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Power steering failure….again

IanNubbit

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I didn't fully read but looks like this still unfixed. I found a fix for this in a JT recently. Do the same as I did here. " Moved to open ground 1/2" below G908A attachment point and symptom no longer present. G908A stud must be corroded behind visibility and causing intermittent loss of connection under high amperage load. " G908A is the ground it currently is on behind the headlight. Clean the ground and move it to the one below. Fixed one that had 2 pumps replaced that weren't needed.
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Maximus Gladius

Maximus Gladius

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I didn't fully read but looks like this still unfixed. I found a fix for this in a JT recently. Do the same as I did here. " Moved to open ground 1/2" below G908A attachment point and symptom no longer present. G908A stud must be corroded behind visibility and causing intermittent loss of connection under high amperage load. " G908A is the ground it currently is on behind the headlight. Clean the ground and move it to the one below. Fixed one that had 2 pumps replaced that weren't needed.
Behind the passenger headlight is three ground posts. The upper one has one wire attached. The middle one has no wire attached and the bottom one has two wires attached. Are you saying the upper one is G908A and to move this one down 1/2” to the middle post?



Jeep Gladiator Power steering failure….again IMG_1918


Jeep Gladiator Power steering failure….again IMG_1916
 
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Maximus Gladius

Maximus Gladius

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Any ideas why you have gone through three pumps? Is it the driving conditions where you live and the climate up North?
Oh I have an idea alright, maybe three. All the bad pumps, trannys, engines etc made are sent up here. The second idea is my alternator is too powerful and it just blows things up internally and my third idea is the solar eclipse did it.
 

IanNubbit

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Behind the passenger headlight is three ground posts. The upper one has one wire attached. The middle one has no wire attached and the bottom one has two wires attached. Are you saying the upper one is G908A and to move this one down 1/2” to the middle post?



IMG_1918.jpeg


IMG_1916.jpeg
Yes that should be your ground for the EPS pump exclusively. Easy enough to verify by unplugging the pump and unbolting that ground, then measuring resistance from the pump ground to that stud. best to disconnect the battery prior though simply because the pump is a constant 12V circuit at all times. If that is indeed your ground for the pump, removed the free and open ground next to it, clean the contact points real quick and try it. Doing this over the course of 2 minutes will allow to know if the ground wire is good and if the connection to chassis ground is good. Also if the grille can easily be removed. It's substantially easier with the headlight housing removed as well.
 
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Maximus Gladius

Maximus Gladius

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Yes that should be your ground for the EPS pump exclusively. Easy enough to verify by unplugging the pump and unbolting that ground, then measuring resistance from the pump ground to that stud. best to disconnect the battery prior though simply because the pump is a constant 12V circuit at all times. If that is indeed your ground for the pump, removed the free and open ground next to it, clean the contact points real quick and try it. Doing this over the course of 2 minutes will allow to know if the ground wire is good and if the connection to chassis ground is good. Also if the grille can easily be removed. It's substantially easier with the headlight housing removed as well.
I won’t be getting my truck back for awhile cuz there’s none in Canada and could take a bit to get one shipped here. I should tell them to ship a couple and have one on hand for me next time
 

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IanNubbit

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I won’t be getting my truck back for awhile cuz there’s none in Canada and could take a bit to get one shipped here. I should tell them to ship a couple and have one on hand for me next time
None what? no parts are needed for what I'm saying to do. Unless your Z-Fuse was indeed blown.
 
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Maximus Gladius

Maximus Gladius

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None what? no parts are needed for what I'm saying to do. Unless your Z-Fuse was indeed blown.
The tech determined electrical malfunction in the pump and there’s non up here in Canada. But Ill call in to the dealership tomorrow and tell them to check this out. I replaced the Z fuse myself and that didn’t fix it.
 
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Maximus Gladius

Maximus Gladius

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I’m hoping just moving that wire down to the middle stud is all that’s needed then I can truly say “I’m not crazy”.
 

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The tech determined electrical malfunction in the pump and there’s non up here in Canada. But Ill call in to the dealership tomorrow and tell them to check this out. I replaced the Z fuse myself and that didn’t fix it.
Why do I have to keep repeating this.
"Alexa, find Jeep rentals near me".
 

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ShadowsPapa

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There's a TSB for that ground if I recall correctly. Shocked no dealer has pulled it out and followed it - even if it's the right year or color of JT.
 
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Maximus Gladius

Maximus Gladius

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Yesterday morning recalling what I did in attempting to restore power to the pump, I first took off the ground wire to the upper post, cleaned it up, used a brass brush on the matting points and put it back. (I did not undo the battery for this) There was no spark on contact if 12v is constant to the pump. I then I focused on the Z case fuse and did disconnect both batteries changing that out.

The question I have is if that top ground post is corroded enough to cause pump failure, why would swapping out the pump for a new one make it work? New parts shouldn’t work if the ground is bad.

Also, when a new pump is ordered, does it come with a new harness as well?
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