Crazy question... Has any MT owner gone back to stock clutch after doing an upgrade?

[mbbq22]

On the surface it sounds nuts, but over a year ago, I replaced my clutch with a centerforce and ever since have had issues with difficult shifts, feeling like the clutch is not always disengaging properly, etc. I know some others that have gone aftermarket are experiencing the same. Has anyone made the decision to go back to the stock clutch set up? Just curious.

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[Zachattack50]

I didn't go back to stock, but I did recently switch to ACT after also having issues with the CF setup, both their external and internal slave setup. Same thing, hanging in gear, and not wanting to disengage. I currently have 400 ish miles on the ACT with factory external slave, and lever system and it seems good. Different engagement than the CF but predictable. The factory setup I was never happy with at all. Also the rev hang is slightly less noticeable with the ACT vs the CF.

 

[mendiola21]

On the surface it sounds nuts, but over a year ago, I replaced my clutch with a centerforce and ever since have had issues with difficult shifts, feeling like the clutch is not always disengaging properly, etc. I know some others that have gone aftermarket are experiencing the same. Has anyone made the decision to go back to the stock clutch set up? Just curious.

I have been having issues getting in to gears especially 1st and Reverse. Shifts are not smooth at all when rowing through the other gears. Feels like I have to pull it out and re-attempt especially 2nd gear. Even during acceleration I lose lots of RPM because I have to shift slowly and pull the gears back out and back in. Lastly, not everytime, but usually after I have been driving it a while and at slow speeds this thing starts jerking crazy in 1st and reverse when I just slightly pull the clutch out. It’s to the point where people look at the jeep like something wrong with it or don’t know how to drive.
I’m bringing it back to the shop who installed it. He said he is going to bleed it again. Hopefully that fixes it because it wasn’t always this bad.

Update: my mechanic bled it felt good then went right back again. He thinks it’s the master cylinder being plastic is bleeding down the pressure and all the other HD components that came with the CF Clutch too much for the stock master components. I don’t know enough about it to call BS or not. What do you think?

 

[mbbq22]

This is interesting... I know this is an issue that many who have gone aftermarket with their clutch have experienced. @Gator Overland do you think the plastic master cylinder could be the issue? Honestly, I don't know enough. All i do know is that I haven't heard feedback of any aftermarket clutch being foolproof yet and my driving experience right now is getting worse and worse and I'm just looking for some finality.

 

[hawkijon]

This is interesting... I know this is an issue that many who have gone aftermarket with their clutch have experienced. @Gator Overland do you think the plastic master cylinder could be the issue? Honestly, I don't know enough. All i do know is that I haven't heard feedback of any aftermarket clutch being foolproof yet and my driving experience right now is getting worse and worse and I'm just looking for some finality.

honestly, I am considering going back to a factory clutch even with the known slipping issue. In the Facebook clutch issue group there is someone who has had CF, ACT and South Bend with the same results of not being able to engage gears or feeling like it’s hanging engaged (I.e. the TO Bearing is not sliding properly on the input shaft) , and then went back to stock and hasn’t had an issue since. My fear of continuing with this clutch having engagement issues could lead to damaging the synchros.
I did have a leaking slave cylinder that I replaced back in December, but at that time my engagement issues were intermittent, but 15k miles later it’s nearly every shifting cycle from a stop, and now starting to have a groan when releasing the pedal from the floor before it engages the bite point. Typically before this groan happens the vehicle will have exhibited a slow creep forward at a stop while the pedal is disengaged (on the floor)..
I have recently done a slave cylinder bypass bleed by making a bracket clamp out of flat bar to completely depress the slave plunger, and then with the slave with the bleed port towards “up” position, have someone put pressure on the clutch pedal and I opened the bleeder to reveal some trapped air and closed the valve. The pedal will have to be lifted back up from the floor after this process, but should retain hydraulic resistance thereafter. I refilled the resi as needed after bleeding, and I did this bleed cycle about a dozen times to ensure there was no more air in the system. After reassembling the slave into the transmission and going for a test drive, it was definitely apparent pedal function/resistance had improved over what already felt like a good pedal, but unfortunately it did not solve the hanging issue as hoped. Other than clutch dust combining with the shaft lube over time is causing a tacky lube keeping the bearing from sliding properly, I wonder if the throwout bearing itself is a culprit. The housing is plastic, which could degrade integrity over time causing deflection. Also to mention the groan sound during its time of function when releasing the pedal from the floor before the bite point.
Has anyone changed their throwout bearing and seen Improvment?

