Give it a few days of use. A lot of subs have a “break in” time. The cone of the sub needs to flex and stretch a bit when new. This is a good thing. Means it’s not one of those cheap paper cones that will fail quickly.
I would like to do a similar thing with the Alpine subwoofer wiring. It uses an unusual 6 pin connector that is difficult to source. I am curious how you tracked down the B-pillar connectors that you used. Has anyone been able to find the 6-pin connector that is used by the Alpine subwoofer?
The connectors that I used in my B-pillar are called Deutsch connectors. Common in heavy equipment / big trucks, and starting to see them more in race cars and general upfitting.
Thank You, Your information is the best. I have, after some serious googling, and some help from Google AI, found what I believe to be - at least one side of the six pin subwoofer connector. It is a Yazaki 7282-6454.
Have you switched the auto turn on, to the DC setting?
Is the Input Level selector on the HS10 set to HI?
From my research, if you’re using the rear most speaker wires,(sound bar, wires), as an input, it is considered high. Low would be interconnect cables, also known as RCA cables. So yes, you would have to put that setting on high. And as I said before, make sure, if you’re not using the blue power wire, as the auto turn on, the switch, needs to be set to DC. It senses the input from the rear most speaker wires, and turns your amp on. Mine stays on, for several minutes, after I shut the vehicle off, as there is still a signal, until everything completely powers down. Had me worried at first, but when I googled it, that’s what I learned.
Yes, I have it on DC, HI input and 0 Phase. All my other speakers and the factory sub still work as normal.
Yeah, that’s a head scratcher, for sure. At this point, all I can do is suggest turning the subwoofer gain, on the HS 10, all the way down, the bass boost knob, under the dash or wherever, all the way down, put the head unit volume, to 3/4. Play something with a lot of base, that you’re familiar with. Start by turning the bass boost on the amp up. The instructions said, not in all cases, but in a good portion, 1/2 to 3/4, is the sweet spot, for the bass boost, on the sub. It went on to say, that the knob under the dash, should only be tweaked, a fraction. It says that’s all the tweaking, that should be needed, if you have everything else, adjusted properly. Also, the phase knob, needs to be checked in both positions. Everyone’s system is unique, unto itself, so to say.
I had a memory lapse. It did say to make your initial adjustments, by unplugging the bass boost knob at the sub. Make those adjustments and then do the base boost knob. Make sure the volume is down when you plug that in though.
Unfortunately I am still not getting any sound. May just have a bad unit. Running out of ideas
If you knew somebody with the same sub, you could unplug and swap them to see if it’s the unit or the wiring. Sounds like you know what you’re doing. You did say the light was on, so it must be grounded. At this point, it’s probably worth checking to make sure it’s properly grounded. I had to sand off some paint, to ground mine.
