Sub Upgrade Kicker HS10

[Schaft]

Yeah I missed the bass too, didn’t want to lose space and didn’t want to go nuts with a custom box.

Wiring was super easy, just ran power, If you have the aux switches you don’t even need to go to the battery. If you have the aux switch package, there’s wiring for the interior behind the kick panel and you can just connect directly to the 40 amp wire. If you don’t have it then you have to go through the firewall and go to the battery directly. Ground is pretty self-explanatory. The remote wiring is not necessary. The sub turns on when it has an audio signal and turns off when the audio signal is gone. As for the speaker wiring, I just tapped into the orange and orange and black off of the original sub, you don’t have to pull the entire back panel. You can pull on the passenger side pocket after removing the screws and it will just pop out the wiring for the stock sub is right there.

And that’s all there is to it, my friend.

Question about wiring, using the auxiliary switch factory wiring?
Do you have it configured from the battery, or from the ignition, on the settings, of your infotainment center? Also, do you have to depress that particular auxiliary switch, every time you turn on the stereo, to activate the subwoofer, or does it automatically come on, as you said, without pressing the switch?

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[calipoontappa]

Question about wiring, using the auxiliary switch factory wiring?
Do you have it configured from the battery, or from the ignition, on the settings, of your infotainment center? Also, do you have to depress that particular auxiliary switch, every time you turn on the stereo, to activate the subwoofer, or does it automatically come on, as you said, without pressing the switch?

Went to the battery.
It turns on/off on its own no need to press or do anything other than turn on the truck.

 

[Schaft]

Went to the battery.
It turns on/off on its own no need to press or do anything other than turn on the truck.

Awesome info. Much appreciation.

 

[JeepNightHawk]

Awesome info. Much appreciation.

There is a switch . Flip it to DC. The amp will recognize the car is not on and shut itself down.

 

[TarheelJT]

I installed my HS10 lastnight. As mentioned above, it is the easiest install ever. Yes!!! It sounds amazing.

Did you tap into the original sub wiring per OP? I'm debating to just do that since it seems way easier than running to the passenger pillar to tap into the speaker wiring. Also, trying to figure out why this sub is a good bit more from trail seven than others like Crutchfield, is it because they provide the pre-wired harness ?

TrailSeven description:
"Our plug and play (pre-wired, soldered, shrink-wrapped) Kicker Hideaway Powered Subwoofer bundle is a great upgrade to add that extra bit of bump into your Jeep JT Gladiator!"

• Kicker wire harness will come with male blade/ tap connectors attached and female t-tap connectors will be provided as per the video
• Pre-terminated in-line fuse holder for easy battery connection
• Pre-terminated ground wire lead

 

[calipoontappa]

Did you tap into the original sub wiring per OP? I'm debating to just do that since it seems way easier than running to the passenger pillar to tap into the speaker wiring. Also, trying to figure out why this sub is nearly $100 more from trail seven is it because they provide the wiring harness already wired with Taps, etc?

TrailSeven description:
"Our plug and play (pre-wired, soldered, shrink-wrapped) Kicker Hideaway Powered Subwoofer bundle is a great upgrade to add that extra bit of bump into your Jeep JT Gladiator!"

• Kicker wire harness will come with male blade/ tap connectors attached and female t-tap connectors will be provided as per the video
• Pre-terminated in-line fuse holder for easy battery connection
• Pre-terminated ground wire lead

yeah tapped into sub wiring.

Not sure what pricing your looking. Can you provide links?

 

[TarheelJT]

yeah tapped into sub wiring.

Not sure what pricing your looking. Can you provide links?

Sorry.

Trailseven - $457 (They are running a coupon currently.)
https://trailseven.com/products/kic...ade-20-23-jt-gladiator?variant=43931657142525

Crutchfield - $369
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20651HS10/Kicker-51HS10.html

 

[calipoontappa]

Sorry.

