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'23 Gladiator Sport S Towing

IamPro2A

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Yeah, there's a lot of goofy "advice" in this, yet another tow thread, but until now, no one talked tongue weight and so on. And the earlier bit about going by axle weight, saying basically it's all fine if you don't exceed that, horrible info.
Tongue weight against payload has been ignored, as if it's all fine if you just don't exceed that. Horrible advice.

It's dangerous enough out there without some of the stuff seen as "advice" or "opinions" on towing on the internet, including here, at times
Yeah, as you and I have both said numerous times, there is nothing you can do to change the legal towing capacity. You probably remember all the questions and discussion when I first started considering moving from the Max Tow to a Rubicon, so you know I personally go by the book on these things. If the Rubi was not rated to legally tow my heaviest trailer it would have been a deal killer. By that metric, he's just plain screwed, because I believe his Sport S is probably 4500lbs. He was already exceeding that with his last boat/trailer, so I think we're past the legal/liability discussion.

So we're pretty much on to the opinion side of things, and you know what they say about those right? My opinion is that with the proper (and properly done!) gearing and suspension mods, and the trailer set up properly as well, he could safely tow 6k max for short distances on local roads. For highway speeds I would also want the wider axles and cooling/electrical upgrades. But even with all that, you still are not increasing the legal capacity.

I never mentioned the brake controller, because a trailer that size HAS to have brakes, and since it's a boat trailer meant to go into the water it's gonna be surge brakes which don't need a brake controller.
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IamPro2A

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If the boat+trailer = 6000lbs, then he needs 600-900lbs on the tongue. 6000lbs with 600lbs tongue would max out a 2023 Gladiator with factory 285/70s, 4:10s, and the appropriate suspension, you need to really dial in that tongue weight if you at least wanna be "safe but still illegal".
 

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Yeah, as you and I have both said numerous times, there is nothing you can do to change the legal towing capacity. You probably remember all the questions and discussion when I first started considering moving from the Max Tow to a Rubicon, so you know I personally go by the book on these things. If the Rubi was not rated to legally tow my heaviest trailer it would have been a deal killer. By that metric, he's just plain screwed, because I believe his Sport S is probably 4500lbs. He was already exceeding that with his last boat/trailer, so I think we're past the legal/liability discussion.

So we're pretty much on to the opinion side of things, and you know what they say about those right? My opinion is that with the proper (and properly done!) gearing and suspension mods, and the trailer set up properly as well, he could safely tow 6k max for short distances on local roads. For highway speeds I would also want the wider axles and cooling/electrical upgrades. But even with all that, you still are not increasing the legal capacity.

I never mentioned the brake controller, because a trailer that size HAS to have brakes, and since it's a boat trailer meant to go into the water it's gonna be surge brakes which don't need a brake controller.
Yeah, and again, here as with the stupid oil thread, there's a ton of bad or just plain WRONG information.
The fact for trailer brakes is - for 47/50 states trailer brakes are required for trailers 3000lb or more.
For Kansas, 2000lb,
for Nevada and California, 1500lb.

So people can't name a number and say "one size fits all" - if I towed from Iowa to California - I might get into trouble!!

Many experts suggest trailer brakes when the towed vehicle weighs 50% or more of the towing vehicle. We're ok there, except in 3 states.
 

IamPro2A

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Many experts suggest trailer brakes when the towed vehicle weighs 50% or more of the towing vehicle. We're ok there, except in 3 states.
I believe federal law is brakes are required over 3k GVWR *OR* if the trailer GVWR exceeds 40% of the tow vehicle's. So technically, if you are towing with a small SUV or car, you might need brakes at an even lower trailer weight. Heck, I think our old 2dr JK had a GVWR of like 4800lbs, so a 2,000lb trailer being towed by it still required brakes.
 

Mr Miami

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There is a lot of good information here and as @Papa noted, a lot of goofy stuff.

Personally, and many may disagree with me, but if it is true that you do a mile or two towing, I wouldn't think twice about it, if that's all it is. Better to do it off-hours, early mornings or when you are not likely to have a bunch of kids on bicycles on the same road. Remember, if you are over the factory limit and have an accident, especially if anyone gets injured, you can be up the creek without a paddle (at least in many States).

Otherwise, as long as the trailer has breaking (electronic or surge), I don't think it would be an issue with the Jeep itself. If you start extending your trips, then all bets are off.
 

mtudb24

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Would the dealer do that? I assume they would charge something?
Dealers charge $125 to recalibrate the tire size. They can only go up to 35's. I had to buy a tazer when I went to 37's last spring.
I tow a 22 foot Yamaha Jet boat. I have the max tow and towing it home from the dealer which was 3 hours away, I would not do this every weekend or really much at all. You could tell it was back there.

With that being said, now that its home (bought it back in May of 2024), I only have to tow a few miles from my dock to the marina for winterization and to indoor winter storage per season. I will borrow a buddy's truck if I ever have to take it back to the dealer for warranty work.

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