That's what I've also said. The 3.8 itself isnt all that bad, but the 4 speed auto I have is absolute garbage, terrible ratios, constantly wants to be in overdrive, just so bad. The nag1 on the 3.6 is just so much better, fast shifts better programming, and better ratios. Its not 8 speed but I...
I have a 3.8l JK on 4.10s and a 3.6 jk on 3.21s and the 3.6 jk absolutely hauls ass compared to the 3.8 lol. That 3.8 with the shitty 4 speed is an absolute dog off the line but once you're going it does fine.
That said the 3.8 has 243k miles and runs like an absolute dream and is easy to work...
The Clayton will probably closer to 4.5± inches of lift in the front, they take 1-1.5 inches of rake out and measure from the rear so the rear will be about 3.5-4 and the front will be 4.5-5. also I forgot to mention that the Mojave is only taller in the front not the rears.
I recommend you go drive a 392 for a long test drive before you plop the cash. I took one home for the weekend as they tried to make the sale and while it was cool and made all the right sounds it wasn't worth the price to me. Its quick but once I regeared to 5.13s I don't lack passing power...
A Dana 44 is not a Dana 44. The old school dana 44 vs a jk dana 44 (and pro-rock/currie) vs an advantek dana 44 are all different ring and pinion sizes. The advantek dana 44 has a much larger pinion than the jk gear sets and the pinion for 4.88 and 5.13 has the same amount of teeth just the...
You'll love them. The margin between 4.88 and 5.13 pinion is so small that if you were breaking one you'd be breaking the other, it's less than 5% on advantek axles. Usally breaking your pinion is mostly a right foot problem, don't bounce the jeep while flooring it and you'll be fine.
Ton of...
40k miles on stock size shouldn't have worn it out but it's still worth a check if you are mildly handy it takes just a few minutes. Some ball joints go forever despite abuse (mine just wore out despite heavy wheeling towing and 38+ tires at 65k miles) but my wife 4xe lasted all of 40k miles...
I'd get track bars or track bar brackets front and rear to get the axles centered. Your other best bang for the buck is going to be control arms geometry brackets. Will get the angles right for relatively cheap and also improve ride. Then just skip the alignment since they can't do anything but...
It's not cheaper to lift 4.5 properly than it is to just go for a budget 2.5 and 38s. Not to mention you're still not gaining any clearance under the axle, and with a 2.5 lift you can get away with upper front control arms to adjust caster and track bars to center and you're gonna be fine off...
The gladiator is a long weiner dog, so 35s aren't going to cut it for serious rock crawling. Look to move up to 37+ as you really only need a 2.5 inch lift to clear 37s and if you split the fenders you can even do 39s with reasonable bump stops (~3 inches) on a 2.5 inch lift.
4.5 inch lift on a...
They should since you already mounted them, they just won't do anything with the bolts, do retorque in 100ish miles. Since these are straight in to aluminum all of mine were loose after 100 miles.
Did you calculate that as pie or did you actually measure the outside of the tire? I've found the bfgs are pretty close in circumference but just squish like crazy to make them seem a size smaller