And again more tire questions - Overland

[ShadowsPapa]

Check for JT take-offs,those who swapped out their wheels and tires and have a steel spare with the AT’s mounted that no one else wants. Buy 5 of those - should be available cheap - you’ll have the 5 tire rotation you need and you can swap out those stock overland street tires for summer only use.

Funny thing - I was also thinking of using the Overland stock for good weather used, highway trips, etc.

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[Donkey Fluffer]

I have a Rubicon JT, but my wife has a Sahara JL, which comes with the same size wheels as your Overland.

She too likes her stock 18"wheels. I bought her 5 of the Load Range C Nitto Terra Grappler G2 in 295/70/18 116S from Tirebuyer for $1427.37, they shipped free to the tire installer of my choice, who put them on her wheels, transferred the TPMS sensors, and did an alignment for $204.

Why the C range? Lighter and better ride. I put C Range 315/70/17 KO2's on my JT because I have no plans to habitually max out my payload or tow 7000 lbs, so saw no need for E's on her Wrangler.
There is no load range C 18" KO2 in a so-called 35", so we went with the Nitto's. Her MPG has only dropped 1she says, I haven't had a chance to confirm. It's only 34.29" so you should have no rubbing even without a lift or spacers on your Overland, though we did both. Those Nitto's are good for a 7.5" wide rim.

I'm selling the original very low mileage takeoff Bridgestone Dueler AT's for $200 which will recoup some of that money.

I then got a Procal Snap and recalibrated her speedo.

She's happy and I think it was a bargain deal. We both prefer the stock wheels.

Anyways, just food for thought.

 

[RH 67]

We had some of the snow and ice here - but it didn't last too long. I don't think we, in our area, got near as much either.
Well there's another mention of Falken tire.
What's the stock Overland tire - the 255/70R18 - isn't that close to 33 or is that more 32"?
Not real interested in the beadlock look in my case - it's rugged looking but I'm not thinking that level unless there's a better deal that makes them a better choice price-wise.

I don't recall what the offset is of the stock Overland 18" wheel - I don't want to change scrub angle much. Too much positive is a bigger load in the steering parts and tends to jack up the corner on turns. Too much positive, as happens when wheels are moved out, if you lose a front brake the steering wheel can be ripped right out of your hand under heavy braking (as with some split brake systems where they are split diagonally) So I want to keep it close to factory. Don't want negative scrub either although that's good if you have a flat and need to maintain control at speed.

Yeah and more aggressive tire than stock Overland will have a different sound level. Can't avoid it - there will be SOME change, just don't want a radical change. I can here some trucks coming down our road literally a full half mile away (and my hearing sucks)

Thanks for input.

By the way - did you level your JT? Looks level........ Overland generally has quite a rake.

Stock wheels are +44.

 

[1proudpapa]

We had some of the snow and ice here - but it didn't last too long. I don't think we, in our area, got near as much either.
Well there's another mention of Falken tire.
What's the stock Overland tire - the 255/70R18 - isn't that close to 33 or is that more 32"?
Not real interested in the beadlock look in my case - it's rugged looking but I'm not thinking that level unless there's a better deal that makes them a better choice price-wise.

I don't recall what the offset is of the stock Overland 18" wheel - I don't want to change scrub angle much. Too much positive is a bigger load in the steering parts and tends to jack up the corner on turns. Too much positive, as happens when wheels are moved out, if you lose a front brake the steering wheel can be ripped right out of your hand under heavy braking (as with some split brake systems where they are split diagonally) So I want to keep it close to factory. Don't want negative scrub either although that's good if you have a flat and need to maintain control at speed.

Yeah and more aggressive tire than stock Overland will have a different sound level. Can't avoid it - there will be SOME change, just don't want a radical change. I can here some trucks coming down our road literally a full half mile away (and my hearing sucks)

Thanks for input.

By the way - did you level your JT? Looks level........ Overland generally has quite a rake.

The stock wheels are a +44 I believe. I didn't want negative offset myself because on the stress o bearings and such . That said With the new wheels being 9 wide and +12 there is only 1/2 difference in the push off center from stock. I used a offset and tire size calculator that I found online to establish this. Yes the stock tire is a 32. The 33 falken actually measures about 32.6 I believe. As far as rims. If you don't like the beadlock look look at those vision overland wheels. They are similar but no beadlock.

