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Feel free to go through this thread and then let me know if you can tell which ones have adjustable track bars and which ones don't ;): https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/gladiators-on-mopar-2-lift-kit.16197/

From another thread, Mopar has 15% off coupons you can use to order right through a dealer. Dealer price would likely be MSRP. Sounds like you can use the 15% off coupon more than once so if you wanted other mopar parts you could place individual orders and get 15% off each. There is also a...

I think they are all pretty similarly priced. I think the steer smarts Yeti one is the only one that is adjustable without having to remove any bolts as it uses a collar and pinch bolts. However, removing a bolt to spin the adjustment end isn't really that big of deal either. Once you get it...

If a dealer does it, there will be a service ticket in the system for it. I don't know the ins and outs of that process though. It's my understanding it's noted in the system (any dealer can look up the service tickets) so there shouldn't be any issues. No There's some youtube videos that...

The axles will shift. The front will get pulled to the drivers side and the rear will get pulled to the passenger side. This is because of where the body mount point is for each track bar. It is on the drivers side for the front and lifting the body of the vehicle (via a suspension lift) will...

Maybe I'm missing something, but if you're going through the process of renting a trailer and getting a ball mount why not just put them all in the trailer? When my rubi was stock I used a 2" drop receiver and towed a 6x12 enclosed uhaul cross county. It sat pretty level.

You could add a wheel spacer to push the wheels out a little further.

You might look into getting a set of Clayton Off Road rear 2.5” springs then get a spacer up front to level things more if you want. People have been very happy with the Clayton stuff.

I think this is the main takeaway. For simple setting changes the 'budget' ones are fine and 1/4 the price. If you want more advanced features such as live data you would be better served by the 'premium' adapter. I'd be interested as to what things you found you couldn't do to get a better...

The one your picturing is the 'Vgate iCar pro LE' The one he bought was the 'Vgate iCar pro BLE' The 'BLE' is the same one I have that works just fine. Similar but different models names on the adapters. This is the one I bought from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGB4873

Another person had what I think is a similar problem and they found out that the pins in the BSM connector were not making proper contact.

I agree that it's misleading in how they do this. Given this is an upcharge it would be nice for Mopar's warranty to supersede the jeep warranty on that part. I hope more people see this and realize that factory upcharge is not worth it and Jeep changes the policy because of it.

So, since the jeep came factory with GG, would insurance pay to replace with the same which would then come with the Mopar 2 year warranty? Given that Jeeps are so prone to having the windshields replaced it might be in their favor to do so.

I wonder if this is an axle swap or a body swap. There were regular cab DRW trucks with a similar wheelbase to the JT. EDIT: Probably an axle swap since i can't imagine the engines from those other trucks would fit nicely in a JT.

That's some shit. It is, like you said, just throwing away $200 since these can and do crack. Did they imply this would have been replaced under the 12 mo/12K defect warranty?

I've ordered a couple things from them before and never had an issue. Got my Arcus front bumper from them last year. Never had to deal with their customer service though.

Few weeks back out wheeling with a friend and his G-Wagon.

This thread over on the JL forum has some options for you. https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/wheels-with-removable-rash-rings.48924/

It's my understanding that inside beads don't usually blow because they don't tend to have outside forces such as rocks, trees, etc pushing against them like the outside bead does. There's people doing crazy things, probably much crazier than someone would do in a JT, on "regular" beadlocks...

@ScooterInTX if you had factory halogen and using Jscan, the below settings are all you should have to change to LED if you are NOT using the included resistor. The US->Euro diagnostic setting mentioned is only if you get turn signal out messages. It’s my understanding those coming from...