Anyone experienced codes like these?

[GladiatorNate]

Sounds like a similar issue to mine. The connecter behind the glovebox would be an easy part to replace to start with! I didn't notice additional vacuum pump noise, but I wasn't listening for anything specific, all the lights and the locked shifter were keeping my attention.

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[Papa Bear]

Just a one month update. Since the replacement of the two CAN Bus connectors behind the glovebox I have successfully driven 1000 miles and had zero issues. The fix is working. Remember to specify the two part numbers I mentioned earlier since some dealers believe that the entire dash wiring harness needs to be replaced. Not so, the connectors themselves are the fix. I did notice that when I closed the glovebox that there is still contact with the connectors which is maddening so ask dealer/mechanic to move them forward in that cavity a few inches instead of putting them right back to their original location and that may eliminate all future problems.

 

[Uparms]

Just a one month update. Since the replacement of the two CAN Bus connectors behind the glovebox I have successfully driven 1000 miles and had zero issues. The fix is working. Remember to specify the two part numbers I mentioned earlier since some dealers believe that the entire dash wiring harness needs to be replaced. Not so, the connectors themselves are the fix. I did notice that when I closed the glovebox that there is still contact with the connectors which is maddening so ask dealer/mechanic to move them forward in that cavity a few inches instead of putting them right back to their original location and that may eliminate all future problems.

I have second occurrence of same issues in 3 weeks. At same dealer again now. How hard was it to swap these two pieces,? Did you have to put the wires back into he same spot on the new BUS that it was in on the old? Do it one wire at a time to be precise? What does the backside of BUS connect to? Just mounting or is there a a wire or main it connects to, besides all the small connections on the BUS?

Thanks,

 

[Papa Bear]

I have second occurrence of same issues in 3 weeks. At same dealer again now. How hard was it to swap these two pieces,? Did you have to put the wires back into he same spot on the new BUS that it was in on the old? Do it one wire at a time to be precise? What does the backside of BUS connect to? Just mounting or is there a a wire or main it connects to, besides all the small connections on the BUS?

Thanks,

Just so I'm clear, you already replaced your BUS's and you are having the same issues or is it just that you are experiencing prolonged issues without having swapped out the BUS's? If it's the former, you need the new BUS's (the green and the tan) see my earlier post for part numbers. Remove the original BUS's from their locations--I believe they're held in place by a couple of screws. After you have unscrewed the BUS's, remove each connector from the port on the original BUS and place it into the same port on the new BUS.
Now you can screw the new BUS's into place (however, if you can find a preferable location just a few inches closer to air cabin filter housing as opposed to original location you may find that the glovebox will not not interfere with the connectors and BUS's when the glovebox is closed all the way. Hope that answered your question.

 

[Uparms]

Just so I'm clear, you already replaced your BUS's and you are having the same issues or is it just that you are experiencing prolonged issues without having swapped out the BUS's? If it's the former, you need the new BUS's (the green and the tan) see my earlier post for part numbers. Remove the original BUS's from their locations--I believe they're held in place by a couple of screws. After you have unscrewed the BUS's, remove each connector from the port on the original BUS and place it into the same port on the new BUS.
Now you can screw the new BUS's into place (however, if you can find a preferable location just a few inches closer to air cabin filter housing as opposed to original location you may find that the glovebox will not not interfere with the connectors and BUS's when the glovebox is closed all the way. Hope that answered your question.

Thank you. Yes, 2 occurrences without BUS replacements. Today I approved dealer to swap 1-2 buss, 2 codes came back. They just did that today. I also supplied them this thread and the part numbers, though I do not know if they did one or two. Codes, U0121-00 and U0002-00.

 

[Wet Willys]

Just wanted to post up my adventure with this same scenario in case anyone is searching the forums for trouble shooting ideas like I was.

