ARE CX Classic Installed (MattK)

[MattK]

Update:

It's been a year and half of use and the CX Classic is meeting expectations. It's been all over the western United States camping, playing and off-roading. I've bombed down some washes with it out in the desert at 70mph on occasion (not recommended lol) and it's not moved or cracked or anything else. The Trail Rail clamps are doing their job and I've only checked them once a few hundred miles after the initial install (probably should check them soon). No leaks and the dust seal I put in (another post on this thread) is holding up fine so far. The Rhino Rack is solid there and working as expected. I don't use it for a tent, just thing s I want out of the way that are less frequently needed.

Still need to solve for a better storage/organization solution but right now it gets the job done. I'd recommend CX Classic to anyone who prefers the styling but still provides basic functionality. It's no GFC or Alu-Cab etc. but it works for me and has held up great.

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[anduff]

Ive had mine for a year now. My only complaint is the top front of shell and rear top of cab will contact each other on washboard type bumps. Railroad tracks can do it also. Mine is mounted with front lined up with bed and rear hatch sealing with tailgate. I suppose I could move it back a 1/4 but afraid the hatch wont seal. Any thoughts?

 

[MattK]

Ive had mine for a year now. My only complaint is the top front of shell and rear top of cab will contact each other on washboard type bumps. Railroad tracks can do it also. Mine is mounted with front lined up with bed and rear hatch sealing with tailgate. I suppose I could move it back a 1/4 but afraid the hatch wont seal. Any thoughts?

If you're making contact with the cab when the bed flexes independently of the cab then it's too far forward. I would adjust it 1/4" at a time if possible back towards he tailgate. The installer put a rubber seal between he bed rails and the shell on mine so that's something to be mindful of. I'm unsure how that was done and what the seal is sticking to (the bed or the topper - or both). Good luck with your decision but I know I would personally take it to the installer and explain what's happening and see if they can adjust it rearward just a bit for me. Is it causing damage to the paint on the cab or shell?

 

[anduff]

Yes, I understand the issues and possible solution. I was more interested if you or anyone else experienced contact. I'm the installer as I bought it used. Im going to move it back just curious if the hatch will work correctly. Thanks

 

[MattK]

Yes, I understand the issues and possible solution. I was more interested if you or anyone else experienced contact. I'm the installer as I bought it used. Im going to move it back just curious if the hatch will work correctly. Thanks

Ah, sorry, I didn't follow through there and got rambling. ? I'm unsure if there's any adjustment in the rear window latch. Mine's pretty tight when closing it. I should probably have a look at that. Mine could use an 1/8" more room. As for a gap between the rear window seal and the tailgate unsure how much more the door will move towards the cab when closing to seal it. Might need some tailgate seal rubber or something to fill the small gap?

 

[JRobes]

Fyi, I bought a second hand ARE cap and added a 1/2" thick hollow rubber gasket to the rear glass's bottom lip to fill the gap between the glass and the tailgate... Worked well for me ?.

I also have a thicker rubber gasket tape (link below) between my cap and the bed, so that may have introduced a bit more of a gap than a flatter tape would have.

ESI Super Cap Seal 23 FT (1 1/2" Width x 1/2" Height x 23' Length) EPDM Rubber for Caps 200 lbs or Less https://a.co/d/3wKGtOj

 

[loganjeeps]

Just got my Gladiator and just joined the forum. Thanks to everyone for the posting info, very helpful, I've been snooping for a while until I got my rig. I'm 99% sure I'm going to get the ARE but had a couple questions for those running with it a while. I've owned many full size pickups but never put a cap on.

- Do you have visibility issues in rainy weather seeing out the back window ? (surprised no one offers a wiper option on the back glass)
- Any issues with the cap moving or getting out of position after a tough trail ride?

 

[ckgjt]

Just got my Gladiator and just joined the forum. Thanks to everyone for the posting info, very helpful, I've been snooping for a while until I got my rig. I'm 99% sure I'm going to get the ARE but had a couple questions for those running with it a while. I've owned many full size pickups but never put a cap on.

