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Upgrade inverter questions

Josepr

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I have a 2024 with bed outlet / 240A alternator. And would like if possible to increade the power of the bed alternator to a ~15A, 1500W-1800W (Regular 15A circuit in a house). That should be around 150A DC and in the AC side 14awg cable.
Only time i would use it at 1500W would be with car on so I think the alternator should be able to handle the load.
Has anyone looked at the wiring that powers the outlet and knows the size of the wires? See if i can tap into the existing wiring/outlet instead of running new one.
What is the closest place to the battery/altenator wiring i could install the inverter and tap into the 12V and if anyone has done something similar?
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I have a 2024 with bed outlet / 240A alternator. And would like if possible to increade the power of the bed alternator to a ~15A, 1500W-1800W (Regular 15A circuit in a house). That should be around 150A DC and in the AC side 14awg cable.
Only time i would use it at 1500W would be with car on so I think the alternator should be able to handle the load.
Has anyone looked at the wiring that powers the outlet and knows the size of the wires? See if i can tap into the existing wiring/outlet instead of running new one.
What is the closest place to the battery/altenator wiring i could install the inverter and tap into the 12V and if anyone has done something similar?
Bed Alternator?? There is only one alternator and one 400W inverter from the factory which powers both outlets (console and bed). You could install a second inverter of your choosing and power from battery and install new wiring to the bed outlet.
 

Zachanadandy

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If you put the inverter in the cab (should fit under the passengers seat) and route #1/0 to the battery (with a fuse holder near the battery) that would work and be the cheapest option as non-weatherproof inverters are far cheaper than outdoor rated ones. Being that you'll have 120v wiring with a pretty lengthy run at that point I'd run #10 awg to minimize voltage drop. If you're splicing into the factory outlet wiring I'd do it right behind the plug in the bed as I'm sure their wire is undersized.
 

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I have a 2024 with bed outlet / 240A alternator. And would like if possible to increade the power of the bed alternator to a ~15A, 1500W-1800W (Regular 15A circuit in a house). That should be around 150A DC and in the AC side 14awg cable.
Only time i would use it at 1500W would be with car on so I think the alternator should be able to handle the load.
Has anyone looked at the wiring that powers the outlet and knows the size of the wires? See if i can tap into the existing wiring/outlet instead of running new one.
What is the closest place to the battery/altenator wiring i could install the inverter and tap into the 12V and if anyone has done something similar?
I have a fridge in the back had dealer run 10 gauge with 20 amp fuse to a switch that would only power the outlet when the engine was on and it went direct to the battery so it puts out around 12.7-13 v when on I have my power cell plugged into it so it will run the fridge when the engine is off and it keeps the solar cell charged while running spent 8 days in rocky mountain national park and 2 10 day outings in Death Valley no issues and kept everything cold or frozen the whole time . I had the dealer do it so that it was covered under their warranty
 

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Has anyone looked at the wiring that powers the outlet and knows the size of the wires? See if i can tap into the existing wiring/outlet instead of running new one.
You’re talking about quadrupling the load on the existing wiring? I think you probably already know this is not a good idea. Jeep (and all mfgs) don’t put in oversized wiring that can handle this - usually it’s only barely adequate.

Running new wiring straight from the battery is the correct thing to do, and isn’t as hard as you might think. 150A load is closer to a winch than other automotive loads, so you can look to those installs for ideas. You should fuse it at the battery terminal (something like a BlueSea MRBF style fuse is ideal in this range).

Need to decide where to mount the inverter - quality 1800W inverters aren’t small so pull some dimensions and get in the truck with a tape measure. Under the passenger seat is doable, under the rear seat is doable, straight 12V run to the bed if you have a cap is no problem either
 

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Josepr

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Bed Alternator?? There is only one alternator and one 400W inverter from the factory which powers both outlets (console and bed). You could install a second inverter of your choosing and power from battery and install new wiring to the bed outlet.
I meant both a bed outlet with the factory 400W and the higher amp alternator also.from factory.
 
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Josepr

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If you put the inverter in the cab (should fit under the passengers seat) and route #1/0 to the battery (with a fuse holder near the battery) that would work and be the cheapest option as non-weatherproof inverters are far cheaper than outdoor rated ones. Being that you'll have 120v wiring with a pretty lengthy run at that point I'd run #10 awg to minimize voltage drop. If you're splicing into the factory outlet wiring I'd do it right behind the plug in the bed as I'm sure their wire is undersized.
Thanks, will need to look into space wasnt sure if there was space under the hood to place the inverter and save space inside the cab.

That is actually a short run for ac power, low voltage drop for 120 up to 50' i would use #14 ~2% voltage drop at the normal 12A (80% constant load), 3.3% 15A load. But at most would use 12awg.
 
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Josepr

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You’re talking about quadrupling the load on the existing wiring? I think you probably already know this is not a good idea. Jeep (and all mfgs) don’t put in oversized wiring that can handle this - usually it’s only barely adequate.

Running new wiring straight from the battery is the correct thing to do, and isn’t as hard as you might think. 150A load is closer to a winch than other automotive loads, so you can look to those installs for ideas. You should fuse it at the battery terminal (something like a BlueSea MRBF style fuse is ideal in this range).

Need to decide where to mount the inverter - quality 1800W inverters aren’t small so pull some dimensions and get in the truck with a tape measure. Under the passenger seat is doable, under the rear seat is doable, straight 12V run to the bed if you have a cap is no problem either
Actually i my gladiator is 2025 put the wrong the year.
I am looking in the cab at the blank panel in the drivers side not sure if there would be enough space there to mount one, but hesitant to run 150A wire all the way there long run and bulky cable.
 

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It's all in the math. Volts x amps = watts. If you want 1800 wats for a 120 V load you will be pulling 1800 / 12 from the battery, so about 150 amps.
 

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Thanks, will need to look into space wasnt sure if there was space under the hood to place the inverter and save space inside the cab.

That is actually a short run for ac power, low voltage drop for 120 up to 50' i would use #14 ~2% voltage drop at the normal 12A (80% constant load), 3.3% 15A load. But at most would use 12awg.
You could probably find room under the hood but then you'd need a weatherproof inverter and the heat would probably kill it quickly. I realize the 14 gauge is fine for voltage drop, but it's also delicate in comparison to a larger wire. I don't even bother with 14 gauge in the house as 12 isn't that much more expensive. In a vehicle exposed to heat, vibrations, weather, and wind your house will never see I stick with 10 minimum.
 

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A high quality copper battery jumper type cable.
 
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Thanks, will need to look into space wasnt sure if there was space under the hood to place the inverter and save space inside the cab.

That is actually a short run for ac power, low voltage drop for 120 up to 50' i would use #14 ~2% voltage drop at the normal 12A (80% constant load), 3.3% 15A load. But at most would use 12awg.
14 awg wire is only rated for 15 amp, if fused at 20 amp needs to be 12 awg.
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