Articulated 4 link rear suspension

[JTGuy]

I just installed the rear track bar relocation bracket and it seems to help the rear track bar squirm. But now I hear about the wonders of triangulated 4 link and wonder how much better that would be. Looks like fun to install. I just want to know what I am going to end up with as far as ride on the highway. Any insight here ? What will the rear suspension feel like on the highway and desert roads?

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[Free2roam]

@TheSolarWizard might have some insight

 

[JTGuy]

A day of research on the RC 4 Link and it all sounds good. Looks like the arms would be close down there to the muffler and gas tank but no one says they will hit. I got a buddy that can weld the bracket on. I just need to check my shock lengths. Springs are just 2 inch Synergy. Shocks are set on the soft side for now.
Install the bracket and then replace the upper arms one at a time. Then remove the rear track bar. Easy easy. Seems like the rear track bar would do a better job of keeping the rear diff centered. But the 4 link will move easier for a better ride. Still waiting for the voice of experience here.

 

[JTGuy]

Well, it's ordered and on sale. $709 delivered to my door. I have spoken the RC and the install should be cake. I'll be selling my Synergy rear TB and the bracket.

 

[Zachanadandy]

I'm a huge fan. Definitely less pinion angle change under suspension movement which makes the rear feel super planted at speed. Best suspension mod I've ever done on any jeep (and there's been a lot). Track bar wiggle/ head toss is pretty much gone. The front still moves a bit side to side but there's no opposite movement from the rear. The flipped drag link and raised front track bar further reduced the side to side movement. Well worth the money and time in my opinon.

 

[JTGuy]

Hearing nothing but good about this mod. I am not lifted enough for a front DL flip so I will get out of that. The rear suspension will be simpler and better. I just hope there is no hidden issues with it.

 

[Zachanadandy]

Hearing nothing but good about this mod. I am not lifted enough for a front DL flip so I will get out of that. The rear suspension will be simpler and better. I just hope there is no hidden issues with it.

0 negatives that I've experienced. I wouldn't own another gladiator without it.

 

[VA6489]

Built a double triangulated 4 link on my JKUR, helped drivability a lot. planted and no squirm. Working with Rock Krawler on the upper triangulated links for my ACCUAIR system.

 

[Sikjeep2]

I'm running this rear kit, mixed with some other brand lift parts and it rides great.

https://rockkrawler.com/jt-pro-x-upgrade-kit/

 

[professorkx]

I’ve installed the Rock Krawler 4
Link for others, but on my Gladiator I went with the AEV spring system instead of the RK I’ve installed for others. After driving both, I feel the AEV is a better ride and handles loads better…my spousal unit commented last week on a camping trip in the Jeep at how much better it rode than my 2014 with the RK system.

I’ve used Rock Krawler systems before on wranglers with good results, but feel like the ride is more harsh than with an AEV system.

With that said, for Rock Crawling, the RK is much better than the AEV IMHO. Out of curiosity, a few weeks ago, I measured the lift on a Gladiator that I installed the RK system on, and the difference compared to my AEV…both with the same MT Baja Boss tires… and the difference was less than 1/2” at the fenders.

I’ve built 4 link and 3 link systems from scratch, so understand these systems, and they work better when the trail gets extreme. However, my rig will handle the Rubicon the next time I run that trail, and the trails we enjoy in Moab each year…AND I get a better ride for normal use.

the RK system is really easy to install.

 

[Stan H]

Okay so exactly how does 2 bars eliminate a track bar ?

 

[Stan H]

Additiknally I dislike u-bolts they always come loose rust or break off. No offense but No way .

 

[professorkx]

Okay so exactly how does 2 bars eliminate a track bar ?

The track bar simply holds the axle centered on the frame. It’s generally neutral at normal ride height, and shifts slightly to either side during articulation.

a triangulated 4 link will hold the axle centered because of the nature of the design…triangles…so the track bar would serve no useful purpose.

 

[Zachanadandy]

I’ve installed the Rock Krawler 4
Link for others, but on my Gladiator I went with the AEV spring system instead of the RK I’ve installed for others. After driving both, I feel the AEV is a better ride and handles loads better…my spousal unit commented last week on a camping trip in the Jeep at how much better it rode than my 2014 with the RK system.

I’ve used Rock Krawler systems before on wranglers with good results, but feel like the ride is more harsh than with an AEV system.

With that said, for Rock Crawling, the RK is much better than the AEV IMHO. Out of curiosity, a few weeks ago, I measured the lift on a Gladiator that I installed the RK system on, and the difference compared to my AEV…both with the same MT Baja Boss tires… and the difference was less than 1/2” at the fenders.

I’ve built 4 link and 3 link systems from scratch, so understand these systems, and they work better when the trail gets extreme. However, my rig will handle the Rubicon the next time I run that trail, and the trails we enjoy in Moab each year…AND I get a better ride for normal use.

the RK system is really easy to install.

I get where you're coming from with your comparison, but comparing the ride of a JK to a JT is apples and oranges. The AEV springs are much better for handling heavier loads for sure, but their kit does nothing to address the terrible rear suspension geometry. The uppers should not be half the length of the lowers, especially in anything with decent suspension travel that gets used. Wild pinion changes with suspension movement is not a good thing. Even if I were going for a heavy build and was going to run AEV or Clayton I'd still add the triangulated upper kit. I added the kit when I was still on the AEV 2" spacer lift. Now I run metalcloak springs. I guarantee your Jeep would ride better with proper rear suspension geometry that is lacking in most kits.

 

[Zachanadandy]

Additiknally I dislike u-bolts they always come loose rust or break off. No offense but No way .

The truss can be welded to the axle tubes and the u-bolts removed. They actually recommend welding for hard use. Personally I kept the ubolts in place after welding for an extra level of strength. I'll take ubolts and proper suspension geometry over the terrible short upper/long lower factory setup and its resultant wild pinion angle changes.

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