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What part of PA?

Gonna have to save this... Might have to find myself driving south somehow

2 or 4 door?

I have the 3.5" J-Kontrol kit with the 2.5" IFP shocks on my Sport. Couldn't be happier with it. Ride quality is better then for sure. The kit you have listed looks like a great options, seems to be an identical kit but re-uses the factory mojave shocks.

If anyone has a pump with metal, the ENTIRE fuel system needs to be replaced, no exceptions. Anything less is the dealer doing their job wrong.

Start with the tires, try and swap with someone. Stock Willy's tires (MT2's) cup no matter what and wayyyy too fast from the factory. Fixed a good handful with just tires on willy's and the Sahara/Overland tires as well.

sounds like they broke a connector on the first repair, can't imagine the subsequent have gone much better. I bet it's related to the workmanship of the wiring repairs.

Little lost in the verbiage. But Honestly, "don't take it to the dealer" is the right choice. Too many negligent and uneducated people don't diligent and important jobs these days.

The fact that this would be way worse, but only the skewed numbers of Fiat 500 coming back going from 1 -> 163 sales is make this look better then it really is...

People throwing a lot of US logic at a Canadian issue. With that being said, you will forever chase Ucoonnect and USB issues no matter how many software updates and parts are replaced. It's not defective, just working as designed, albeit a flawed and frequently broken design.

Currently day 3 into manual written RO's and no history for parts orders and services. Good times... Good times...

More importantly they finally added the "clutch reset routine", this is extremely helpful and prevents a dealer trip that they won't know how to fix, when all that's needed is a button press.

This is totally fair and the most relatable one of these I've seen so far. Stellantis is tanking this company hard, and I see this being the case for almost all CDJR dealers soon. Tech are leaving for better times. Managers are getting screwed with warranty denials, and Stellantis personall are...

Looks like it needs some scratches...

There's now technically 3 variants of this exact same dimension build. It's just a JLU with a slightly extended JT bed in front of the fenders, and back section of the JT cab welded to the B-pillar from the JLU. It's by far the easiest from a mechanical since as far as the functional goodies. I...

22" wheels are why you are having issues, those are super heavy. Mine with 3.5" lift, 37x12.5x17s still stops better then a stock JK.

None what? no parts are needed for what I'm saying to do. Unless your Z-Fuse was indeed blown.

Yes that should be your ground for the EPS pump exclusively. Easy enough to verify by unplugging the pump and unbolting that ground, then measuring resistance from the pump ground to that stud. best to disconnect the battery prior though simply because the pump is a constant 12V circuit at all...

This is 100% true. There's only one way to really find this out though and 90% of people will never see it. When you remove the oil filter cap, the filter element is meant to be attached to it. therefore most will never see it. Now some people may have seen this, but I normally see it most often...

I didn't fully read but looks like this still unfixed. I found a fix for this in a JT recently. Do the same as I did here. " Moved to open ground 1/2" below G908A attachment point and symptom no longer present. G908A stud must be corroded behind visibility and causing intermittent loss of...