Trailseven - $457 (They are running a coupon currently.)
https://trailseven.com/products/kic...ade-20-23-jt-gladiator?variant=43931657142525

Crutchfield - $369
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20651HS10/Kicker-51HS10.html

Yeah they are charging $100 extra for a lame after market kit that probably cost them $10. Buy the less expensive version.

 

[TarheelJT]

Yeah they are charging $100 extra for a lame after market kit that probably cost them $10. Buy the less expensive version.

Thx. That was my thought also. I like easy but not at that price. Thanks for the tip on tapping into the existing sub that should save a lot of time.

 

[JeepNightHawk]

Thx. That was my thought also. I like easy but not at that price. Thanks for the tip on tapping into the existing sub that should save a lot of time.

Yup they give you some 2 cent wire connectors, extra wire, . Although, I did need to buy some extra wire.

 

[TarheelJT]

Yeah I missed the bass too, didn’t want to lose space and didn’t want to go nuts with a custom box.

Wiring was super easy, just ran power, If you have the aux switches you don’t even need to go to the battery. If you have the aux switch package, there’s wiring for the interior behind the kick panel and you can just connect directly to the 40 amp wire. If you don’t have it then you have to go through the firewall and go to the battery directly. Ground is pretty self-explanatory. The remote wiring is not necessary. The sub turns on when it has an audio signal and turns off when the audio signal is gone. As for the speaker wiring, I just tapped into the orange and orange and black off of the original sub, you don’t have to pull the entire back panel. You can pull on the passenger side pocket after removing the screws and it will just pop out the wiring for the stock sub is right there.

And that’s all there is to it, my friend.

One last thing I just wanted to see if you could clarify more on removal of the "pocket" where I need to tap into the sub? I just want to make sure I dont snap anything. Is there a panel hiding the screws I assume?

"You can pull on the passenger side pocket after removing the screws and it will just pop out the wiring for the stock sub is right there."

 

[calipoontappa]

One last thing I just wanted to see if you could clarify more on removal of the "pocket" where I need to tap into the sub? I just want to make sure I dont snap anything. Is there a panel hiding the screws I assume?

"You can pull on the passenger side pocket after removing the screws and it will just pop out the wiring for the stock sub is right there."

Yeah, if I remember correctly there are some tabs that cover the screws, pop them off then just remove the screws that hold it there, use a pry tool or flat head screwdriver and pop the panel off and you’ll see the wires for the sub right there.

 

[TarheelJT]

Yeah, if I remember correctly there are some tabs that cover the screws, pop them off then just remove the screws that hold it there, use a pry tool or flat head screwdriver and pop the panel off and you’ll see the wires for the sub right there.

Thank you! I placed an order for the sub. I like the idea of turning down the Bass on the radio head unit and the ability to adjust on the Kicker volume adjustment, hoping this will allow for playing a bit louder when the top is off without as much distortion.

 

[calipoontappa]

Thank you! I placed an order for the sub. I like the idea of turning down the Bass on the radio head unit and the ability to adjust on the Kicker volume adjustment, hoping this will allow for playing a bit louder when the top is off without as much distortion.

I love it, one of my favorite upgrades. I still can’t believe the bass from such a small footprint.

 

[TarheelJT]

Yeah both going at the same time.
I had the Premo Alpine setup in mine as well, still have the head unit but I replaced all the cheap speakers and added the HS10.

Just pop the pass cubby out, there are 2 little covers covering the screw locations (hard to miss) unscrew and just pull hard on the cubby, it will pop out with some force. It’s just held down with clips. Once that’s off you will see the Alpine sub and the only wiring harness that goes into it. You’re going to want to tap into the orange(+) and the orange/black(-). Run your power, set your ground and you’re all set.

I think I found the area you're talking about to access the factory subwoofer wiring (#4 - 6-pin connector) without having to remove the entire wall trim.

Im thinking the (left) connector smaller one the DarkGrn/Orange (-) and Gray/Orange (+) ? See last picture I marked up.

So did you just attach both the positive (left/right) to the positive and then (left/right) negative to the negative wire of the sub since theres only two?

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