Zapper
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Michael
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2024
- Threads
- 12
- Messages
- 46
- Reaction score
- 69
- Location
- Okanagan, British Columbia
- Vehicle(s)
- 2021 Sport S
- Thread starter
- #1
Just fixed my ticking 3.6 this weekend. Total repair time was 6 hours and it was an intermediate level repair. If you have a decent set of tools, some experience and no warranty its definitely possible for the backyard mechanic.
Symptoms were a generally quiet engine, except over 3000rpm where it started to sound like it was going to start spitting parts out.
Brought my truck into the stealer a few weeks ago, and even though I was under 100,000kms, they wouldn't warranty the repair. They even mysteriously had never heard of right-side intake cams failing hah which I presume is plausible deniability. But whatever, I don't have the patience to be without my vehicle for several weeks, and didn't want to argue with them, or pay their quote ($4500 CAD) so I took the job on myself.
The best guide I've found is in this thread in the link below. I followed it pretty much to the tee and it was fine.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/failed-rocker-arm-camshaft-replacement.118525/
The videos mentioned in the thread are probably the best ones going over the procedure- but they are for the older engines so a couple small differences.
Some tips:
- ziploc bags and labels are your friend. There's a lot of fasteners to remove so best to label them so they go back in the right place
- most of the wires will only reconnect to one place, but the oil control valve solenoids can be mixed up- make sure you mark them
- the PCV valve on the VVL motor is easy to remove (older motor was a PITA apparently), push down on the hose and squeeze the grey plastic connector and it will pop off, then turn the pcv about 60 degrees and it will loosen and can be pulled out
-jeep apparently knows enough about this problem to sell a kit specifically for replacing the right intake cam, rockers, a gasket and rtv (part #68661147AA). Note this was not properly indexed in the Jeep parts database. It may or may not show up as fitting this vehicle when you go to order.
- I also bought 6 valve lash adjusters (they are not in the kit. Part 5047883AC)
- I needed to loosen both oil control valves in order to get enough play in the chain to remove the phaser from the cam
-The tool to lock the cams and loosen the chain is about $400. The cheapo kits on Amazon are for the old engines, not the new VVL ones in our trucks
- when you are using the tool, it doesn't seem to loosen the chain very much at all, I wasn't sure if it was working, but it was enough to remove the cam phaser from the cam
- I removed the main battery but didn't disconnect the aux, that was a potentially stupid mistake as I assumed I had no power until I noticed the interior lights on!
Here's a list of tools I used for the job:
Symptoms were a generally quiet engine, except over 3000rpm where it started to sound like it was going to start spitting parts out.
Brought my truck into the stealer a few weeks ago, and even though I was under 100,000kms, they wouldn't warranty the repair. They even mysteriously had never heard of right-side intake cams failing hah which I presume is plausible deniability. But whatever, I don't have the patience to be without my vehicle for several weeks, and didn't want to argue with them, or pay their quote ($4500 CAD) so I took the job on myself.
The best guide I've found is in this thread in the link below. I followed it pretty much to the tee and it was fine.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/failed-rocker-arm-camshaft-replacement.118525/
The videos mentioned in the thread are probably the best ones going over the procedure- but they are for the older engines so a couple small differences.
Some tips:
- ziploc bags and labels are your friend. There's a lot of fasteners to remove so best to label them so they go back in the right place
- most of the wires will only reconnect to one place, but the oil control valve solenoids can be mixed up- make sure you mark them
- the PCV valve on the VVL motor is easy to remove (older motor was a PITA apparently), push down on the hose and squeeze the grey plastic connector and it will pop off, then turn the pcv about 60 degrees and it will loosen and can be pulled out
-jeep apparently knows enough about this problem to sell a kit specifically for replacing the right intake cam, rockers, a gasket and rtv (part #68661147AA). Note this was not properly indexed in the Jeep parts database. It may or may not show up as fitting this vehicle when you go to order.
- I also bought 6 valve lash adjusters (they are not in the kit. Part 5047883AC)
- I needed to loosen both oil control valves in order to get enough play in the chain to remove the phaser from the cam
-The tool to lock the cams and loosen the chain is about $400. The cheapo kits on Amazon are for the old engines, not the new VVL ones in our trucks
- when you are using the tool, it doesn't seem to loosen the chain very much at all, I wasn't sure if it was working, but it was enough to remove the cam phaser from the cam
- I removed the main battery but didn't disconnect the aux, that was a potentially stupid mistake as I assumed I had no power until I noticed the interior lights on!
Here's a list of tools I used for the job:
| Tools | Notes |
| Chain Tension Tool & Cam Lock | need VVL tool set $400-$500 (CTA Tools 1205) |
| Intake Cam Kit Valve Lash Adjusters | 68661147AA x1 5047883AC x6 |
| RTV (included in Intake Kit) | RTV in kit requires a small caulking gun |
| 3/8 Ratchet & Metric Sockets | Lots of 10mm |
| 1/4 Ratchet | |
| t30 torx | |
| t25 torx | |
| 8mm Deep Socket (1/4") | valve cover |
| 8mm Shallow Socket (1/4") | valve cover |
| 1/4" and 3/8" Extensions | |
| in-lbs torque wrench | cam caps & valve cover |
| ft-lbs torque wrench | oil control valve installation |
| host pinch off pliers x3 | three heater hoses at the top |
| 36mm socket | oil control valve removal |
| 1 1/16 socket | for turning crank to line engine to TDC |
| ratcheting breaker bar | for turning crank to line engine to TDC |
| vice grips | |
| paint pen | to mark timing |
| hose clamp wrench | to disconnect coolant hoses |
| spark plug socket 5/8" | removing plugs will make engine easier to turn |
| contact cleaner/brake cleaner/etc | clean out torx bolts before removal to avoid stripping |
| big crescent wrench | need to turn the cam after reinstall |
| slot screwdriver | hose clamps |
| phillips screwdriver | air cleaner |
| vinyl gloves (several pairs) | lots of oil and grease |
| work light | |
| needle nose pliers | helpful to remove lash adjusters/lifters |
| 1 quart oil | |
| container to soak parts before install | |
| assembly lube | |
| gasket scraper with plastic blade | two spots with rtv |
| bungie cord | use to hold up coolant hoses out of the way |
| shop towels | its a messy job |
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