Re-gearing 34s on a manual transmission for full articulation

[Dilly’S Willy]

This is primarily regarding gearing for the 6 speed manual transmission and running SKINNY 35s (aka 34s, aka 255/85r17) OR 35s that weigh under 70lbs. If you are running these sizes/weight tires, list what lift/mod setup you have, what re-gear you went with, your cruising RPM at 70mph, , if you tow and how much weight/size, and what type of area you drive around (hills vs flat, city vs hwy %).

This is to curb the lack of info regarding re-gearing for people with the manual transmission and skinny 35s.

NOTE:
- (Mall crawler) is defined as a pavement princess that doesn't care about turning full lock/articulation/ZERO RUBBING
- (Full articulation/Towing) is defined as being able to fully articulate the suspension/turn full lock/ZERO RUBBING, and/or towing a load.

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edit: for clarification

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[JT1]

This is primarily regarding gearing for the 6 speed manual transmission and running SKINNY 35s (aka 34s, aka 255/85r17) OR 35s that weigh under 70lbs. If you are running these sizes/weight tires, list what lift/mod setup you have, what re-gear you went with, your cruising RPM at 70mph, , if you tow and how much weight/size, and what type of area you drive around (hills vs flat, city vs hwy %).

This is to curb the lack of info regarding re-gearing for people with the manual transmission and skinny 35s.

NOTE:
- (Mall crawler) is defined as a pavement princess that doesn't care about turning full lock/articulation/ZERO RUBBING
- (Full articulation) is defined as being able to fully articulate the suspension/turn full lock/ZERO RUBBING.

Pics make everything better too!

Gearing has absolutely nothing to do with articulation.

The factory 6spd with 32s and 3.73s is a dog. 6th is a pipe dream except downhill.

4.56 is the answer.

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

Gearing has absolutely nothing to do with articulation.

Correct! But for people who want tires in that size (like me) and coming from a smaller size, and want full articulation with those tires are going to need a lift to do so.

So the point there is to differentiate between people that care about MPG/RPM vs those who just want a look. The Automatic tranny crowd has proven this mindset, so I figured it would be an easy way to quickly differentiate. If that makes any sense, if not I can try to re-word it?

 

[JT1]

Correct! But for people who want tires in that size (like me) and coming from a smaller size, and want full articulation with those tires are going to need a lift to do so.

So the point there is to differentiate between people that care about MPG/RPM vs those who just want a look. The Automatic tranny crowd has proven this mindset, so I figured it would be an easy way to quickly differentiate. If that makes any sense, if not I can try to re-word it?

Ok, I gotcha. With a narrow 34, you will probably need an inch or 1.5 leveling puck up front and slightly longer front shocks and sway bar disconnects to fully articulate it.

Then stuff the front and make sure you aren't going to touch any of the hard bits.

I went straight to 37s on a Clayton 3.5" with my 6spd. Then regeared to 5.13s.

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