BznGranite
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Getting tired of waiting for an answer myself
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All dash warning lights flashing. Wipers running, while engine is off
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LordEnzo
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This happened to me when I was off reading. If it was immediately after playing in water/mud, it water in a connector. Took me a week to let dry with battery disconnected. The cleared codes with jscan and I was peachy.
BznGranite
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Wish I could say that I have been out off reading playing in the mud, but haven't had the opportunity to get it out
BznGranite
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So I picked up my Gladiator on Thursday and at least the service advisor was honest and said they were not confident that the issue was fixed. He also stated they had just gotten another one in with same issues happening and everything they did to mine had not worked in that one. So.... Saturday afternoon heading into town and everything started flashing again on dash. Wipers running full speed and coolant fan running excessively fast. Headed to the dealership and parked in front of the service door as they were closed. And the truck would not shut off??????. No matter what I did I could not shut off the engine. Asked the sales guys if they could give me a hand or get ahold of someone in service to get suggestions. While waiting for them I disconnected the battery and engine ran for about ten minutes while waiting for an answer from them and finally the engine stopped.
Getting very discouraged that the issue cannot be resolved so I can enjoy my truck again.
Getting very discouraged that the issue cannot be resolved so I can enjoy my truck again.
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ShadowsPapa
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Note on disconnecting battery of a running engine:
It won't kill the engine because the alternator is supplying power,
and
in some cases, the disconnecting of the battery can cause a surge that blows electronics because the load of the battery is gone.
I've seen some diodes blown to bits, and regulator circuits fried.
BznGranite
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Thanks for the info. What would you suggest to kill the engine? Only thing I could think to do and a good thing the service manager they were able to get on phone suggested the same thing.
dcmdon
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Its crazy. Everything I would normally suggest to kill an engine won't work on modern vehicles. Especially one with an AT. With a MT, just put it in 5th gear and let out the clutch.
As I think of this, I'm thinking I'd go into the fuse box and pull a fuse that ran the ECU or fuel pump or something along those lines.
As I think of this, I'm thinking I'd go into the fuse box and pull a fuse that ran the ECU or fuel pump or something along those lines.
ShadowsPapa
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F70 fuse - coil/injector feed.
Fuel pump fuse or relay would be second choice as it would run the system out of fuel - not sure how nice it would be to restart later.
But killing the ignition system or the injector circuit should do it.
Fuel pump fuse or relay would be second choice as it would run the system out of fuel - not sure how nice it would be to restart later.
But killing the ignition system or the injector circuit should do it.
Steel24
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Could this be linked to a TIPM Power Distribution Center problem. (Fuse box).
just an uneducated guess.
Sucks this is happening. Interested in the cause.
just an uneducated guess.
Sucks this is happening. Interested in the cause.
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ShadowsPapa
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"the" cause? Hmmm, not likely to be just one cause for all trucks - if 5 people have an issue similar to this, it's most likely there's 2 different reasons (at least).
There have been cases of where that PDC didn't get solidly engaged and had connection issues, and others have said it was a harness connection issue.
You use standard troubleshooting procedures. Could be a connection issue anywhere in the network, could be a pinched wire or one that got hot, or could be a PCD connectivity problem (but I'd not call that a "thing")
Most unfortunately, i's not like "if you find this code, this is the cause".
You do look at the most likely, the most plausible things first.
I'm glad I didn't jump off the edge and replace the O2 sensors in my other Jeep like the code said was bad. I dug deeper and found it was a false alert in certain PCMs under very specific conditions. So I'd caution folks against lumping all similar electrical issues into the same cause because it worked for one person.
ShadowsPapa
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Since it's not an "on/off" SPST NO type switch, but a momentary contact device, sending a signal to the PCM - it's most likely a bus connectivity issue. The PCM can't get the signal to shut down.
It's possible the "switch" is faulty, but this is more than the switch not closing again to send a stop signal down the line.
Normal ignition switches are normally open, NO, for the ignition and acc side of things.
The switch latches in the closed position for acc and ign.
These are a momentary contact device -
Foot NOT on the brake:
press/close then open to send a signal that says "go to ACC mode of foot on brake pedal=false,
press and release (close then open) again to tell it go to RUN mode if foot on brake pedal=false,
then press and release again to send a signal "go to OFF mode" if foot on brake pedal =false.
With foot on the brake, press and release sends a momentary signal that the PCM reads as "begin TIP start process" since brake pedal pressed = true. (TIP start - press and release the button, it cranks until started or until xx time passes, then stops cranking)
If all else was fine, no other lights, no warnings, everything looked totally normal and pressing the button didn't kill the engine, then it would be most likely a switch issue.
That's how I read this, anyway...........
Hootbro
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I think pulling that fuse only gets him half way there. It will kill the engine, but I bet he still has a power on with ignition switch in run position.
Pulling the K08 RUN/START relay also will power it off totally.
I guess one other thing I would do before pulling the K08 RUN/START relay is to pull the F10 fuse first. This will kill power to the push button start switch which is called the " Module - Keyless Ignition Node" on the schematic. That will kill the ignition switch position signal coming out of the Radio Frequency Hub that goes to the BCM and on to the control side of the PDC for the start run.
If still powered on and running after that, I would say the PDC is suspect.
ShadowsPapa
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Yeah, I was going by "what if I'm stuck somewhere and engine won't shut down......."
...............without diagrams.
Pull cover from fuses, look for a way to kill ignition and/or fuel......
I was shocked a service person suggested pulling a battery cable, especially since unless you take the cables apart at the IBS, you still have a battery connected AND your alternator is providing power - unless you fry it in the process.
Alternator still is putting out - and there's another battery still connected.
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