 

[Stan H]

On the surface it sounds nuts, but over a year ago, I replaced my clutch with a centerforce and ever since have had issues with difficult shifts, feeling like the clutch is not always disengaging properly, etc. I know some others that have gone aftermarket are experiencing the same. Has anyone made the decision to go back to the stock clutch set up? Just curious.

 

[Zachattack50]

The ACT system retains the factory arm and a factory style throw-out bearing. Going back to a factory clutch setup wouldn't change any of the mechanics of the system. Currently I have the CF master cylinder and braided line, to a factory external slave, and a ACT street mass flywheel and clutch. So far so good, however I haven't had a chance to wheel it much yet. The plastic throw-out is most likely the weakest point, but as far as I know there isn't a good fix other than the CF internal throw-out, which is garbage.

 

[mbbq22]

I'm making the jump and my JTR goes to the dealer on Monday to get the CF clutch pulled out and a stock clutch system put back in. My shifting has gotten increasingly worse over the last few weeks as I'm finding it harder to get the truck in gear especially from a stop. I often have to row through a few other gears while pressing the clutch in order to then be able to get the shifter into 1st. I've finally had it! hahaha

 

[mendiola21]

The ACT system retains the factory arm and a factory style throw-out bearing. Going back to a factory clutch setup wouldn't change any of the mechanics of the system. Currently I have the CF master cylinder and braided line, to a factory external slave, and a ACT street mass flywheel and clutch. So far so good, however I haven't had a chance to wheel it much yet. The plastic throw-out is most likely the weakest point, but as far as I know there isn't a good fix other than the CF internal throw-out, which is garbage.

I am going to be installing CF’s internal throw-out. Why do you say the CF one is garbage? Definitely would like to know more about that before I pay to have them pull it apart again if it won’t fix my issues of gears sticking, hanging, hard to get in to gear from stop etc.

Thanks

 

[Zachattack50]

I am going to be installing CF’s internal throw-out. Why do you say the CF one is garbage? Definitely would like to know more about that before I pay to have them pull it apart again if it won’t fix my issues of gears sticking, hanging, hard to get in to gear from stop etc.

Thanks

It did fix my disengagement issues for about 15k miles. In my case the boot on the internal cylinder failed to keep crud out of the actuator, so it bound up far worse than their first rendition. Honestly, now that I have about 2k miles on the ACT unit, with factory slave setup, Im happier with the response and release point. The ACT street mass setup is about 4lbs lighter than the CF flywheel, seems to be a better fir for the 3.6's lack of bottom end. I wouldn't switch back to CF if they sent me a brand new setup.

 

[mbbq22]

Just to provide an update here. Went to Jeep and had them replace the clutch with a full factory set up and it was done under the clutch recall. Jeep is back to shifting normally. Easy. to get in and out of gear and not needing to force it. Much much softer clutch pedal now so I'll need to get used to that, but all in all, I'm just happy that I can easily get in and out of my gears.

 

[sarneli]

but at that time my engagement issues were intermittent, but 15k miles later it’s nearly every shifting cycle from a stop, and now starting to have a groan when releasing the pedal from the floor before it engages the bite point. Typically before this groan happens the vehicle will have exhibited a slow creep forward at a stop while the pedal is disengaged (on the floor)..

Sorry I'm resurrecting a slightly dormant thread...

I've got basically the same setup and experience. CFII clutch, flywheel, internal slave (tried the external first), CF master. And now I'm considering going back to stock. However I already did the recall, and I'm past warranty. Separating the engine and transmission is a huge pain on these things.

The throwout bearing melted three months after the recall, which is what prompted the change.

I'm ready to put a bandaid on it that works long enough to trade it in. I absolutely hate this transmission setup, and I've had manuals most of my life. I don't want to pay $$$ if I don't have to.

The bigger question that I have is this: is it possible that the pedal or bracket has bent? When my bearing melted on the recalled factory setup, the computer didn't think the clutch was depressed (the sensor is at the pedal), even though it was on the floor. It wouldn't even let me start the engine, I ended up tow-starting it.

After putting the CFII unit on, I had no starting issues, but it's been a nightmare for feeling it's not fully disengaged for the past 45000km. I've tried bleeding it over and over using the vacuum technique. I, too, don't like the shared plastic brake reservoir setup. Has anyone switched to a dedicated reservoir? Would it matter?

What about some sort of shim at the master to press the plunger just a bit more?

Just thinking outside the wallet...

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