About a month ago my abs/traction control lights started intermittently coming on for a moment, then shutting off at random times. The lights would only stay on for a few minutes at most and only happen ever few days or so. It progressively started happening more often until it was every time I drove it. I pulled the codes with my Tazer......same array of codes as the OP, implausible LF abs signal, loss of communication with abs module, various other CAN bus codes. I cleared the codes and they returned quickly, and while the abs/traction control lights weren't on, the ABS would activate randomly when pressing the brakes at slow speeds. I figured the first logical thing to do was clean the LF wheel speed sensor....codes all immediately came back. I then replaced the sensor...codes immediately came back. I checked the wiring and grounds, all look good. I ran across several threads on the JL forum that said the hub bearing may be the issue, even if there's no play in the hub...maybe an issue with the internal tone ring. Replaced the hub bearing, codes immediately came back. Then I found this thread and figured the next thing to try is the CAN bus connectors. That morning I was backing into my parking spot at work and noticed in the reflection of the window on the building that my 3rd brake light was out. I figured I'll pick that up at the dealer when I get the CAN bus connectors. Later that day I picked up just the green CAN bus connector since the local dealer didn't have the off-white one, and I grabbed a 3rd brake light while I was there. Replaced the green CAN bus connecter, codes immediately came back. Went ahead and replaced the 3rd brake light and cleared the codes again just for the hell of it. CODES DID NOT COME BACK. It's now been about 10 days, about 1,000 miles, a lot of off-roading, and a lot of key-off cycles, codes still have not returned and no random low speed ABS activation.

So, best I can tell, the 3rd brake light was the issue......which makes absolutely no sense to me.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Sorry, but the first question is why were you throwing parts at it based on internet stuff, and no, unless a bearing is allowing axle movement, it won't impact a tone ring. What was happening is that in the act of those people just tossing parts at a problem hoping to hit a target, they did something else that actually fixed it and then assumed it was the bearing. It's got to be bad before it will cause an issue. It's like those who say "replace the alternator" on fakebook pages because one person did that and it fixed their problem. The issue was really a bad connection but in the act of replacing the part, they resolved the connection issue.
Sensors at the tone rings won't show up until you start moving. The system has no real way to check until you hit about 7 mph after a startup. Then it checks for information coming from the wheel sensors.
So if you start the truck and the code comes back before you even move, it's not a wheel sensor. If you start the truck, put it in gear and exceed 7 mph and then a code comes up, it's likely associated with a wheel sensor.
If the code comes up right after starting but before moving above 7, it's another issue with the ABS system and that includes brake lights, brake pedal sensor, ABS ECU itself, and anything else controlled by the ABS. ABS is what handles brake lights. It's why the ABS system freaked out on the early JTs when trailer brake controllers were installed and sent a signal onto the brake light circuit - the ABS said hey, that's not me! Error!

So did you replace all 4 bearings? There's two up front, two in the rear - looks like just one, and why that one and not the other? Again, if no play, if the bearings don't allow several thousandths of movement, it's not going to be a bearing issue. I know what the internet says, but ..........

When people work on the CANbus connectors, they aren't normally replacing the part, they are pulling connections, cleaning, reseating things. And that's exactly all that was done to fix me goofy code issues a year ago. Pull glove box, disconnect things, clean, reconnect. A year now and not a single code related to any bus, CAN, LIN or otherwise, and no communication issues. Code-free, issue-free for going on a year now. Not even a minor issue after just reseating the star connectors.

In the end we really don't know what the fix was since you replaced parts in fairly quick succession - you may have had a combination of issues going on. Some of the codes may have disappeared by messing with the bus connector. You didn't specify exactly which codes, just "same array of codes" - the exact same codes? Exactly?

If there are ABS error codes, it's always good to check everything connected to the ABS system if you have errors related to ABS - starting with making sure all brake lights work, and also asking "what changed" if any work was recently done (such as connecting anything to brake lights, tapping into harnesses and so on)
It was a learning experience for you and perhaps you laid it all out there so that others wouldn't follow the same path and just start tossing parts at things. (especially based on what's out on the internet)
I'd certainly not call that troubleshooting - more of a shotgun approach.