Also, yes I did a 1 inch level kit up front by tereflex to take out most of the rake

 

[1proudpapa]

I should mention that a 33 tire will have a stiffer sidewall to maintain tire shape. My ride is more stiff than the h/t tire and I even went with the p series a/t tire for a better ride. I am changing over to falken monotube shocks but haven't installed them yet.

Also, if you like the look of the stock wheels, just do the 33 tire .. Here's a Pic of one I found, not sure on what size tire it is either. It has a lift, obviously but you get the idea

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[ShadowsPapa]

I asked the dealer where I bought my JT Overland about "take-offs" as far as wheels and tires. He said they don't do that - they won't sell anything like that because they won't sell used wheels and tires. Really, that's interesting as their sister corporate location said they modify Wranglers and Gladiators now and then with different wheels, tires, lifts and so on - they had nothing as they generally use the take-off stuff internally (yeah, on what??)
Anyway the dealer I talked to this week - where I bought mine, suggested I ask the tire dealer that they send stuff to when they need wheels or tires swapped or lift kits installed (wow, they don't even do that?)
So I contacted that tire dealer - they have multiple locations around here and their FB page indicated they Jeep stuff.
This is the response I got from them - and it sort of confused me a bit as the JT never came with these tires - I bet they swapped wheels and put tires on 'em - Rubicon never came with Toyo tires, did they??
Price is a lot higher than what forum members have been selling their JT Rubicon "take-offs" for.
I'm trying to picture what wheels those may be - but the tires have to be something they put on.

PS - mega-thanks for the great responses on this one so far. One of my major issues is decisions - it's a medical issue I've dealt with forever. I go crazy overkill on information, every single little detail down to the last degree.

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Hello. I actually do have a set of Gladiator Rubicon takeoffs at my other location
They are the Gray ones with the Toyo All terrain tires which are MUCH better in inclimate weather.
Stop over and take a look at them M-F 8:00-5:30, 9-1 Saturday. They are $1600 for the set.
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[Cleankat]

33's look wimpy, but to each their own. You can easily fit the equivalent of a 35 on with zero mods. I even think these look small but they ride great.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

33's look wimpy, but to each their own. You can easily fit the equivalent of a 35 on with zero mods. I even think these look small but they ride great.

Yours sure looks like it's modified - there's no rake like Overlands have - they have a massive rake. Yours appears level.

Who said the Toyo tires he mentioned are 33"? Since the JT as far as I know never came with those, I really don't know what size they are.

At any rate, 33s are bigger than the 32s on it and would be a touch wider depending........ so I am not sure how they would they look wimpy - unless the stock tires do? Almost anything else would be bigger.
My goal isn't to make it look more like a macho rock crawling monster (like some need).
It's function, towing, using it like a truck and in our bad weather. I'd not mind larger tires - but I don't want to lose the ability to get the decent MPG and tow my car hauler.

If I go too large, I lose towing ability, it struggles more and I lose the MPG.
These Overlands have a gear ratio on the edge of too high as it is for my liking, and adding taller tires means pulling a load will see the transmission hunting a lot or staying in a lower gear under 8th. My silverado was always downshifting to make the 3 and 4 degree grades here with my trailer.
I am really curious why you think I should go 35 and make it even a higher end "Ratio" and have it struggle towing a trailer?

 

[Cleankat]

Yours sure looks like it's modified - there's no rake like Overlands have - they have a massive rake. Yours appears level.

Who said the Toyo tires he mentioned are 33"? Since the JT as far as I know never came with those, I really don't know what size they are.

At any rate, 33s are bigger than the 32s on it and would be a touch wider depending........ so I am not sure how they would they look wimpy - unless the stock tires do? Almost anything else would be bigger.
My goal isn't to make it look more like a macho rock crawling monster (like some need).
It's function, towing, using it like a truck and in our bad weather. I'd not mind larger tires - but I don't want to lose the ability to get the decent MPG and tow my car hauler.

