Torque specs? - sway bar links, track bar, shocks

[ShadowsPapa]

I did a search - found the lug nut torque spec thanks to whoever shared that months ago, but 15 minutes of searching have come up empty for the correct torque specs for track bar (especially axle end), sway bar links, and shocks.
After the spring and shock swap, I want to go back to factory spec. I have things to what is typical and usual for the trucks and cars I've worked on - and the bolt sizes, but I want to be sure on a truck not even 1 year old yet.
So - anyone willing to share correct proper torque specs for steering and suspension parts???????

Sponsored

 

[PyrPatriot]

I have that information from the factory service manual. I think I have it on my phone but if not will post here later when I get to my computer. Reply and tag me in a few hours if I haven't done it yet so I see the reminder

 

[RealMcCoy]

I did a search - found the lug nut torque spec thanks to whoever shared that months ago, but 15 minutes of searching have come up empty for the correct torque specs for track bar (especially axle end), sway bar links, and shocks.
After the spring and shock swap, I want to go back to factory spec. I have things to what is typical and usual for the trucks and cars I've worked on - and the bolt sizes, but I want to be sure on a truck not even 1 year old yet.
So - anyone willing to share correct proper torque specs for steering and suspension parts???????

Not sure if this is what you want, but I only use it as a guide. I have the 2" mopar lift if you like to know.
Hope this will help.

 

[PyrPatriot]

Yep, it was on my phone for when I eventually will disconnect my sway bar links.

PM me if the specs you need are not here

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Thanks to both. Between the two I should have everything.
I didn't have to loosen or remove control arms at all.
It was shocks, track bar at axles, sway bar links and brake hose bracket to lower control arms on the front end.

At this point I've printed these and will head back out to check myself using these.
If I need more, I'll be back, but so far, looks like ya'll got me covered - and so quickly too - appreciate that as this thing has become my daily driver more than other stuff. I guess I have the Eagle (if the weather is good) or the WJ if I remember to put gas in it. But time to put tools and torque wrenches away and clean things up.
I know why the boss always included putting tools away and cleaning up with our time on a job.
But then my tools and jacks are 220 feet away in my shop, I did this in my non-AC garage.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Took three torque wrenches up to the garage and checked everything I had loose.
Track bar at axle end - I got 3-4 degrees turn before my wrench clicked on the specs in the chart so I was within a couple foot/lbs or so. I was very close on that one.
Sway bar link at axle - was good, no change.
Shock upper and lower - uppers fine, was shy about 10-15 ft/lbs. I had by hand tightened them yesterday to 60-65 (not using a wrench, using experience), I used the 75 spec on the chart today.
Brake hose bracket to lower control arm - was good on that - both sides checked out.
Same for rear - was good save for the shock lowers. I guess after having done so many on cars with the smaller bolts, that's what I was used to.

Then I checked the wheels - I set the torque wrench to 130 ft/lbs like the spec says. Now keep in mind I tightened those like I usually do on my trucks, using my 1/2" drive breaker bar which is about 3" shorter than my torque wrenches.
My torque wrench clicked before the nuts moved. I actually had them at 130+ already just using my breaker bar - I tightened them like I always do my trucks and was basically at the 130 spec. Not a one of the 20 moved at all before the wrench clicked. And they were all pretty even.
So I'm good to go on the torques according to the charts you two shared.

Thanks again.

 

[PyrPatriot]

My FSM is 15k pages long at least. If there is a spec, be it torque, fluid, voltage, resistance, or calibration for any JT trim aside from Mojave or deisel, I have it. I may not have the parts numbers as easily available but I have a list of those also with accompanying diagrams for the Sport and Rubicon

 

[j.o.y.ride]

Ok so here is what my mechanic told me. The guy has been racing King of the Hammers in trucks he built for years, and finished 5th this year.

He said you're f*** fooling yourself if you think it matters, he gets his 4400 truck as tight as he can on everything, no specs.

Too loose it obviously an issue, but exacting torque specs once you start wrenching and replacing things dont matter. Seems like kits will tell you to do it as a CYA.

