Thanks for sharing. On my JL I just cut up the transition piece...leaving the part that covered the fog lights (used a Dremel per a video on the JL board). Worked great.
I happened to see this on you tube and thought I'd share.![]()
I liked your videos about max towing and payload rating as well. So doesn’t the 35” tires effect the tow rating due to gearing change?That's my JT in the video and I can tell you that the driving/handling wasn't impacted at all. I didn't even have to adjust the steering linkage to center the steering wheel. With the 2.5" version of the kit, you will need to adjust your steering wheel.
In practicality, yes. It would have some effect on the tow rating. There would be some complicated math involved to determine exactly how much tow rating is lost. Interestingly, the 35s are exactly 9% taller than the stock tires. And if you subtract 9% from 4.10 you get 3.73. So these tires effectively would be similar to running stock tires on 3.73 axle gears; i.e., like the Overland or non-Max Tow Sport.I liked your videos about max towing and payload rating as well. So doesn’t the 35” tires effect the tow rating due to gearing change?
Recall he weighed the stock wheels & tires before/after, technically you would want to subtract that extra weight from the 7,650# (as well as passengers, payload, etc)I liked your videos about max towing and payload rating as well. So doesn’t the 35” tires effect the tow rating due to gearing change?
Yep. The flip side of that is that the stock tires are P-rated and my 35s are LT-D rated. So, the sidewalls are much more firm and up to the task of hauling/towing. Less deflection and more stability. Also, they can handle heat build-up better. So these safety points counter-act a little bit of the drawbacks due to size.Recall he weighed the stock wheels & tires before/after, technically you would want to subtract that extra weight from the 7,650# (as well as passengers, payload, etc)
Also those taller tires will handle a load differently than the shorter stock tires, the closer to capacity you get, the more you will likely feel that extra sidewall rubber have some give to it (less resistant to sway). Not the end of the world, just something to be aware of-
Yes, the spacers I used made no difference in how the tires fit. I did it just to remove exactly 1/2 of the factory rake to make the truck look better. I purposefully left the other 1/2 of factory rake so the truck would sit level with a load in the bed.So you just installed the 3/4” spacer on front as a sort of ‘level’? I was going to go with the 1.5” level from alloy USA. I’ve been worried he 2.5 would be too much. Also I’m going with 295/70r18 which measure at 34.25 so I’ll likely not need the extra clearance (the level is mostly for cosmetics to me).
I can tell you from the perspective of working on similar matters, any attorney worth his salt is going to argue the tires played a role and bring in an expert witness who will say it contributed to the crash/damage/injury. Then your insurance doesnt cover the mod because you didnt tell them or didnt know it was excluded from your policy. And like all rare instances, everyone thinks it’s not going to happen to them until it does. Had my boss’s client lose out on $75k in coverage because they didnt read their coverage contract. Saw another case where the modification to the vehicle caused the jury to award more damages. It is rare but when it happens it sucks big time for the driverI'm not sure if the tires would come into play or not. But, that would be such a rare occurrence that it'll likely never even come up as an issue.