If I go too large, I lose towing ability, it struggles more and I lose the MPG.
These Overlands have a gear ratio on the edge of too high as it is for my liking, and adding taller tires means pulling a load will see the transmission hunting a lot or staying in a lower gear under 8th. My silverado was always downshifting to make the 3 and 4 degree grades here with my trailer.
I am really curious why you think I should go 35 and make it even a higher end "Ratio" and have it struggle towing a trailer?

My suspension is stock overland, no mods besides the tires.

My opinion on 33's is purely cosmetic. I don't tow anything with this vehicle and never plan to, nor do I count gas mileage, if I cared about MPG I wouldn't have gotten this. If you want functionality for things like above, 33's (or stock) is clearly what you're looking for.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

My suspension is stock overland, no mods besides the tires.

My opinion on 33's is purely cosmetic. I don't tow anything with this vehicle and never plan to, nor do I count gas mileage, if I cared about MPG I wouldn't have gotten this. If you want functionality for things like above, 33's (or stock) is clearly what you're looking for.

Well likely you missed the original post where I laid out I was looking for grip in snow, ice, better traction while maintaining the ability to tow my car hauler.
33" would be a bit taller than what's there, and that would be ok - a tad wider, yeah, ok, but I TOW and I'll be pushing an Overland as it is with that high gear ratio.
This thing is horrible on slippery roads and that's my concern.

Then I came back asking about a message I got from a dealer - 1600 seems high to me compared to the sales in the forum, and I was wondering about the Toyo tires because as far as I know, the JT never came with those. Will have to figure out which the "Gray wheels" are - probably the base Rubicon JT.

 

[jrf]

Seemed expensive to me, 2300 for a package deal. 5 wheels, 5 tires. Duratrac.

I'll make you a much better deal on a set of practically brand new Falken ATs with the Gladiator LE wheels...only caveat is that the spare does NOT come with a wheel. But I do have all 5 tires.

Back to the post...if I were you...I'd keep the salt off the JT and run the WJ in the winter. Honestly the full time 4wd systems are so much better for the no-brainer in the snow. The old ZJ I had the 242(I think) tcase that had the 2wd/full time 4/part time 4/n/4-lo options. That thing was PERFECT. When it was a snowy day just put it in full time before I left the house...some wet roads, some dry, some icy, some snowy...you know the drill.

Keep the JT from rusting sooner...

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I'll make you a much better deal on a set of practically brand new Falken ATs with the Gladiator LE wheels...only caveat is that the spare does NOT come with a wheel. But I do have all 5 tires.

Back to the post...if I were you...I'd keep the salt off the JT and run the WJ in the winter. Honestly the full time 4wd systems are so much better for the no-brainer in the snow. The old ZJ I had the 242(I think) tcase that had the 2wd/full time 4/part time 4/n/4-lo options. That thing was PERFECT. When it was a snowy day just put it in full time before I left the house...some wet roads, some dry, some icy, some snowy...you know the drill.

Keep the JT from rusting sooner...

Don't want either to rust. The WJ unfortunately was never undercoated. Too bad, the bare floor on the bottom side is showing surface rust and the floor panel seams have rust starting between the panels. I got the rocker panels replaced - they were starting to bubble and show rust and one had a spot at the bottom pinch weld where they obviously went over something high. So it has new rocker panels and I need to clean up the bottom side, treat the rust and undercoat it.

A good deal on a set in PA would have to be really cheap as it would cost me over 2 days driving, gas and tolls. Last time I drove to Reading, PA to pick up a free car it cost me over $700 because of the tolls and time in a hotel, etc. The free car cost me hundreds.
That's the bummer to all this - you don't find this stuff in Iowa, it's hours or days away. I appreciate that I could get a great deal on "take-offs", tires/wheels and even suspension parts, but getting them to Iowa - that's what stinks. The distance.

Anyway, more info on the tires and wheels at a local tire store (not a discount tire place for sure - they sell higher end stuff)
They are indeed Rubicon take-off wheels. But the tires are not Jeep issue - they are:

Toyo A/T Open country xtreme
Roughly a 3100 pound load rating according to them looking it up.
Size is LT305/70R17
10" wide tread x about 32.5" height by tape measure - HOWEVER, the charts and their marketing info says they are 33.9" - I used my pocket tape measure and got my measurement but maybe the tires were UNDER-inflated when they tried one?
I had them try one of the wheel/tires on the left front to see as they questioned fit. It seemed to fit and clear on turns although it was admittedly close to filling that wheel well area.
I measured the "tallness" of the tire on my JT and from floor to top of tire at the sidewall to tread area - the edge of the tread - it measured only 32.5" - not really taller than what's on my truck now when you measure ground to top of tire. I was rather surprised as mine measure about 32 from ground to top and these were 32.5 ground to top.
The face of the tread is 10" while my stock tires are 8" across, edge of tread to edge of tread. So these are 2" wider, with the wheel offset being the same that should mean 1" in and 1" out, is that not correct? The offset cast into both wheels is something like +44.45 I believe.