- Do you have visibility issues in rainy weather seeing out the back window ? (surprised no one offers a wiper option on the back glass)
- Any issues with the cap moving or getting out of position after a tough trail ride?

so really no issues with rain running down I do wax both glass- rear window and the one on the shell and it says relatively clean..I do have the flip down window on the shell which is a must have to keep the windows perfectly clean...I went with 3 clamps on each side to hold the shell down..;.no issues moving around but I do suggest you have the shell installer put two layers of weathstrip down to keep the shell rubbing the bedsides

 

[JRobes]

- Do you have visibility issues in rainy weather seeing out the back window ? (surprised no one offers a wiper option on the back glass)
- Any issues with the cap moving or getting out of position after a tough trail ride?

I bought a second hand ARE CX Classic without the front flip down window, and wish it did have it so it made cleaning the windows between the cap and cab easier, though from my experience those 2 panes don't get nearly as dirty as the cap's rear glass. Since my used price was so good I decided I can live with it. In the rain/fog yes the cap's rear glass can collect some haze, but it doesn't keep you from still seeing headlights and whatnot through it on a rainy night so it hasn't bothered me.

As far as the cap clamps, I have the bed utility rails and the ARE clamps that work with those and I have yet to notice any backing off/loosening of the clamp's bolts or shifting of the cap on the bed. Admittedly I'm mostly on-road so can't comment on how they'd fare after some rough roads/trails, but if you have concerns you can also through-bolt the cap directly to the top of your bed sides which is what I'd do if I was running down rough trails regularly. The plastic bed side caps are relatively cheap/easy to replace if you ever take the cap off and don't like there being holes in the plastic from those through-bolts. I'd bet that the cap tape I linked above also helps keep the cap situated firmly on my bed.

All in all if I were buying new, I'd probably opt for the ARE CX Revo so the rear glass can unlock with the truck's fob, though I don't think you can get the flip up side windows with that model. Mine does have the line-x spray on the exterior, and I've had no issues with that and would choose that again too, especially if you have a non-painted black hardtop. I'd also recommend the interior carpeting and led light strips, especially if you pair all that with a full bed rug like @ckgjt and I did.

Here's some pics of another member that has the full bedrug & ARE Classic Revo cap combo:
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/installed-bedrug.63773/post-1049120

 

[loganjeeps]

Thanks for the prompt replies gentlemen. Bed rug on the way already that was a no brainer.

I do like the option of opening with the truck keys on the Revo so thanks @JRobes for pointing that out as well.

 

[bd100]

Went camping in early Dec w/ cap w/ carpet roof and bedlilner. Added Reflectix in the windows and a 120V heater by cord running through the tailgate at the lower left corner near the hinge. Tip the tailgate halfway open and you'll see the perfect place for the cord. Small cube heater kept it plenty warm. Slept diagonally.

I do wish we had ordered the flip open side windows, though. The bed sides are low enough that they would have been nice to grab things from the cargo area.

I have a light colored cap to reduce solar heating in summer. I got the pet screens to help preserve the screen mesh and also slightly reduce the chance of someone trying to reach in to grab something if the screen is open.

Did some offroading and the cap stayed put. 3 clamps on each side. I also have a 20+ yr old truck with a cap which never shifted in all that time, including some offroad.

The back window can have rain and such on it. I mostly rely on the side mirrors. And on the 20yr old truck the windows at the back of the passenger area and the front of the cargo area never were a problem. I spray water in there when the truck is washed. I didn't get the flip down front window for the cap because I never had a problem with those windows in the older truck.

I chose the little battery powered overhead light to avoid any wiring issues. I have a battery lantern for more light if needed, and it sits nicely on the ledge in the corner.

For camping, I added some 1x4s to form a shelf for luggage. And a small porta potty fits in the corner with enough overhead room under the roof.

Coming from a 6 1/2' bed on a full size truck with enough room for two, the Gladiator is a bit small even for one, but it does work.

 

[loganjeeps]

Went camping in early Dec w/ cap w/ carpet roof and bedlilner. Added Reflectix in the windows and a 120V heater by cord running through the tailgate at the lower left corner near the hinge. Tip the tailgate halfway open and you'll see the perfect place for the cord. Small cube heater kept it plenty warm. Slept diagonally.

I do wish we had ordered the flip open side windows, though. The bed sides are low enough that they would have been nice to grab things from the cargo area.

I have a light colored cap to reduce solar heating in summer. I got the pet screens to help preserve the screen mesh and also slightly reduce the chance of someone trying to reach in to grab something if the screen is open.

Did some offroading and the cap staid put. 3 clamps on each side. I have a 20+ yr old truck with a cap which never shifted in all that time, including some offroad.

