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I will take the rears if someone has a complete set.

Nice, I will look into them.

Looks great! What wheels are those?

It may matter on the bolt direction. On the JT and JL if you put the nut toward the tire the end of the bolt once tightened sticks out too far and hits the tire on full lock. Not sure if the same issue exists on the JK. Can’t remember it being an issue when I had my JK but may have been.

My suggestion is to make it look factory with a Jeep logo on it just much smaller. I have the AJT but it looks more like an old school alarm system remote than a modern Jeep key. I would be in for one if the key is functional, it’s smaller and looks factory. I also agree to make it work in the...

Anyone replace their unpainted fenders and want to part with one? I got trail damage last weekend and need a new passenger rear fender. Pickup near Philadelphia or I can pay shipping.

I assume facing up toward the bed will result in less damage if you wheel the truck at all. I get mud and rocks hitting my spare all the time. Maybe put a sheet of foam over the tire before pulling it up?

I am hoping my dream of a factory released SRT Gladiator actually comes true. So far it’s just a tease from Jeep.

I have 37s on 4” of lift and my 5’2” wife gets in and out just fine. For the past year I didn’t have any step at all but just added ACE rock rails and she does like being able to climb them. Oh and I agree 22” rims are terrible. Stick with 17s no matter the tire size.

It I don’t know how you would frame mount a hitch with the skid installed. You likely will need an aftermarket bumper or remove the skid to accomplish a front hitch. Maybe you could weld one on though assuming you just want to carry a rack or something relatively light.

If you don’t rock crawl you don’t need a Rubicon. The higher fenders allow bigger tires without a lift, lockers help when tires are off the ground crawling on rocks, disconnects help keep the tires on the ground in off camber off roading. 4:1 transfer case allows low speed 4 low crawl and 4.10...

I would think the rubicon instructions would fit the max tow. The only real difference would be the base length of the bars. I have the same setup on my rubicon and they work great. And the stabilizer relocation is critical to avoid banging the stabilizer on rocks.

I agree. 100k on our 2014 and it has never needed anything except a set of tires and oil changes. And with 100k it still runs and looks like new.

We have had our MDX for about 7 years and it’s been a great 3 row vehicle. My wife wanted something that felt small but could handle 7 people. We only have 2 boys but we carpool a ton for sports and the MDX works great. We are looking at getting a new one as this one now has 100k on it and will...

I towed my 5,000lb travel trailer with 4.10s and it was ok but really struggled on hills. 4.88s make it much better.

Thought the first one was funny with the size difference. Second one is my wheeling crew on a wheeling trip in WV.

That’s my suggestion. Should you ever need the spare it work work as a temp until you get the original fixed.

Why do you need a different wheel from the stock one? I am running 12.5 wide 37s on stock wheels including the spare and everything works fine. No spacers needed.

Can’t we all just get along? I have owned a wrangler my entire adult life and do care about gas mileage. If for no other reason to get more miles before my next fill up. Stop reading the threads that bore you so much.

My teenage boys ride in the back of mine all the time and say it’s very comfortable. My older son is almost 6’ tall and he has no complaints. As others have said the back seat is the same in the JT as the JL. Don’t listen to sales people who many times have no idea what they are talking about.