Waiting on a tow after leaving dealer after oil change

[red/green hawk]

I guess I'm a minority but I love having the oil filter right up top easy to get to and take off with a 24mm. No mess either since you can just crack it let it drain back down. Cartridge or spin on doesn't really matter to me, they take the same amount of time so it's a wash. Metal instead of plastic would be nice for longevity though.

Agreed I just changed the filter on my wife's Suburban. Much rather stay standing up then crawling on cold concrete.

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[Zachanadandy]

Agreed I just changed the filter on my wife's Suburban. Much rather stay standing up then crawling on cold concrete.

Does the plug and drain pan handle itself?

 

[Zachanadandy]

I guess I'm a minority but I love having the oil filter right up top easy to get to and take off with a 24mm. No mess either since you can just crack it let it drain back down. Cartridge or spin on doesn't really matter to me, they take the same amount of time so it's a wash. Metal instead of plastic would be nice for longevity though.

I prefer on the bottom so the dirty work is all in spot, I can set the used filter on the drain pan, and one the bottom is done is just pouring in the clean oil and done. I prefer spin on because I've never had one Crack or had an oring failure. I've seen both issues with the cartridge junk.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I get all of that, but what's wrong with a regular replaceable filter like we used for 50+ years? At least then the oring is built in and can't be installed wrong or pushed out of place when being installed. Over torquing still happened, but it almost never caused a leak and worst case I could hammer a screw driver through the damn thing in order to get the leverage to get it off because the entire thing was going in the trash anyway. And if it's on the bottom the oil change is done from 1 spot aside from pouring the new oil in.

I guess you have never owned a vehicle where you access the filter from the engine bay, or the side? Many of mine have been.
Both of my cars - loosed filter from the top, let it drip into pan below, then remove filter.
Get under car, drain the oil, close it up, get back up and put filter on engine, fill with oil.
Everything I own now is filter from the top, including both cars.
Even the Jeep 4.0 is on the side, not below.

I don't like loosening a filter under the vehicle and having the oil run down my arm.......... would rather stand above and let the oil drain into the engine, or at least down away from me -
this is almost ideal -

IF the person doing the oil change pays any attention, there won't be issues with the o-ring.
The only time these cause issues is when fools work on them.
Many years, many 3.6 powered vehicle, never once a leak or a problem.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Does the plug and drain pan handle itself?

You can reach under without laying down.
I don't crawl under to position a drain pan, and I use a hook to pull it back out from under the vehicle. So yeah, no need to crawl under for placing or removing a drain pan Can also just leave it and drive away from it.

For me, laying under a vehicle is problematic - makes me physically ill due to inner ear issues and Meniere's issues. I can slip a pan under my car and when done, pull the pan back out.
I might just get one of those fancy drain plugs for my cars so I don't ever have to crawl under for a simple oil change - all done from above.

 

[Zachanadandy]

I guess you have never owned a vehicle where you access the filter from the engine bay, or the side? Many of mine have been.
Both of my cars - loosed filter from the top, let it drip into pan below, then remove filter.
Get under car, drain the oil, close it up, get back up and put filter on engine, fill with oil.
Everything I own now is filter from the top, including both cars.
Even the Jeep 4.0 is on the side, not below.

I don't like loosening a filter under the vehicle and having the oil run down my arm.......... would rather stand above and let the oil drain into the engine, or at least down away from me -
this is almost ideal -

IF the person doing the oil change pays any attention, there won't be issues with the o-ring.
The only time these cause issues is when fools work on them.
Many years, many 3.6 powered vehicle, never once a leak or a problem.

Most of the side mounted ones I've owned you could still reach from underneath. I'll still take a disposable screw on filter no matter where you mount it, you get a brand new filter housing every oil change.

 

[Zachanadandy]

You can reach under without laying down.
I don't crawl under to position a drain pan, and I use a hook to pull it back out from under the vehicle. So yeah, no need to crawl under for placing or removing a drain pan Can also just leave it and drive away from it.

For me, laying under a vehicle is problematic - makes me physically ill due to inner ear issues and Meniere's issues. I can slip a pan under my car and when done, pull the pan back out.
I might just get one of those fancy drain plugs for my cars so I don't ever have to crawl under for a simple oil change - all done from above.

