ARE CX Classic Installed (MattK)

[KevinM60]

The way I've done it for the sides in the photos is still going strong.

I have had to have the cap adjusted since I last posted because it was a little bit too far forward and the driver side top corners of the shell and hard top were contacting under extreme flex. It's now about a 1/4" further back on the driver's side and there's no more contact.

It seems like. Need to add some weather stripping along the camper shell door bottom edge where it contacts the tailgate. There's a small gap now so we'll see how that goes.

After taking a good look at the side of the tailgate I can see how the stripping that you linked with the side strip will work to attach that part on the flat areas with the round part sitting right in the gap at the edge of the bed. Any of it that comes loose can be reattached with contact cement. Contact cement will also hold the rounded bottom corner in place.

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[Mohave37s]

Ordered: 04/15
Installed: 08/26

Options:

• Trim-less edge (only option)
• Aluminum Framed Tilt-Down Sliding Window (front)
• Outdoorsman Vented Windoor (both sides)
• Aluminum Framed Single T Door Standard Option
• Dark Gray Headliner (promotion)
• Interior Clothes Rod x4
• Roof Tracks Only
• It's clamped in using the Trail Rail system.

Reasoning:

• This is my first shell and this style is what I know and how to use.
• I like the way it looks better than the metal "overland" shells, there I said it - looks matter. This is my only vehicle therefore it's a daily driver that I take places not the other way around. I didn't want a bunch of crap hanging off it it all the time. I am an apartment dweller so taking all the things off and storing them when I'm not camping just isn't ideal for me.
• I've been sleeping in ground tents or the bed of trucks since I could drive. I see no reason to change that now given my living/storage situation. I have a Gazelle tent that sets up and tears down very quick, (even with guy lines for wind), that has proven itself camping across the country over an eight day trip though wind, rain, snow and ice (moving daily - except two days in Moab - to a new campgrounds/national parks during the heart of the pandemic last year).
• Besides the above detail I mostly "base camp" for at least a few days before moving on so a ground tent or sleeping out of the bed is fine. Yes, it's a 5' bed but I'm a side sleeper and curl up anyway. Been doing this since my Mexico surf trips back in the early 90s in my Ranger, (no shell).
• Aluminum Framed Tilt-Down Sliding Window (front): Wanted to be able to get at the rear glass on the Gladiator to clean it. Small passthrough for things.
• Outdoorsman Vented Windoor (both sides): A buddy of mine has this option on his Leer and it's invaluable to get at things, leave them open to get air in the back, if you're hanging out in there out of the sun on a siesta, etc.
• Aluminum Framed Single T Door Standard Option: I asked the dealer what the stronger option was between the single and double handle and they said the single. That said, the windoors are double with no other option.
• Dark Gray Headliner (promotion): This seems to be a default promotion they run for getting the shell. It looks good! I imagine if you got the grey BedRug kit for the tub it would look really nice depending on your intended use. My Gladiator came with the factory Line-X sprayed in.
• Interior Clothes Rod x4: These are spring loaded handles that you pull out of their compartment in the ceiling of the shell. I had them put one in each corner. You can use them to hang stuff from, run a tie-down or something between them to create a clothes line type situation to hang things from, maybe have netting from them so you have some overhead storage across the entire shell, who knows? If they never get used they aren't going to interfere with anything that I know of.
• Roof Tracks Only: I don't like the rack options the dealer had and not sure if I want a rack. The dynamic limit on these tracks is unknown. The dealer will be very vague about it. Their paraphrased response to me was it depends on the rack you install and that manufacturers dynamic load limit. The response was shady at best as they wouldn't sell an HD version if the roof tracks were that good. I wouldn't put more than 100 lbs. on the roof tracks personally and that might be pushing it. Firewood, other things you don't want in the bed for some reason but nothing like a roof top tent. This is my personal opinion - not fact. Do as you please at your own risk.
• Weight: ARE's website says it's maybe 175 lbs. (Full & Mid Short Bed line)

My Opinions:

