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I just installed mine and I dont have any issues when I hit the button. I have a loaded Rubicon, so it would seem kike I should have had the same issues as Shadow. I press the button and I hear the a relay click so its engaging. Havent connected to a trailer yet though

On top of those parts there is also a kit with numerous other odds and ends that is about 10k, so you're really looking at 10k labor. I found a Youtube video series where they filmed their swap, because I wanted to do it myself as I had the same reaction as you when it came to the dollar...

You look a lot like one of the participants that was on the video screen while I was doing this same research study!:LOL:

I feel like the dimming works well, but it isn't the full width of the mirror. There is an edge in the mirror around the dimming area that doesn't dim and I occasionally catch a headlight in that little area and it is very irritating.

@Bestop Seconded!

I sent them my BCM logs on Friday. Hopefully it was what they needed.

Does it retain the MDS functionality too or does it always have all 8 cylinders running?

I fit this criteria, so I sent an email to their support.

I don't think you'll be able to lose much length. The frame is pretty much right behind the bumper. My bumper added length because of the hooks and shackle mounts.

I'd like to. I tried, but there little to no clearance around my winch and the bumper so I had to return the cover.

Mine is at the dealer now for an oil change and I brought up the TSB. Crossing my fingers they don't blame it on the lift and 37s. I did take it in for this issue during my last oil change which was well before my lift and I'll fall back on that argument if I have to.

They're the JL/Gladiator pintlers, so +25

I have this sound too. It's irritating, but I never thought much of it. Curious to see what you ultimately find out.

There is an override switch that turns locks them in place (up or down). Before taking my doors off (with the doors closed) I switch them off and they stay up. If I am washing my truck, I'll open the doors, switch them off and close the doors, they stay down so I can reach the top of the truck...

I removed mine when I installed my Clayton 3.5".

I hope there is a response to this. I was about to ask the same question after I saw the rolll'n'lock one.

Has anyone tried to use a different Jeep key and have it programmed and cut? Something like this...

Rock Slide Engineering has a 1 gal rotopax mount for their steps. My only complaint is that Rotopax only offer the storage Rotopax in 2 Gal, so you're limited to gas/water 1gal pax. https://rockslideengineering.com/product/rotopax-mount-for-gladiator-step-slider/

Yeah, the angle is much better now. I was able to get my upper control arms set to the lift manufacturers recommended length.

Seems like the noise is gone after a bit of driving. Still a bit concerned