It's not so much the occasional twist that @ShadowsPapa is preaching at, it is the preload on the bushings that gets set when you don't loosen/torque the arms back properly. When offroading, the bushing is naturally working through it's designed range of motion, and returning to a neutral...
You realize on Jeeps like these, there is only one adjustment that can be made with stock control arms for an alignment... setting toe. If you have adjustable control arms, then you can set the castor and the front and rear axle thrust. If Camber is out, you probably need ball joints, or a new...
With all the efficiencies that have been implemented in the past 20 years, plus by lifting and further decreasing the aerodynamic profile of the TJ, I would expect the JT to get more mileage. Yes it is heavier, but supposedly more efficient both mechanically, and aerodynamically than the TJ...
Definitely not... The same at best! my TJ with 3" lift and 33's is getting 17mpg, mixed between city and 75mph hwy. The JT with 35's gets 16mpg in the same driving on the same routes. Biggest thing for me, is the JT has a smoother ride thanks to the longer WB. (Another funny thing, is the TJ...
We have both as well, and both were purchased new by us. My TJ is a '05 X with the 6 speed. 140k miles and still a very strong runner, the ONLY real issue we've had is with the transmission popping out of reverse... fixed that 12 years ago. We just lifted it to run 33's this past fall, and...
I mean, you're not completely wrong though... with a lightweight vehicle like that, those cookie cutters probably still had enough surface area to allow those cars to float on top of the sand
But, protect it from what? Most of the winch is hidden behind the bumper and the winch tray, from both the front and under... If something is going to attack the winch from above, it's taking your grill and radiator out, and more-so with the bar there.
The bars are mostly for adding lights...
I was going to post a link to cat testicle recipes, but yours is probably closer to what he wanted…
hell, I googled it, may as well share… http://kittyrecipes.com/2014/05/cooking-with-mr-kitty/
I have the Hard Rock bumper, but still the same. I modified min a little... eliminated the crash-cans, added D-ring brackets, and gave it a textured paint.
They are a bit different than the JT/JL bumpers.
I think the ability to drive the Jeep completely open more than makes up for that $3k difference... look at the price differential between a convertible and a hardtop of an otherwise same model of a car...
Yes, worked with the engineer… the brackets that hold the over door plastics to the spot cage, were welded wrong. Cut the welds, and made a slot with a bolt through to adjust until it was tight.
what you see there, will not have any bearing on the frame sitting where it should. The bracket...
It stays dry inside, but is loud… that said: the hardtop will be coming off again for the warmer weather, and this will be back on. I really like how it all functions. The biggest improvements I can see for the top, is adjustable brackets to prevent the issue I had with fit, and straps to...
I am considering the JKS lift as well. It is only 2 inch in rear, so it gives a level lift. You should be ok for 37, just may not get all the flex you’ll want/need depending on what you want to do. You will need different backspacing or you’ll rub.
Death wobble doesn’t stop until you are close to stopping, and violently shakes the rig… if you don’t come close to having to change your shorts, it not death wobble.
OP, you need to have the tires checked for balance, they are the cause for a wobble most of the time.
Next would be a dry...
I did both in a stock Overland, and other than the hitch, only had a couple minor undercarriage scrapes…. Choose your lines instead of bashing through, and you’ll be fine.