Considering switching from PUP to R&P

[oldironsights]

I currently have the 5w30 R&P in both of my Jeeps.
Not enough miles on it to notice any changes.
But, I did not start with any problems.

Cooler temps will arrive eventually, & I will return to the NAPA/PUP in 0w20 for the 3.6 Pentastar when the temps fall.
It is also currently in a new 2.0l Turbo.
Would the R&P cause any damage to a newer engine?
I can find no reason to discontinue, unless someone can convince me otherwise.
If it keeps the turbo drain back lines free & clear, I will be happy.
Clean oil also helps mitigate the intake carbon build up on the intake valves if DI engines.
I put 128k miles on a VW EA888 1.8TSI & never had intake valve deposits.
This 2.0 engine seems even better than that 2015 1.8 TSI.

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[ShadowsPapa]

I currently have the 5w30 R&P in both of my Jeeps.
Not enough miles on it to notice any changes.
But, I did not start with any problems.

Cooler temps will arrive eventually, & I will return to the NAPA/PUP in 0w20 for the 3.6 Pentastar when the temps fall.
It is also currently in a new 2.0l Turbo.
Would the R&P cause any damage to a newer engine?
I can find no reason to discontinue, unless someone can convince me otherwise.
If it keeps the turbo drain back lines free & clear, I will be happy.
Clean oil also helps mitigate the intake carbon build up on the intake valves if DI engines.
I put 128k miles on a VW EA888 1.8TSI & never had intake valve deposits.
This 2.0 engine seems even better than that 2015 1.8 TSI.

Why bother changing from 20 to 30? Climate or outside temps don't impact that part - only the part before the W.
If you are running xW30 you might as well run it all year (or go to 0W30)

People seem to misunderstand the numbers and where they come into play.

 

[oldironsights]

Why bother changing from 20 to 30? Climate or outside temps don't impact that part - only the part before the W.

Because that is what i had on hand.

 

[Sw00per]

Just an update. Pulled the trigger and bought a case (3) of RP. Changed the oil yesterday in prep for a trip to Colorado to do some trails up in Ouray on the 21st. It's 1100 miles one way so when I get back I will change it again. I am thinking about buying an oil analysis kit to collect some data .

 

[TJRjeepn]

Any updates on the experiences and impressions running the Valvoline RP? Curious if making the switch from Pennz Plat next oil change worth it.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Any updates on the experiences and impressions running the Valvoline RP? Curious if making the switch from Pennz Plat next oil change worth it.

What do you expect? People to say they gained 10 HP, faster 0-60 times, their mpg increased by 1.5?
It's not like it's going to be something that can be "felt" although some will insist it does.

 

[oldironsights]

Any updates on the experiences and impressions running the Valvoline RP? Curious if making the switch from Pennz Plat next oil change worth it.

I switched from the 5w30 R&P back to PUP 0w-20 when winter began.
I don't like the results of the 0w-20 & will return to the R&P when temperatures allow.
My results were more engine clatter, faster throttle response, & increased fuel consumption.
I was seeing 30 mpg with the 5w-30 R&P on the highway & 27.5 mpg on county roads.
I detected only one or two seconds of clatter upon a cold start & none during idle or full throttle.
Throttle response seems latent on the 30w but not on the 20w.
Fuel consumption rose to 23.5 on county roads while on the 0w-20 as well as my highway consumption rose to 25.x mpg running the 0w-20.
The cam timing phasers really prefer the 0w-20 & offer faster throttle response with the 0w.
Just surpassed 60k with just some engine clatter upon startup during this cold spell along the gulf coast.
This is my first experience with a V6 of any sort & I am quite impressed with its sweet performance.
If one has ever enjoyed the pleasure of an old "toaster tank" R50 or an ElDorado 850, then that one could relate to what I like about this Pentastar.
Torquey from idle to redline while pushing 2.5+ tons of weight.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The cam timing phasers really prefer the 0w-20 & offer faster throttle response with the 0w.

once the engine is warmed, there's no difference between 5w and 0w. That's only applicable in cold temperatures. So if you could do (in theory) a 5w20 and a 0w20, the differences disappear once the oil is no longer cold.

0w only matters while it's cold, not at operating temperatures.

MPG differences can be totally related to the fuel and cold air. I lost 2 mpg once the temperatures stayed below 20 degrees - cold dense air, more drag. I went from 16 down to 14 - SAME OIL, but mostly due to cold AIR.
Fuel will drop your mpg once you get to a certain date - mpg drops with winter blend fuel.
So you get a double-whammy in the winter - the cold dense air drag, the drag of heavier ATF in cold temps, the lower mpg due to the winter blend fuels.............. can't blame it all on oil. Very not scientific.

 

[oldironsights]

Good to know.
Thanks Papa!

 

[Hootbro]

I switched from the 5w30 R&P back to PUP 0w-20 when winter began.
I don't like the results of the 0w-20 & will return to the R&P when temperatures allow.
My results were more engine clatter, faster throttle response, & increased fuel consumption.
I was seeing 30 mpg with the 5w-30 R&P on the highway & 27.5 mpg on county roads.
I detected only one or two seconds of clatter upon a cold start & none during idle or full throttle.
Throttle response seems latent on the 30w but not on the 20w.
Fuel consumption rose to 23.5 on county roads while on the 0w-20 as well as my highway consumption rose to 25.x mpg running the 0w-20.
The cam timing phasers really prefer the 0w-20 & offer faster throttle response with the 0w.
Just surpassed 60k with just some engine clatter upon startup during this cold spell along the gulf coast.
This is my first experience with a V6 of any sort & I am quite impressed with its sweet performance.
If one has ever enjoyed the pleasure of an old "toaster tank" R50 or an ElDorado 850, then that one could relate to what I like about this Pentastar.
Torquey from idle to redline while pushing 2.5+ tons of weight.

