Tuning for all 2020-2026 Gladiator 3.6 Models

[bmpcamry09]

Ross (Tuner) may contact you, what's involved in getting the gear to unlock the ECU out of interest?

I don’t know, I don’t do the ECU unlocking part, my part is the calibration/tune itself and then datalog review to make sure your Jeep is running as good as it can.

In the USA, there are many companies that support unlocking GPEC2A. Not sure about NZ. GPEC2A ECU has side mounted connectors for reference.

HP Tuners/VCM is the only company that can unlock the GPEC5 ECU. If your ECU has connectors on top, then it’s a GPEC5.

Regardless of GPEC2 or 5, I strongly recommend sending ECU straight to HP Tuners/VCM for the unlocking. They stand behind their product.

Once you have your unlocked ECU and bypass cable installed in your vehicle, that is when you (or your tuner) will use the MPVI3 or MPVI4 to send me a read and I build your tune for you from that read.

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[Copracer288]

................ In some ways especially on 87 octane tunes they can be safer than factory because factory spark timing is too aggressive for 87 octane.............

Are you seeing timing being pulled on a stock setup because of this? If so, would it be beneficial to run higher octane stock?

 

[bmpcamry09]

Are you seeing timing being pulled on a stock setup because of this? If so, would it be beneficial to run higher octane stock?

Yes and yes. On a WOT run I often see 3-8 degrees of timing being pulled with 87 in the tank. The hotter the weather and more miles and carbon buildup the engine has, the worse it is. Even my brand new jeep with 500 miles on it when I did tube development would pull 1-2 at WOT on 87 octane. Part throttle has knock retard quite a bit in hot weather too on 87.

Because of fuel prices, I currently run 87, but I’m custom tuned for it and I don’t have any timing getting pulled at all so power is great.

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

Yes and yes. On a WOT run I often see 3-8 degrees of timing being pulled with 87 in the tank. The hotter the weather and more miles and carbon buildup the engine has, the worse it is. Even my brand new jeep with 500 miles on it when I did tube development would pull 1-2 at WOT on 87 octane. Part throttle has knock retard quite a bit in hot weather too on 87.

Because of fuel prices, I currently run 87, but I’m custom tuned for it and I don’t have any timing getting pulled at all so power is great.

Spread the word brotha! OEM tuning is EPA compliant, if not CARB compliant. AKA the ECM allows the engine to operate at the bare minimum without self-destructing, usually.

If you new how OEM FI (Turbo/Supercharged) vehicles are tuned from the factory, you'd shit a gold brick. Air/Fuel Ratios IN BOOST are 17:1 or LEANER, while running 10psi or more and under load. If that isn't a recipe for detonation, idk what is. This is why unless you live in a Nazi state, tuning a stock vehicle is 9/10x safer when done correctly.

 

[bmpcamry09]

Spread the word brotha! OEM tuning is EPA compliant, if not CARB compliant. AKA the ECM allows the engine to operate at the bare minimum without self-destructing, usually.

If you new how OEM FI (Turbo/Supercharged) vehicles are tuned from the factory, you'd shit a gold brick. Air/Fuel Ratios IN BOOST are 17:1 or LEANER, while running 10psi or more and under load. If that isn't a recipe for detonation, idk what is. This is why unless you live in a Nazi state, tuning a stock vehicle is 9/10x safer when done correctly.

Yeah. Most modern cars are riding that knock sensor hard.

But 17:1? I’ve never seen a tune making something leaner than 14.1/14.7 or 1.0 Lambda on anything, especially under 10 PSI of boost. Most tuning these days based on Lambda now too and that would be like 1.16 lambda which would be crazy lean.

I’ve tuned far more turbo vehicles than Jeeps actually. I’ve been doing Ford Ecoboost for the past 3 years or so, mostly 2.7 and 3.5 trucks and Expeditions, but a few 2.3 Mustangs and 3.0 Explorers/Aviators along the way too but I’ve never seen a company run that lean especially under boost.Ford goes as rich as .68 Lambda or 10.0 AFR for catalytic cool down under boost, and usually .75 lambda or 10.9 ish. So I can’t wrap my head around what you’re saying.

Just curious where you’ve seen that or where you’re getting your data. I’m all for sharing information and would love to see those files.

EDIT: I see your in Austria. Maybe they do shit ass backwards there

 

[Copracer288]

So, on a stock Jeep, would 89 be sufficient or would premium be beneficial?

I'm going to be towing with the Gladiator a bunch this summer and will take all the help I can get until I go the tuned route.

