Odd front sway bar

[victory1724]

Hoping the vast knowledge on the site can help me solve this. I have a 21 High Altitude, first I added a Teraflex 1.5 inch leveling kit. Second I added a RC Arcus bumper and Smittybilt winch. Needless to say I lost level that I got from the Teraflex. So I then took the Teraflex out and installed Icon 2.5” springs, Synergy sector shaft brace and Mopar 2” sway bar end links. The problem is that the end of the sway bar is less than a 1/4” from the spring on the drivers side and about an 1.5” on the passenger side. Track is approximately 1/4” to the drivers side. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again.

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[victory1724]

Hoping the vast knowledge on the site can help me solve this. I have a 21 High Altitude, first I added a Teraflex 1.5 inch leveling kit. Second I added a RC Arcus bumper and Smittybilt winch. Needless to say I lost level that I got from the Teraflex. So I then took the Teraflex out and installed Icon 2.5” springs, Synergy sector shaft brace and Mopar 2” sway bar end links. The problem is that the end of the sway bar is less than a 1/4” from the spring on the drivers side and about an 1.5” on the passenger side. Track is approximately 1/4” to the drivers side. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again.

I also added geometry correction brackets

 

[Renegade]

It’s probably your springs bowing, not a difference in the sway bar/links. Can you post pics?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

You lifted it so the front axle is moved to the driver side a bit. How much depends on the amount of final lift over stock height.

 

[victory1724]

It’s probably your springs bowing, not a difference in the sway bar/links. Can you post pics?

I’ll post a pic this evening. Thanks

 

[Mjolnir]

You lifted it so the front axle is moved to the driver side a bit. How much depends on the amount of final lift over stock height.

This. Adjustable track bar will fix it. But you might need a new one in the rear as well now.

 

[j.o.y.ride]

You lifted it so the front axle is moved to the driver side a bit. How much depends on the amount of final lift over stock height.

Without pics I agree with this as likely cause. Need to install an adjustable front track bar to bring the body back to centered over the axle. Otherwise it's shifted to the side.

 

[victory1724]

It’s probably your springs bowing, not a difference in the sway bar/links. Can you post pics?

drivers side and passenger side

 

[Hootbro]

Looks like you used the factory spring bottom isolators. Aftermarket springs like the Icon need a different bottom isolator like the one Daystar sells. That is what I had to use when I went to some Eibach springs.

https://www.daystarweb.com/product/...s-jeep-wrangler-jl-2018-2020-aftermarket-pair

 

[Renegade]

drivers side and passenger side

Check to make sure both the upper and lower isolator pads are seated properly. Can you post pictures of each, on each side?

 

[DankjeeP]

I also added geometry correction brackets

It looks like the axle is further forward on one side than the other. The correction brackets maybe are not set-up the same on both sides? Either that or the driver side spring is not seated properly as others suggested.

 

[Renegade]

It looks like the axle is further forward on one side than the other. The correction brackets maybe are not set-up the same on both sides? Either that or the driver side spring is not seated properly as others suggested.

I had overlooked the mention of using suspension geometry correction.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Looks like you used the factory spring bottom isolators. Aftermarket springs like the Icon need a different bottom isolator like the one Daystar sells. That is what I had to use when I went to some Eibach springs.

https://www.daystarweb.com/product/...s-jeep-wrangler-jl-2018-2020-aftermarket-pair

OK, let's make this a better day and see if I can learn something - educate me on why different spring isolators are needed.
Assumption 1 is that since you are using springs that are longer - you are lifting the truck STRAIGHT UP from the axle. Assume that no other factors come into play, assume the track bar is adjusted and the axle centered perfectly left to right under the truck. You lift the truck straight up with springs that are simply longer.
Why would different "pads" be needed?
Springs should be straight, truck goes straight up. It's not like one spring is longer than the other and the truck sits at any sort of angle. Isn't it like using a jack with a pad that stays level as it goes up? Nothing tilts or tips, no side forces introduced. If you keep the control arms level and parallel, the axle isn't tipped forward or rearward at the top (caster remains the same) and if the track bar is lengthened you haven't shifted the bottoms of the springs left or right with the axle moving left or right. The top pads remain exactly straight up from the bottom pads - if you draw a line from the center of the bottom pad and the center of the top pad before you change springs, assume that line is perfectly plumb - if all you do is lift straight up, that line should remain plumb - so why are different pads or isolators needed?

 

[Renegade]

OK, let's make this a better day and see if I can learn something - educate me on why different spring isolators are needed.
Assumption 1 is that since you are using springs that are longer - you are lifting the truck STRAIGHT UP from the axle. Assume that no other factors come into play, assume the track bar is adjusted and the axle centered perfectly left to right under the truck. You lift the truck straight up with springs that are simply longer.
Why would different "pads" be needed?
Springs should be straight, truck goes straight up. It's not like one spring is longer than the other and the truck sits at any sort of angle. Isn't it like using a jack with a pad that stays level as it goes up? Nothing tilts or tips, no side forces introduced. If you keep the control arms level and parallel, the axle isn't tipped forward or rearward at the top (caster remains the same) and if the track bar is lengthened you haven't shifted the bottoms of the springs left or right with the axle moving left or right. The top pads remain exactly straight up from the bottom pads - if you draw a line from the center of the bottom pad and the center of the top pad before you change springs, assume that line is perfectly plumb - if all you do is lift straight up, that line should remain plumb - so why are different pads or isolators needed?

Some of the lift springs have shown a tendency to bow, mostly out toward the tires. The factory upper isolators are actually angled to compensate for that tendency. Synergy springs use their own lower isolator to work with how their springs are manufactured at the lower end (flat). Changing the castor of the axle could also cause that if it’s not kept in a reasonable range, but it shouldn’t cause a different response on each side.

 

[Hootbro]

OK, let's make this a better day and see if I can learn something - educate me on why different spring isolators are needed.
Assumption 1 is that since you are using springs that are longer - you are lifting the truck STRAIGHT UP from the axle. Assume that no other factors come into play, assume the track bar is adjusted and the axle centered perfectly left to right under the truck. You lift the truck straight up with springs that are simply longer.
Why would different "pads" be needed?
Springs should be straight, truck goes straight up. It's not like one spring is longer than the other and the truck sits at any sort of angle. Isn't it like using a jack with a pad that stays level as it goes up? Nothing tilts or tips, no side forces introduced. If you keep the control arms level and parallel, the axle isn't tipped forward or rearward at the top (caster remains the same) and if the track bar is lengthened you haven't shifted the bottoms of the springs left or right with the axle moving left or right. The top pads remain exactly straight up from the bottom pads - if you draw a line from the center of the bottom pad and the center of the top pad before you change springs, assume that line is perfectly plumb - if all you do is lift straight up, that line should remain plumb - so why are different pads or isolators needed?

Got me man, I did not engineer the suspension but even MOPAR puts in a different lower spring isolator on their 2" lift kit.

I just remember early on when springs were being offered for the JT by the aftermarket, they also bowed or flex different than the factory springs when sitting in their perch. Even the early MOPAR 2" lifts had a problem and they had to revise their lower isolator.

Aftermarket came out with two different isolators, one with aftermarket springs and one with the MOPAR lift spring.

In a perfect world, it should not matter but there is something different in how the OEM and the MOPAR 2" lift springs are rolled when made than what the aftermarket does.

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