With the lift and 39s I can damn near sit up under there. With the engine skid accessing the drain plug requires an extension.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I've never had one Crack or had an oring failure. I've seen both issues with the cartridge junk.

I've used cartridge filters for many years, decades, even, on tractors, farm equipment and more.
I've never had an o-ring failure on anything.
I'm used to cartridge filters, I have no issues with them. I also have a jig that holds funnels to drain down a pipe into a jug so I can set a cartridge in one of those funnels and let it drain, lots of creative ways to handle such things.
I guess having grown up with cartridge filters and worked in production shops doing oil changes on anything and everything, tractors, skid loaders, utility tractors, it's just not a big deal, not like some want to make it. If you open that filter housing and leave the filter relaxed in there while you go down below to drain the engine, there's really little oil at all to deal with in that paper cartridge. It's no different, actually less oil, than you have to deal with in a metal houses filter which you have to drain for a long time before disposal.
Open the oil filter as soon as you open the hood - it will have less oil in it than that metal can filter.
So when you take that metal can down - what do you do with all of the oil in that? How do you drain that before disposal? Those take a long time to empty out.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Most of the side mounted ones I've owned you could still reach from underneath.

4.0 filter sits over axle and such - could not get to from under the thing.
Others I've had with side mounted, you could see it but not reach UP far enough to get to it from under. So you opened the hood, and got it from the engine bay.

 

[Zachanadandy]

I've used cartridge filters for many years, decades, even, on tractors, farm equipment and more.
I've never had an o-ring failure on anything.
I'm used to cartridge filters, I have no issues with them. I also have a jig that holds funnels to drain down a pipe into a jug so I can set a cartridge in one of those funnels and let it drain, lots of creative ways to handle such things.
I guess having grown up with cartridge filters and worked in production shops doing oil changes on anything and everything, tractors, skid loaders, utility tractors, it's just not a big deal, not like some want to make it. If you open that filter housing and leave the filter relaxed in there while you go down below to drain the engine, there's really little oil at all to deal with in that paper cartridge. It's no different, actually less oil, than you have to deal with in a metal houses filter which you have to drain for a long time before disposal.
Open the oil filter as soon as you open the hood - it will have less oil in it than that metal can filter.
So when you take that metal can down - what do you do with all of the oil in that? How do you drain that before disposal? Those take a long time to empty out.

My drain pan even has a notch for sitting the filter on to drain... which is under the vehicle where I'd like to see the filter like it is on the 2.0t JLs. And that one's a spin on.

 

[hayduke-TX]

My wife's Subaru has an upside down spin-on up top. Oil changes feel like cheating somehow.

 

[Hootbro]

Nothing is idiot proof. Same monkey that cannot correctly install a o-ring would be the same monkey that would forget to remove a stuck can filter gasket and double gasket it with a new can filter.

I like my Baxter Performance oil filter adapter that lets me use a can filter, but one has to resign themselves to doing all their own oil and filter changes which is pretty much the only solution if one sticks with the factory cartridge oil filter setup and expects it to be done right.

 

[red/green hawk]

Does the plug and drain pan handle itself?

Ha! The filter on the Sub is engineered in a way you can only grip about a 1/2 of it...

 

[agoldxj]

Good old 5.3, 6.2L design.

Ha! The filter on the Sub is engineered in a way you can only grip about a 1/2 of it...

 

[bleda2002]

My drain pan even has a notch for sitting the filter on to drain... which is under the vehicle where I'd like to see the filter like it is on the 2.0t JLs. And that one's a spin on.

I actually just did the 3.6 and the 2.0 at the same time in the driveway. The 2.0 is so much messier with the oil filter just dripping oil all over itself. The 3.6 I loosen the filter 2 turns jump under undo the plug, then did the reverse on the 2.0 and went back to the 3.6 and the filter was empty with no mess. I've yet to ever have an issue with a cartridge either so I just don't get the cartridge hate.

The 3.8 in the JK sucks though, stupid front mounted filter that dumps oil all over the axle splashing everywhere making a giant damn mess. Not great to reach from the top or the bottom either.

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