meets the throttle body bore.
I'm not seeing that happening with the 4.0 or even the 3.6 in any pics I've seen. it's not something that's preventing closure. It takes something more than the streaks of black or discoloration on the surface of the plate to do that. It takes a real build-up of deposits.
Looking at mine - both - there's nothing there of any consequence to clean.
Seems like it would take a whole lot of miles - or an engine with some other issues - to gunk things up that badly (well, Honda explains a bit)

Take a look at the closeup of mine - to hold it open farther than that is going to take some more serious build-up, something literally measurable.
This once a month or even once every 25,000 miles is going over the edge.
 

Lunentucker

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One wants to sell product, the rest want to generate clicks.
LOL Youtube "stars". (legends in their own minds)

Bet they are cleaning other stuff in the process.
Still looking for a true expert to show how some soot or a small patch of something you can't measure with a good micrometer is disrupting air flow to the point of poor performance.
Waiting............
All jokes aside, I can't see where cleaning would do any harm, IF done correctly.
I run a can of Seafoam in a tankful before every oil change now, so maybe I'll get super bored with yardwork and take a peek at mine next time I do the oil.

Then again, there's always something to do around this place.

Jeep Gladiator Throttle Body Clean PXL_20231001_195606279~2
 
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ecidiego

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You are talking of something that actually holds the throttle plate open. That takes a deposit around the edge of the butterfly and where the butterfly meets the throttle body bore.
I'm not seeing that happening with the 4.0 or even the 3.6 in any pics I've seen. it's not something that's preventing closure. It takes something more than the streaks of black or discoloration on the surface of the plate to do that. It takes a real build-up of deposits.
Looking at mine - both - there's nothing there of any consequence to clean.
Seems like it would take a whole lot of miles - or an engine with some other issues - to gunk things up that badly (well, Honda explains a bit)

Take a look at the closeup of mine - to hold it open farther than that is going to take some more serious build-up, something literally measurable.
This once a month or even once every 25,000 miles is going over the edge.
Yeah sorry, TPS wrong acronym. throttle valve actuator I think it's called. I cleaned it when wife said " the engine runs rough when the AC is on at idle"

So - the TPS makes adjustments since the throttle valve actuator can no longer close the valve as much as it could before. Actuator says closed, TPS says "what, no it isn't, but I'll tell the ECU to adjust trims to compensate". Something like that, lol. I know with Honda you never want to manually move the valve.
 

MOJAVEC22

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Yeah sorry, TPS wrong acronym. throttle valve actuator I think it's called. I cleaned it when wife said " the engine runs rough when the AC is on at idle"

So - the TPS makes adjustments since the throttle valve actuator can no longer close the valve as much as it could before. Actuator says closed, TPS says "what, no it isn't, but I'll tell the ECU to adjust trims to compensate". Something like that, lol. I know with Honda you never want to manually move the valve.
Dealer replaced my throttle body and PVC valve last visit and I still have a weird idle, especially at 700rpm when I’m inching up the driveway or backing up real slowly. Runs fine if I’m on the throttle above that. I Just replaced the manifold air pressure sensor yesterday and seemed better but still noticable. I noticed oil on the map sensor last week that’s why I bought a new one($40 bucks figured why not, oil blowby from pcv valve coated it.) Not sure what else could be causing it. Dealer assures me the timing is not off (this started happening after the replaced my passenger side head at 40k miles) I now have 48k miles and no engine lights or anything besides the weird studder at ~700rpm. Anyone know if there’s anything else I can clean or look at before I take it back to the dealer. I was told if they can’t figure it out they would send mopar engineers the data and have them take a look. It’s just annoying because it never did this until the heads were replaced. 1st one at 39k miles then the second head at 41k. Didn’t do this until the second head tho. Almost feels like a mildly cammed car loping when I inch the throttle to 700rpm. And at idle I can just feel it a lil rough in the cab, but can’t see the jump on the needle. In this video I’m inching to ~700rpm and it does this. Jumps up and down, noticeable on the needle. Smooths out above that and accelerates fine. Dealer doesn’t think it’s related to the head swap but can’t tell me why it’s doing it now since i got it back smh. Service advisor has been helpful mostly, but just shitty mechanics? , to slammed to dig deeper?, or just lazy trying to brush their hands off of it every time. It’s not terrible but just more annoying than anything else .


 
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darkhorse13

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Bumping thread up... Well I decided to take a look at my TB since my truck is at 60K miles. It looks pretty bad IMO. Going to remove it and clean it off. Question, should I move the butterfly by hand to clean the edges? My assumption is NO due to the calibration of the TB itself and not recognizing the butterfly is in the correct position? I see a lot of conflicting YouTube videos on the topic and wanted to ask my Jeep folks here first. I'm leaning towards just a gentle scrub with it off and not moving the butterfly.

Jeep Gladiator Throttle Body Clean 1738967753377-q4



Jeep Gladiator Throttle Body Clean 1738967729033-f3
 

Hootbro

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Bumping thread up... Well I decided to take a look at my TB since my truck is at 60K miles. It looks pretty bad IMO. Going to remove it and clean it off. Question, should I move the butterfly by hand to clean the edges? My assumption is NO due to the calibration of the TB itself and not recognizing the butterfly is in the correct position? I see a lot of conflicting YouTube videos on the topic and wanted to ask my Jeep folks here first. I'm leaning towards just a gentle scrub with it off and not moving the butterfly.

1738967753377-q4.jpg



1738967729033-f3.jpg
I am a data point of one, but I have done the throttle body cleaning twice now and all I did was just disconnect the electrical connector, gently opened the butterfly and did the cleaning I needed and gently closed it. Had no issues doing this or needing to do a throttle body relearn.
 

Minty JL

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Oh, this is a fun one
 

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darkhorse13

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Oh, this is a fun one
I assume you mean the "debate" to manually move the butterfly or not? Hopefully we can just keep it civil :) Sorry if I opened the can...
 

Minty JL

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I assume you mean the "debate" to manually move the butterfly or not? Hopefully we can just keep it civil :) Sorry if I opened the can...
To clean I remove and clean both sides
 

darkhorse13

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Well, I spent all of 10min cleaning time by taking it off with the (4) bolts, unclipping the connector and removing the push clip from the TB holding the wiring up neat. I personally did NOT move the butterfly and feel pleased with the results (both front and rear cleaned).

I didn't replace the green o-ring (gasket) despite my OCD really wanting to do the job 110%. It did look good to the naked eye and was not torn or too crushed. I might still run to the dealership and get a new one though if anything seems different on start up.

Jeep Gladiator Throttle Body Clean 1738971528811-n7
 

Maximus Gladius

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I had done mine a couple times in both engines and never thought twice to manhandle the butterfly with TB cleaner and a paint brush. The TB was disconnected and taken off. No issues. I do have a diagnostic tool and FCA SGW license that allows me to recalibrate the TB. I’ll try that just for fun and update y awl if I notice any difference.
 

darkhorse13

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I had done mine a couple times in both engines and never thought twice to manhandle the butterfly with TB cleaner and a paint brush. The TB was disconnected and taken off. No issues. I do have a diagnostic tool and FCA SGW license that allows me to recalibrate the TB. I’ll try that just for fun and update y awl if I notice any difference.
For science! Thanks for testing and let us know.
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