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WILDHOBO

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Not being "magnetic" could be multiple things. Stainless would be pretty expensive, but it's possible. Seems like overkill, and stainless against aluminum? Hmmmmmmm.
Good points. Makes me even happier that I painted them.
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dlong1119

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They look like raw stainless to me. There's a good coat of paint already as an insulator, and you could even just put a layer or two of electrical tape on the backside before bolting them down to add more isolation if desired.
 

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They look like raw stainless to me. There's a good coat of paint already as an insulator, and you could even just put a layer or two of electrical tape on the backside before bolting them down to add more isolation if desired.
Could be stainless....... seems like overkill, but could be. I was only suggesting that many metals are non-ferrous (what some call "non-magnetic")

I'd use paint, or, what I often do for such things where some strength is involved, use the cellophane as from a cigarette pack, or the plastic used on some boxes that toy action figures come in, or other bubble pack type hard, firm plastic. It won't move and squirm like tape when it gets hot in the hot sun.
There's a lot of simple ways if someone doesn't want to paint them.
I am still using the plastic washers I made for the louvers on my SX4 - I wanted a plastic washer to go between the nuts and louvers on the hold down area and made them out of a plastic bottle.

Personally, my preference, is paint to match. Otherwise, it would look like a replacement part on my rig. Again, personal preference - want it to match and not look like it's added parts.
 

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I ordered this, and just did the install on my passenger front. Worked great. The brackets come in raw steel, so I painted them with mopar billet silver to match the body. I also pulled the key ring intended ti pull the pin. It was too large in my opinion.

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so I’m rather curious. Are there any dimensional differences between the stock brackets and the new ones? I’m just wondering why we can’t just knock out the pin and use the stock brackets.
 

dlong1119

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so I’m rather curious. Are there any dimensional differences between the stock brackets and the new ones? I’m just wondering why we can’t just knock out the pin and use the stock brackets.
Someone a few posts back said the upper and lower holes are different sizes on the stock bracket and they welded a washer onto it to make them the same size. Not sure how much material there is to drill out the stock arm to match if you instead drilled the bracket out. I'm going to try to get around to installing at least one of the aftermarket brackets/bushings tomorrow and will try to get a few pics if I do.
 

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BambiBasher

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Someone a few posts back said the upper and lower holes are different sizes on the stock bracket and they welded a washer onto it to make them the same size. Not sure how much material there is to drill out the stock arm to match if you instead drilled the bracket out. I'm going to try to get around to installing at least one of the aftermarket brackets/bushings tomorrow and will try to get a few pics if I do.
ah so other than a reason to sell a kit instead of just a pin there’s no difference between the brackets. The stock arm gets drilled out to 5/16” to fit a sleeve in there so you can at least use a 5/16” pin
 

dlong1119

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ah so other than a reason to sell a kit instead of just a pin there’s no difference between the brackets. The stock arm gets drilled out to 5/16” to fit a sleeve in there so you can at least use a 5/16” pin
Drilling out to 5/16" for the bushing is a very minimal increase as the bushing is very thin and it even says you may not need to drill for it's install, but most people say it makes it easier. Not sure what the difference in hole size is between the top and bottom yet.

I'm not saying by any means that it can't be done without the kit, but it's a well made set up from initial inspection and a small price to pay for one stop convenience at a minimum.
 

WILDHOBO

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so I’m rather curious. Are there any dimensional differences between the stock brackets and the new ones? I’m just wondering why we can’t just knock out the pin and use the stock brackets.
They seem quite similar, the the new ones are a tad larger. There would be more work getting the pins out as one end is pressed into the bracket. I didn’t drill them out. I used my portable m12 bandsaw and a 2” cutoff wheel on my die grinder.
 

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You could just drill this pin out and throw your own grade 8 pin in there.
Jeep Gladiator 2026 Gladiator Quick Release Door Hinge (no tools required) + New Colors Drill
 

WILDHOBO

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You could just drill this pin out and throw your own grade 8 pin in there.
Drill.webp
While I agree, it would likely be loose because the holes are different sizes. You could get it to work well with some sleeves. The other thing I didn’t realize is that the existing pin is pressed in really solid on the other end. So the brackets weren’t Ben worth saving for me. Too much work to get the pins out.
 

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Drill all holes to same size. You can get pins that have spring loaded balls in the end like your ratchet or extension - to keep the pin from coming up and out on its own.
No more stress than is on there, I bet any pin would work even well below a "grade 8". It's not in danger of shearing.
 

dlong1119

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Drill all holes to same size. You can get pins that have spring loaded balls in the end like your ratchet or extension - to keep the pin from coming up and out on its own.
No more stress than is on there, I bet any pin would work even well below a "grade 8". It's not in danger of shearing.
Have at it and let us all know how it works out and if the time spent was worth saving $70 minus the cost of the pins and any other parts you use.

On a related note, I found the designer's contact info and just emailed him, got a response in about 5 minutes... the brackets are indeed 304SS. Also, the Jeep body is not aluminum where the brackets mount. The entire inside structure around that bracket is a ferrous material, unlike much of the outer skin.
 

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Have at it and let us all know how it works out and if the time spent was worth saving $70 minus the cost of the pins and any other parts you use.

On a related note, I found the designer's contact info and just emailed him, got a response in about 5 minutes... the brackets are indeed 304SS. Also, the Jeep body is not aluminum where the brackets mount. The entire inside structure around that bracket is a ferrous material, unlike much of the outer skin.
If I get everything else done on the truck I need to do, might just do it to prove how easy it is.
As far as parts - I'll bet I won't have to buy any, likely already have the pins.
No other parts would be needed.
I have other priorities, like putting the snow plow electrical system (an engine bay worth of wiring, relays and so on) and hardware on the JT before winter. So it might wait.

If I do it, I'll log the time and post photos.
(I'll predict 30 minutes per side, for an hour total, that's paying myself $70/hour)
You haven't seen what I do, or my shop.............
 

dlong1119

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If I get everything else done on the truck I need to do, might just do it to prove how easy it is.
As far as parts - I'll bet I won't have to buy any, likely already have the pins.
No other parts would be needed.
I have other priorities, like putting the snow plow electrical system (an engine bay worth of wiring, relays and so on) and hardware on the JT before winter. So it might wait.

If I do it, I'll log the time and post photos.
(I'll predict 30 minutes per side, for an hour total, that's paying myself $70/hour)
You haven't seen what I do, or my shop.............
I'm truly curious, so I hope you do it. You might not have to buy any parts or pins, but most people would. It also sounds like you've got a nice workshop set up, but keep in mind what the average person has. ;)
 

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I'm truly curious, so I hope you do it. You might not have to buy any parts or pins, but most people would. It also sounds like you've got a nice workshop set up, but keep in mind what the average person has. ;)
Very very true. To most that's a great, simple solution. Looks well made, too. Any MOPAR parts are going to be more expensive and sure won't have a good finish.
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