These are only rated S+M so aren't the three peak mountain/snowflake rating, simply basic snow and mud tires.

They said $1500 for all 4.

I asked about Falken tires for my current wheels - $825 but that isn't the ideal direction although I'm not sure what is the ideal now. No matter what I'd have an unmatched spare and have to deal with getting a spare so I'd really have to buy 5 tires. (and a wheel if I went 17"

Here's what they have in the store - ready to go -

 

[RH 67]

Don't want either to rust. The WJ unfortunately was never undercoated. Too bad, the bare floor on the bottom side is showing surface rust and the floor panel seams have rust starting between the panels. I got the rocker panels replaced - they were starting to bubble and show rust and one had a spot at the bottom pinch weld where they obviously went over something high. So it has new rocker panels and I need to clean up the bottom side, treat the rust and undercoat it.

A good deal on a set in PA would have to be really cheap as it would cost me over 2 days driving, gas and tolls. Last time I drove to Reading, PA to pick up a free car it cost me over $700 because of the tolls and time in a hotel, etc. The free car cost me hundreds.
That's the bummer to all this - you don't find this stuff in Iowa, it's hours or days away. I appreciate that I could get a great deal on "take-offs", tires/wheels and even suspension parts, but getting them to Iowa - that's what stinks. The distance.

Anyway, more info on the tires and wheels at a local tire store (not a discount tire place for sure - they sell higher end stuff)
They are indeed Rubicon take-off wheels. But the tires are not Jeep issue - they are:

Toyo A/T Open country xtreme
Roughly a 3100 pound load rating according to them looking it up.
Size is LT305/70R17
10" wide tread x about 32.5" height by tape measure
I had them try one of the wheel/tires on the left front to see as they questioned fit. It seemed to fit and clear on turns although it was admittedly close to filling that wheel well area.
I measured the "tallness" of the tire on my JT and from floor to top of tire at the sidewall to tread area - the edge of the tread - it measured only 32.5" - not really taller than what's on my truck now when you measure ground to top of tire. I was rather surprised as mine measure about 32 from ground to top and these were 32.5 ground to top.
The face of the tread is 10" while my stock tires are 8" across, edge of tread to edge of tread. So these are 2" wider, with the wheel offset being the same that should mean 1" in and 1" out, is that not correct? The offset cast into both wheels is something like +44.45 I believe.

These are only rated S+M so aren't the three peak mountain/snowflake rating, simply basic snow and mud tires.

They said $1500 for all 4.

I asked about Falken tires for my current wheels - $825 but that isn't the ideal direction although I'm not sure what is the ideal now. No matter what I'd have an unmatched spare and have to deal with getting a spare so I'd really have to buy 5 tires. (and a wheel if I went 17"

Here's what they have in the store - ready to go -

Once again your location is killing you. I have the same wheels with Falken MT`s off my Rubicon and i`m trying to get $800 and that includes the spare and TMPS.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Once again your location is killing you. I have the same wheels with Falken MT`s off my Rubicon and i`m trying to get $800 and that includes the spare and TMPS.

I agree Dave. Absolutely. I'd jump at your price if I could get there and back in a day (leave here at 5am and get back by 10pm would even be good).
Your wheels alone should be worth that, and the tires? what, 200+ a pop typical price - yours are a great deal.
Someone should buy those just to have, or buy them, split the set for someone looking for a matching wheel and tire for a spare to rotate in.

 

[Gatorized]

Once again your location is killing you. I have the same wheels with Falken MT`s off my Rubicon and i`m trying to get $800 and that includes the spare and TMPS.

I don’t know what the rating is on the M/Ts, but the A/Ts are snow rated.

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