The back window can have rain and such on it. I mostly rely on the side mirrors. And on the 20yr old truck the windows at the back of the passenger area and the front of the cargo area never were a problem. I spray water in there when the truck is washed. I didn't get the flip down front window for the cap because I never had a problem with those windows in the older truck.

I chose the little battery powered overhead light to avoid any wiring issues. I have a battery lantern for more light if needed, and it sits nicely on the ledge in the corner.

For camping, I added some 1x4s to form a shelf for luggage. And a small porta potty fits in the corner with enough overhead room under the roof.

Coming from a 6 1/2' bed on a full size truck with enough room for two, the Gladiator is a bit small even for one, but it does work.

Thank you for the good ideas and info.

 

[KevinM60]

A couple months ago I added some tailgate seal to the bed and thought I'd share a little bit about it here since I wouldn't have done it without the topper.I purchased the following product from Amazon: ESI Ultimate Tailgate Seal 10'

Skill level: Easy!
Time: 30-1 hour (1 hour if you're constantly getting into the bed and shutting yourself in looking for hints of light - this means there's a gap!

I was skeptical and we'll see how long it lasts but so far so good! The directions are pretty spot on except where the tailgate corners are concerned. The Gladiator has rounded edges on the bottom and if you don't seal that don't bother with anything else. I noticed it during the install and there was a good amount of sunlight coming through that area on each bottom corner so watch out for that if you plan to use any kind of tailgate sealing strategy.

The pictures show a dirty bed but that's because I never cleaned it before putting the topper on. It has been out in the deserts of Anza Borrego and Ocotillo Wells with very little intrusion. I have not sealed any other area. I understand there are some holes along the lip of the bed above the wheel well area. I'll have a look at that next but it hasn't been noticeable.

Side seals are doing well. You can see where it's stopping the dust.

These rounded corners need to be sealed!

Passenger side and, again, you can see where it's stopping the dust.

This bottom edge is a concern as you have to figure out with the placement. The instructions say to try it .5" below the bed line. If you notices as you slowly close the tailgate that the seal is being rolled down due to the tailgate grabbing it you need to place it right up to the bed floor line as I have. The Line-X Bedliner will grab the seal and roll it down and possible remove the sticky backing. Place it as high up as you can and it won't be a problem. The other issue here is the wiring coming through the bed as you can see in the picture there's a spot where it bulges out but it hasn't been a problem.

Hope this helps someone wanting to do this. Any questions let me know!

Wheeling in SoCal tends to put a lot of dust under the cover so I've been looking at the best way to seal up the bed at the tailgate. The bottom part looks easy because the gap is only about 3/8" but the sides are wide open. I'm going to take a look tonight to see if this sealing will work but it looks like it could solve the problem. The only other method I saw that could work pretty good is to seal it from underneath with some of that 6" wide stripping. I have both stored in my amazon basket for future reference.

 

[MattK]

Wheeling in SoCal tends to put a lot of dust under the cover so I've been looking at the best way to seal up the bed at the tailgate. The bottom part looks easy because the gap is only about 3/8" but the sides are wide open. I'm going to take a look tonight to see if this sealing will work but it looks like it could solve the problem. The only other method I saw that could work pretty good is to seal it from underneath with some of that 6" wide stripping. I have both stored in my amazon basket for future reference.

The way I've done it for the sides in the photos is still going strong.

I have had to have the cap adjusted since I last posted because it was a little bit too far forward and the driver side top corners of the shell and hard top were contacting under extreme flex. It's now about a 1/4" further back on the driver's side and there's no more contact.

It seems like. Need to add some weather stripping along the camper shell door bottom edge where it contacts the tailgate. There's a small gap now so we'll see how that goes.

 

[KevinM60]

The way I've done it for the sides in the photos is still going strong.

I have had to have the cap adjusted since I last posted because it was a little bit too far forward and the driver side top corners of the shell and hard top were contacting under extreme flex. It's now about a 1/4" further back on the driver's side and there's no more contact.

It seems like. Need to add some weather stripping along the camper shell door bottom edge where it contacts the tailgate. There's a small gap now so we'll see how that goes.

After taking a good look at the side of the tailgate I can see how the stripping that you linked with the side strip will work to attach that part on the flat areas with the round part sitting right in the gap at the edge of the bed. Any of it that comes loose can be reattached with contact cement. Contact cement will also hold the rounded bottom corner in place.
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