 

[Wet Willys]

Sorry, but the first question is why were you throwing parts at it based on internet stuff, and no, unless a bearing is allowing axle movement, it won't impact a tone ring. What was happening is that in the act of those people just tossing parts at a problem hoping to hit a target, they did something else that actually fixed it and then assumed it was the bearing. It's got to be bad before it will cause an issue. It's like those who say "replace the alternator" on fakebook pages because one person did that and it fixed their problem. The issue was really a bad connection but in the act of replacing the part, they resolved the connection issue.
Sensors at the tone rings won't show up until you start moving. The system has no real way to check until you hit about 7 mph after a startup. Then it checks for information coming from the wheel sensors.
So if you start the truck and the code comes back before you even move, it's not a wheel sensor. If you start the truck, put it in gear and exceed 7 mph and then a code comes up, it's likely associated with a wheel sensor.
If the code comes up right after starting but before moving above 7, it's another issue with the ABS system and that includes brake lights, brake pedal sensor, ABS ECU itself, and anything else controlled by the ABS. ABS is what handles brake lights. It's why the ABS system freaked out on the early JTs when trailer brake controllers were installed and sent a signal onto the brake light circuit - the ABS said hey, that's not me! Error!

So did you replace all 4 bearings? There's two up front, two in the rear - looks like just one, and why that one and not the other? Again, if no play, if the bearings don't allow several thousandths of movement, it's not going to be a bearing issue. I know what the internet says, but ..........

When people work on the CANbus connectors, they aren't normally replacing the part, they are pulling connections, cleaning, reseating things. And that's exactly all that was done to fix me goofy code issues a year ago. Pull glove box, disconnect things, clean, reconnect. A year now and not a single code related to any bus, CAN, LIN or otherwise, and no communication issues. Code-free, issue-free for going on a year now. Not even a minor issue after just reseating the star connectors.

In the end we really don't know what the fix was since you replaced parts in fairly quick succession - you may have had a combination of issues going on. Some of the codes may have disappeared by messing with the bus connector. You didn't specify exactly which codes, just "same array of codes" - the exact same codes? Exactly?

If there are ABS error codes, it's always good to check everything connected to the ABS system if you have errors related to ABS - starting with making sure all brake lights work, and also asking "what changed" if any work was recently done (such as connecting anything to brake lights, tapping into harnesses and so on)
It was a learning experience for you and perhaps you laid it all out there so that others wouldn't follow the same path and just start tossing parts at things. (especially based on what's out on the internet)
I'd certainly not call that troubleshooting - more of a shotgun approach.

Somehow I knew you'd respond telling me what a terrible approach I used , and that's ok. You're right, I threw parts at it. I didn't do an in depth analysis of each component I replaced. Here are the codes it had:

U0415-00
U0418
U0419
P17C1-11
B1514-87
B17BC-11
P0031-2F
C0031-1D
C1514-87

I guess I should have stated that I cleared the codes and put a test drive in between the replacement of each part. The codes returned at some point while driving every time, but never before hitting 7mph. The reason I was focused on the LF is because one of the codes thrown was for the LF -see my initial post... no other wheel speed signal codes. Why would a 3rd brake light failure throw this code?? The wheel bearing replacement was a hail Mary, I had pretty low confidence it would fix it. When it didn't solve the issue I was ready to bite the bullet and take it to the dealer and I'd almost rather trade it in than take it to any of the dealership service departments around here.

I can't think of a logical explanation of why a 3rd brake light failure would throw all of those codes, especially one for the LF wheel speed signal. Some of those codes aren't even ABS related. I didn't even replace the 3rd brake light to solve this issue, but it did because none of the codes have returned. The reason I posted this wasn't to get anyone's opinion on my terrible "troubleshooting", but to let someone know that may be struggling with finding the root of this problem to look for this as a possible cause.

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