DIY: Remove and replace drivers broken body mount bolt -- how-to instructions w/ photos

[ShadowsPapa]

Be aware that the location of the front body mount bolts (not the very front like in the engine bay - but the front in reference to our sliders/steps) has changed on the 24 and later model years.
RSE emailed me when I asked about "why are you listing two sets for the JT - one for 20-23 and another for 24-25" and they said - because the front body bolt was moved and it required a different bracket and bracket position.

The issue with heating these large long bolts is that you are losing a lot of heat before it can transfer to where it is needed. So yes, you really need to get the head of the bolt quite hot in order to transfer enough heat up to the thread area. As you are heating, all of the metal that bolt is touching is acting like a heat sink, drawing heat OUT of the bolt. That includes the big washer and anything else touching that bolt. They are heat sinks pulling heat out of the bolt as you are trying to get it hot enough that the heat reaches the threads inches away from the head of the bolt.

I broke mine with a 15" bar - yes, only 15". I got the bolt down enough to put the bracket in place, and started to turn it back in and SNAP.
That's when i turned around and ordered the heater above. I've since used that heater for getting the pulley off a JD mower deck gear box, bending steel rod, and other uses so it's not been a waste.

Look at the length of bolt and that huge washer taking heat away from the bolt while you try to heat the thing only by that little bit of bolt head you have access to...........

This short little bar broke that bolt.

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[RoboticsRob]

Be aware that the location of the front body mount bolts (not the very front like in the engine bay - but the front in reference to our sliders/steps) has changed on the 24 and later model years.
RSE emailed me when I asked about "why are you listing two sets for the JT - one for 20-23 and another for 24-25" and they said - because the front body bolt was moved and it required a different bracket and bracket position.

That’s interesting and the first I’ve heard of the body mount bolts being moved. I have a 2024 and my sliders were listed as compatible with 2020-2025 and I didn’t run into any fitment issues related to the body bolts position. Wonder if it’s something related to the specific design of your sliders mounts that didn’t affect all vendors design.

Wonder also then if there is a change if anyone’s had compatibility issues putting take off stock sliders on?

 

[Badunit]

I broke mine with a 15" bar - yes, only 15".

 

[Splenda]

I installed my Rock Hard 4x4 sliders when my Gladiator was a week old, so the original bolts came out very easily. I used the six replacement bolts provided by Rock Hard 4x4 when I installed them. I truly hope I never have to remove them, but I do regret not putting antiseize on them when I installed them. Thanks for the write up. I hope I never need it.

 

[Splenda]

Be aware that the location of the front body mount bolts (not the very front like in the engine bay - but the front in reference to our sliders/steps) has changed on the 24 and later model years.
RSE emailed me when I asked about "why are you listing two sets for the JT - one for 20-23 and another for 24-25" and they said - because the front body bolt was moved and it required a different bracket and bracket position.

The issue with heating these large long bolts is that you are losing a lot of heat before it can transfer to where it is needed. So yes, you really need to get the head of the bolt quite hot in order to transfer enough heat up to the thread area. As you are heating, all of the metal that bolt is touching is acting like a heat sink, drawing heat OUT of the bolt. That includes the big washer and anything else touching that bolt. They are heat sinks pulling heat out of the bolt as you are trying to get it hot enough that the heat reaches the threads inches away from the head of the bolt.

I broke mine with a 15" bar - yes, only 15". I got the bolt down enough to put the bracket in place, and started to turn it back in and SNAP.
That's when i turned around and ordered the heater above. I've since used that heater for getting the pulley off a JD mower deck gear box, bending steel rod, and other uses so it's not been a waste.

Look at the length of bolt and that huge washer taking heat away from the bolt while you try to heat the thing only by that little bit of bolt head you have access to...........

This short little bar broke that bolt.

My body mount bolts don't look the same as the picture you posted. Yours appears to have a large rubber washer under the metal washer. Mine just have the metal washer (2024). The four short ones have a large washer, and the long ones have small washers. One of my long bolts appears to be bent

 

[RacerAV]

Have to ask, what is a cheaper alternative for heat then the induction heater ( though I do want one). Bad areas for flame? What about heat guns? Thanks for heads up!!

Rent mine dude! Not in it for the money, just trying to help out the forum members.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

My body mount bolts don't look the same as the picture you posted. Yours appears to have a large rubber washer under the metal washer. Mine just have the metal washer (2024). The four short ones have a large washer, and the long ones have small washers. One of my long bolts appears to be bent

I know they changed the front cabin area mount and location, almost looks like maybe they changed the others as well. Interesting.
You certainly don't want to break any of them, but at least when I installed my steps, the word around the Jeep world - Gladiator AND Wrangler - was that the front left was typically the worst of any of them and the majority of those who ended up with a broken bolt - it was that left front under the driver's floor pan area. WEIRD.

 

[MoabRat]

Holy cow my son and I removed the bolts for the install of Rock Hard sliders as well. It was about 5 degrees below freezing in the garage. No heater and now I feel lucky nothing went wrong. The truck was only a couple weeks old so maybe that helped, as posited by the post above. Glad they supplied new and much better hardware. No bending on the ones I removed though. WHEW I must have searched wrong. If I any idea they were so easily broken I might have made a shop do it. Priceless time with my teen son though

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Holy cow my son and I removed the bolts for the install of Rock Hard sliders as well. It was about 5 degrees below freezing in the garage. No heater and now I feel lucky nothing went wrong. The truck was only a couple weeks old so maybe that helped, as posited by the post above. Glad they supplied new and much better hardware. No bending on the ones I removed though. WHEW I must have searched wrong. If I any idea they were so easily broken I might have made a shop do it. Priceless time with my teen son though

Our JLU it really wasn't bad and it was pretty chilly out, not summer.
My JT - some bolts actually came right loose, even could take them out completely with no real effort, but a couple of them fought, and that left front - well, 'nuff said on that one.
It's hit or miss on these things. I don't think anyone can predict your luck or how easy they will be.
Do note, however, that the FCA documents on body bolt removal - the instructions clearly state to use an inductive heater to heat the bolts before removal. Hmmmm.
Wish I had my hands on that document BEFORE I did mine!

 

[Lochsa]

I am doing RSE sliders on my 2024 Gladiator today. My Gladiator was built in September 2024 for what its worth. I was able to get all six of the body bolts out. I used a small benzomatic torch to focus the heat on the head of the bolt. I heated the head of the bolt to about 250 degrees multiple times, checking with an infrared thermometer. When the heat stabilized, I began removing the bolt. I then set a torque wrench to 95 ft/lbs and was very careful about turning the wrench parallel, so not as to add side torque. If the torque wrench clicked on removal I backed off and reversed. I did reverse irrespective several times, I probably spent 25 minutes per bolt. The end result was success, whether technique or luck who knows, but doing this on April Fools, might not have been the best Idea. The 24s do come with a different front mount. Unfortunately, Northridge played an April Fool's joke on me and sent me the wrong parts package which comes with the slider extensions. If you order the sliders make sure the extension pack is BD-SS-301-JT4E vs BD-SS-300-JT4E. The only difference in the the packs is the front mounts, and the on/off bracket switch and bolt. So now I sit and wait for the brackets to arrive.

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