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Here is mine - tracks straight down the road. Have you rotated your tires?

Bingo... If you don't miss what you don't have, it may not be worth the upgrade.

Each accident my daughters were involved in where they were not at fault, Teslas were the other vehicle and the drivers had state minimum insurance - $25k/$50k policy limits. Our insurance covered everything as we carry much higher limits then subrogated the other insurance company, not the...

After sleeping on this one, my recommendation is to let YOUR insurance handle this one. You pay your deductible and let them deal with the repairs and related issues. Once it's all said and done, your insurance will subrogate the other side, get your deductible back and you'll be made whole...

Looking at a new frame and bed at a minimum which should be sufficient cost to total this one out. Even if they attempt to fix it, there would be tremendous diminished value that it would not make sense to fix it. At least the other party accepted fault, is insured and isn't being difficult...

My desire to go fast was abandoned a long time ago. There's nowhere to LEGALLY go fast in North Texas aside from a drag strip and straight line speed is pointless. My other vehicle is a 2023 Land Rover Discovery Metropolitan with a mildly tuned BMW 3.0 turbo laying down 650 hp. It's fun on...

I painted these panels Hemi orange in my first Gladiator. Love the look.

Found this loose and rattling behind the grab handle. Some electrical tape helped to quiet it down. Now to tackle the vibrating hard top above my head.

All good. I’m a retired heavy diesel technician so I just shake my head.

My post was what my service advisor told me. Load of BS but CYA.

I've got a 2023 Rubicon. Only options I didn't select were blind spot monitoring, ACC and AUX switches. I'll be adding the AUX switches with factory parts for about $400. Blind Spot Monitoring can be added for about $800 with the Tazer. I have no interest in Adaptive Cruise Control.

Check your CCV hoses and make sure everything is hooked back up. I’d bet someone left something unplugged..

Why would the mechanic need the assistance of an engineer to replace the rear main or oil pan gasket?

Has anyone had what sounds like a plastic on metal rattle in this area and if so what was loose? So far, I’ve checked the windshield bolts, all trim screws, grab handle bolts, sun visors and plastic headliner and all are secure. I’ve not ruled out loose wires but not much is loose behind here...

Road rage wasn't a thing 20+ years ago. Sure, there were idiots that got hot on the road but not to the extend now. Pack enough people into any area and tempers get short and emotions run high. This used to be called the prison mentality until it wasn't PC to call it that. Now it's called...

I bought the steel bumper... I can install a ball and tow with it, no? /sarcasm

Unpopular opinion... there will be no hardware fix. ALL of the recent EcoDiesel failures and subsequent repairs have been performed with the same fuel pump that failed using one of these part numbers - 68148206AA, 68211262AA, 68211268AA, 68211269AA, 68501449AA or 68631088AA. All these...

I’m glad you’re back up and running! What concerns me is the HPFP they installed is the same part number that failed on the first place.

No issues with mine when I had it. Diesel‘s need heat for efficiency and the EPA loves them some efficiency all else be damned. The first thing I did when I got mine was remove the check valve in the oil cooler allowing the oil to flow through without hitting the 235-240 degree mark. Hot oil...

My Rubicon came with the leather seats and after about 15 minutes I’m sweat soaked from shoulders to knees. I’m looking for a set of factory cloth covers but no luck so far.