 

[bmpcamry09]

So, on a stock Jeep, would 89 be sufficient or would premium be beneficial?

Stock with no tuning 89 will help quite a bit versus 87. Yes. 91-93 will keep any timing from being pulled. You’ll still see a tad of knock retard with 89 most likely. By tad I mean maybe 1-2 degrees

If tuned, we can make 87 safer than stock while still shifting torque curve to the left. It’s all about controlling cylinder pressure. Allowing intake cam to advance for more air intake but pulling back spark timing a little bit so it all plays nice.

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

Yeah. Most modern cars are riding that knock sensor hard.

But 17:1? I’ve never seen a tune making something leaner than 14.1/14.7 or 1.0 Lambda on anything, especially under 10 PSI of boost. Most tuning these days based on Lambda now too and that would be like 1.16 lambda which would be crazy lean.

I’ve tuned far more turbo vehicles than Jeeps actually. I’ve been doing Ford Ecoboost for the past 3 years or so, mostly 2.7 and 3.5 trucks and Expeditions, but a few 2.3 Mustangs and 3.0 Explorers/Aviators along the way too but I’ve never seen a company run that lean especially under boost.Ford goes as rich as .68 Lambda or 10.0 AFR for catalytic cool down under boost, and usually .75 lambda or 10.9 ish. So I can’t wrap my head around what you’re saying.

Just curious where you’ve seen that or where you’re getting your data. I’m all for sharing information and would love to see those files.

EDIT: I see your in Austria. Maybe they do shit ass backwards there

I come from the Subaru world, where they change things every 2 years or less sometimes. The 2008 STi had the ringland failures due to factory tuning ultimately, add in lower quality fuels (ACN) and high heat. But generally if you ran a "stage 1" tune on a stock car (and wrx) they not only ran safer (even OTS mapping) but was more fun to drive too.

Also I don't live in Austria, it IS a beautiful country to visit though! I'm just keeping the meme alive since they officially changed the town's name recently.

Also when I first had my rally engine built, the tuner (not naming names) agreed to a "save basemap that will take me 2k miles without issue" because I was moving and dailying the vehicle at the time. It was not SAFE, nor reliable. Instead it was a full race map minus working launch control and rolling anti-lag.
- Been running my own map ever since without issues. I tune with the stock ECU and an AEM UEGO wideband gauge. 30k+ ABUSED miles and doesn't knock, burn a drop of oil, just goes when I ask it.
- I also got into powersports tuning a couple years ago with my 450 and 230 (Delphi ECU, Denso fuel injectors and MAP, and a no-name o2 sensor).

 

[DronePilot]

I’ve a question I’m interested in doing this tuning with you (BMP) but as I understand I need a MPVI4 and credits (already have the security gateway from my tazer mini) I’m planning to buy the 6 credits deal but i’m confused on which credits I need the universal or a Brand specific credit?

 

[bmpcamry09]

I’ve a question I’m interested in doing this tuning with you (BMP) but as I understand I need a MPVI4 and credits (already have the security gateway from my tazer mini) I’m planning to buy the 6 credits deal but i’m confused on which credits I need the universal or a Brand specific credit?

Universal is what you need

 

[DronePilot]

Universal is what you need

So to understand the process well I buy the (1) MPVI4, the credits then I will send my PCM to HP Tuners to get unlocked then after I get the PCM back that’s when you start the tuning process with my Jeep. Besides that my laptop is an apple MacBook would that be okay or I’ll need an android tablet?

 

[bmpcamry09]

So to understand the process well I buy the (1) MPVI4, the credits then I will send my PCM to HP Tuners to get unlocked then after I get the PCM back that’s when you start the tuning process with my Jeep. Besides that my laptop is an apple MacBook would that be okay or I’ll need an android tablet?

Yes, but you’ll need windows PC. Some of my customers have had success using a windows emulator on their Mac, but I have no idea how that works as everything I have is windows.

 

[DronePilot]

Yes, but you’ll need windows PC. Some of my customers have had success using a windows emulator on their Mac, but I have no idea how that works as everything I have is windows.

. Thanks for the quick response, I guess I’ll be buying a Windows PC.

 

[bmpcamry09]

. Thanks for the quick response, I guess I’ll be buying a Windows PC.

You won’t be the first Mac guy who got one just for this really any basic one should work. Even used on Marketplace

 

[bmpcamry09]

Updated tuning guide attached to the 1st post of this thread, now includes a summary of what I change in every tune, plus a nice price breakdown for all models and configurations.

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