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Might as well. In for a penny, in for a pound. What size and what tires? Ide love to go with the MT Baja Pro

Very nice. $600+ per wheel is some serious coin.

yeah, thats the tricky thing about the Gator color. It can look anything from OD, brown, tan, tope, etc. depending on the light. this is what makes picking a wheel color a challenge. Black would always work since it would match the fenders, hard top, bumpers, etc. but everyone and his brother...

tan would be much closer to Gobi than Gator.

I am considering changing my Black Rhino wheels in OD (17x9.5") to something else. My JT is Gator. The OD looks good but the wheel style to me looks too heavy. I want something with more open space. Every design under the sun is made in black but I am not sure I want black, although it would...

This is a super simple mod. I took the rear bumper off because i was installing real rearward facing lights in place of the reflectors at the same time. I used my dremel to cut out the panel and then used a mild sanding drum on the dremel to smooth and bevel the edges to match the factory side...

will do. If you find anyone looking for a set of Gator painted flares, send them my way. If my top had been painted it may have been different but having painted flares and a black top to me just looked mismatched, plus I wanted the high lines.

Finished my painted to unpainted fender swap. Rubis up front, max tow in the rear. Bigger project than expected but done and looks great. With the high line flares in the front but not in the rear the look of rake is lessened without me actually losing any of my max tow capacity. Win-win. Also...

Hauled my Road King in my truck bed (not JT) with a front wheel chock, straps where the bars met the head tube. It wasn’t going anywhere.

If he’s willing to do all that, what’s an Atlas II added to the build? Axles are $16-20k, hemi is another $40-50k depending which, Atlas is like $5000, chump change in comparison and bulletproof compared to a stock Rubi t case.

Removed factory painted flares to get ready to install black ones.

Update: I worked on this today. I punched out the centers of the plastic rivets along the flare edge so I could remove the inner liner. This allowed me to get access to the backside of the white clips that actually hold the flares to the body.I used a needle nose pliers and was able to squeeze...

My local parts store has them for $3.99 each and I saw them online for 7.99 each from the mopar parts houses. Are they same as JK clips? If so I see them on Amazon for a little over a buck apiece.

What’s the over/under on how many of the white plastic clips I will break when swapping my factory fenders? I’ve seen videos where people violently remove (yank) their fenders off and don’t break a single clip. I’ve also heard accounts of breaking every single one. Is there a trick to not...

I’ll admit I do like the train blaster horn set up. I think I can justify it by saying the same compressor and tank can also run lockers and on board air (air tools and lower tire pressure air up). The big F you blast would just be a side benefit of the other stuff.

yes I got a complete set, front and rear with liners off a 2022 JLURD.

Looking for a pair of good condition rear factory JT flares unpainted. Premium paid for Rubicon high lines but will also consider black non rubi.

Probably right. I picked up a set of Rubi tske offs but they are from a JL so the rears won’t work. Unfortunately my JT has painted flares.

Any thoughts on how to best remove factory paint from mounted rear fender flares? Hoping I can end up with something that resembles factory non-painted flares

Aside from it being on 40’s with a 3.5” COR lift, what are the rest of the build specs?