German torque wrench it. Gutentight.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Ok so here is what my mechanic told me. The guy has been racing King of the Hammers in trucks he built for years, and finished 5th this year.

He said you're f*** fooling yourself if you think it matters, he gets his 4400 truck as tight as he can on everything, no specs.

Too loose it obviously an issue, but exacting torque specs once you start wrenching and replacing things dont matter. Seems like kits will tell you to do it as a CYA.

German torque wrench it. Gutentight.

Oh, boy - I need to put you in touch with some engineers where tight is measured not with a torque wrench, but by stretch. Your "mechanic" is just damned lucky. That's all. I could show pics of what happens when torque isn't followed, or a bolt or axle over-stretched. Metal reaches a plastic state - and once it reaches a certain state, it never returns. Things break.
Torque matters in engines big time - in fact, the best racers use torque plates when boring and honing because the torque of the bolts holding the head on distort the block - so they use a thick plate and bolt it using the same torque as the head bolts that will be used. It matters, it can be measured and quantified.
Rod bolts will stretch and snap with high RPM if you over-torque them. Under torque and the rod cap doesn't "become one" with the rod. Torque absolutely matters. Front suspension parts - absolutely.
I just hope you don't get into a situation where your no torque matters stretches a bolt beyond it's capabilities and snaps sending you off the road down a cliff.
I've seen axles snap, brake calipers let loose, differentials destroyed, transmissions cracked and parts warped.
I've been a mechanic since the early 1970s and I could write pages about what I've seen when people figure if tight is good a tad more is better, it doesn't matter.
That's the worst advice I've seen in hours.

I need to find the papers I have on bolt stretch and properties. But your mind is made up because a mechanic told you so and he's won contests.....
I'm a mechanic, college trained, worked with engineers, since 1970s - and I have won contests as well - autocross and more. And I say it matters. LOL ;-)

Besides, I asked for specs, not what a shade-tree guy says. Thanks anyway.

 

[RealMcCoy]

Ok so here is what my mechanic told me. The guy has been racing King of the Hammers in trucks he built for years, and finished 5th this year.

He said you're f*** fooling yourself if you think it matters, he gets his 4400 truck as tight as he can on everything, no specs.

Too loose it obviously an issue, but exacting torque specs once you start wrenching and replacing things dont matter. Seems like kits will tell you to do it as a CYA.

German torque wrench it. Gutentight.

Good point reminds me of my Army days as an Engineer. Just tighten to your memory specks and don't snap off the bolt....been there done that when I was younger.

 

[j.o.y.ride]

Good point reminds me of my Army days as an Engineer. Just tighten to your memory specks and don't snap off the bolt....been there done that when I was younger.

Right, we aren't talking about blasting everything with a gun as hard as possible. People aren't stupid.

Great example is wheel lugs. Nobody is torque wrenching those, just get them on good and tight. But, there is a torque spec, just ignored and it's maybe the most important thing to have torque spec on.

 

[PyrPatriot]

Right, we aren't talking about blasting everything with a gun as hard as possible. People aren't stupid.

Great example is wheel lugs. Nobody is torque wrenching those, just get them on good and tight. But, there is a torque spec, just ignored and it's maybe the most important thing to have torque spec on.

I have been on 2 trail rides where the driver had done a tire rotation and didnt tighten to spec, both said they got it "good and tight", and both times there was a wheel/tire in the creek they had to fetch

 

[j.o.y.ride]

I have been on 2 trail rides where the driver had done a tire rotation and didnt tighten to spec, both said they got it "good and tight", and both times there was a wheel/tire in the creek they had to fetch

There's hundreds of millions of wheels in use without exact torque that are not falling off. Maybe even a billion wheels just in the US. Not discounting your 2 but there's a few more that have no issues.

 

[obrianmcc]

I've been looking for the same ... Thx for those who posted up the info

 

[PyrPatriot]

There's hundreds of millions of wheels in use without exact torque that are not falling off. Maybe even a billion wheels just in the US. Not discounting your 2 but there's a few more that have no issues.

Im just saying, doesnt cost anything to take a $20 torque wrench from HF and set it to 130

Sponsored