I still have a hard time believing those high MPG numbers you claim. Like almost nobody else even comes close to that.

 

[oldironsights]

I still have a hard time believing those high MPG numbers you claim. Like almost nobody else even comes close to that.

I report the numbers I see on the dashboard.
I often perform resets while driving between cities to gauge how high I can push those numbers.
Speed, wind, water & topography all conspire to use more fuel..
When driving north from the coast, the land rises, & my fuel consumption rises with it.
On the return trip I record the northbound numbers before resetting for the return trip south, then combine the numbers before dividing in half to arrive @ an average for that trip.
I like to compare performance of fuels, oils, tires & such to determine which is best & which to avoid.
I like top tier fuels of high octane with great detergent packages.
I have found low grade fuels turn my engine oil brownish black in short order in addition to allowing the engine to approach its full potential. I used to run E85 in my thirsty old Coyote cause it was cheaper, cleaner & kept my engine & cats cool 9 months of the year.
If I were to show just average mpg without specific resets, I would never see those numbers.
I used to run to Galveston island every year & would average 44.4mpg on the I-10 that I corrected to 41.9
On a recent trip to Tybee Island for the new year, My 25 Jeep Compass returned an average of 38.7 with runs of 44mpg. That was backroads @ lower speed between Tallahassee & Savannah.
Took the interstates on the return trip.
I was too lazy to calculate a correction, so I use the numbers for reference.
My 23 glad averages between 20 & 23mpg when hurriedly running errands in town.
I reset those numbers when taking trips so they don't get included in the mix.
I used to work with some crazy hypermilers that would go to dangerous lengths to reach 100 mpg.
I like my comforts. & won't entertain some of their efforts, but I DO like passing gas.............................................................................................stations

 

[Sw00per]

Any updates on the experiences and impressions running the Valvoline RP? Curious if making the switch from Pennz Plat next oil change worth it.

I have had three oil changes since the first post. My interval is between 3 and 4K. I think only time will tell and recently even though I have though about 5w30... I decided to stick with the factory spec and change it as mention above with with the exception of doing an oil change after every long trip the next of which is EJS.

 

[Mr Miami]

once the engine is warmed, there's no difference between 5w and 0w. That's only applicable in cold temperatures. So if you could do (in theory) a 5w20 and a 0w20, the differences disappear once the oil is no longer cold.

0w only matters while it's cold, not at operating temperatures.

MPG differences can be totally related to the fuel and cold air. I lost 2 mpg once the temperatures stayed below 20 degrees - cold dense air, more drag. I went from 16 down to 14 - SAME OIL, but mostly due to cold AIR.
Fuel will drop your mpg once you get to a certain date - mpg drops with winter blend fuel.
So you get a double-whammy in the winter - the cold dense air drag, the drag of heavier ATF in cold temps, the lower mpg due to the winter blend fuels.............. can't blame it all on oil. Very not scientific.

I don't mean to question your comment on engine efficiency with cold air but there is truly a difference. An engine, and let me use that word again, an engine, will be more efficient and produce more power with colder, denser air since there is a higher percentage of oxygen in dense air.

When it comes to driving, the same is true, the engine will be more efficient with cold air (once the engine gets up to operating temperature). All things being equal, that should equate to higher MPG's. But that, as you point out, is not the case. When the vehicle is moving through cold, denser air, the vehicle obviously is moving against the dense air and more friction is created, making it more difficult for the vehicle to move forward. So to offset that greater force against the vehicle, the engine must run faster or harder to offset the losses. These losses tend to more than offset the greater efficiency of the engine at highway speeds so one loses MPG as you mentioned.

A lot of physics going on here even before we throw in the losses in cold weather due to warming the engine and the overall changes in viscosities.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I don't mean to question your comment on engine efficiency with cold air but there is truly a difference. An engine, and let me use that word again, an engine, will be more efficient and produce more power with colder, denser air since there is a higher percentage of oxygen in dense air.

When it comes to driving, the same is true, the engine will be more efficient with cold air (once the engine gets up to operating temperature). All things being equal, that should equate to higher MPG's. But that, as you point out, is not the case. When the vehicle is moving through cold, denser air, the vehicle obviously is moving against the dense air and more friction is created, making it more difficult for the vehicle to move forward. So to offset that greater force against the vehicle, the engine must run faster or harder to offset the losses. These losses tend to more than offset the greater efficiency of the engine at highway speeds so one loses MPG as you mentioned.

A lot of physics going on here even before we throw in the losses in cold weather due to warming the engine and the overall changes in viscosities.

And in our case, the PCM compensates. As a person who has spent time at the drag strip and worked with performance cars, I know very well about the impact of cold air on engines, especially carbureted engines. Not as much with ours. You're explaining things I went to school for and modified my cars for in the past.
You just don't gain so much today as in the past.

 

[Mr Miami]

And in our case, the PCM compensates. As a person who has spent time at the drag strip and worked with performance cars, I know very well about the impact of cold air on engines, especially carbureted engines. Not as much with ours. You're explaining things I went to school for and modified my cars for in the past.
You just don't gain so much today as in the past.

I get it. Thanks for the explanation.

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