• Trail Rail clamps: They situated the shell on mine so the back lines up with the tailgate. This means it's also much closer to the hard top and looks good. You will see a lot of pictures of the shell installed on this forum where it's misaligned in the back, (hanging over), and after holding the installer hostage as we did a walkthrough I think I got to the bottom of why this is. If it's clamped in using the Trail Rail system there is a limit as to how far something can be inserted into the Trail Rail towards the front of the bed. There are metal plates in the shell where the clamp is supposed to clamp down on instead of contacting the fiberglass. This cannot be done properly due to the Trail Rail system limitations at the front and rear of the rail as it has notches so you can insert the tie down clamps into the rail. So, I think installers push the shell back some to allow for the clamp to contact the metal plate instead of fiberglass to secure it. My installer lined up the shell but this means my front clamps are contacting fiberglass and not the metal plates. Installer said this "should be okay". We'll see. (I've seen this misalignment complaint from others here and I think that's why the installer does this.)
• Fit and Finish:
  • Paint match is excellent.
  • They had to add extra rubber seal/padding to the bottom of the shell to give it a slight lift off the bed sides as if they didn't it would rub on the paint along the sides of the bed. The overhang on the sides seems to be too much for the Gladiator and a couple other models of truck where this is needed to avoid damage to the paint. This must be a somewhat generic shell mold for a bunch of models otherwise they would correct this I would think?
  • Along the tailgate left and right edges of the shell there is not a clean finish. There is a rough cut and fiberglass threads,(or some other material), hanging out instead of having a rubber trim edge being installed to clean it up. Lazy. I've seen this complaint from others.
  • It looks excellent and I got what I paid for.
• Durability: Can't comment on this. Just shy of a month of ownership and it hasn't faced any off-road abuse yet. Washboord trails in the desert etc. We'll see if I have to figure out a new system to secure it after those types of scenarios happen. I'd hate to drill the bed rails to secure it with bolts so we'll see. I wonder why they don't build a lip that goes over the bed rails into the bed maybe one inch to help keep it in place, (at least side to side and dynamic forces that would push it forward into the cab).
• Ride: The Rubicon rides mushy to begin with and this did not change the ride quality to anything worse than it is that I can tell. It also has not changed the ride height that I can tell. I did not do before/after measurements as it didn't matter, I was getting it anyway. I plan to replace the suspension at some point. I've had AEV suspensions in the past and might go that way again with the 2.5" but there's also the Mopar 2" although I'm unsure if it's the same ride quality the Rubicon already exhibits but lifted, ie. not good in my opinion. I do not like the factory Rubicon ride, it's mushy and seems to fight itself between front and rear and corners, (before and after shell was installed). I've owned many trucks and this is by far the most bizarre ride to me. However it is the first truck I've owned without rear leaf springs. Loved the AEV 3.5" lift on my JKR so I'm leaning that way.

Obligatory picture:

I'll update this post if anything else comes up.

If you have any questions about the shell or would like to see any other pictures of it let me know. Happy to help.

edit: Added weight from another post since I was being asked multiple times.

How are the lights hooked up on yours and do you have the keyless entry setup as well?

 

[MattK]

How are the lights hooked up on yours

I did not option lights on the topper. I have the OEM bed lighting and hang some GoalZero crush lights from the interior clothes rod handles if I need to.

and do you have the keyless entry setup as well?

The CX Classic does not have the keyless entry setup. I think that's the CX EVO?

 

[Mr.Wilson]

This is the quote I just got for a topper. Prices just keep climbing I guess.

A.R.E. Model: CX Classic

Your Cap Build:
• OTR Option: Yes
• Interior Carpet: Dark Gray Headliner
• Front Window: Aluminum Framed Tilt-Down Sliding Window
• Side Window: Outdoorsman Vented Windoor
• Rear Door: Aluminum Framed Single T Door
• Roof Rack: Roof Tracks Only

Your Cost*: Cost for the CX cap $3856.00 plus $295.00 for the tracks only. Total $4151.00 plus tax. This includes the shipping, installation, wiring and all discounts.

 

[Mr.Wilson]

Will these work with the rails on an A.R.E CX Classic cap?

will these work with the rails on an A.R.E CX Classic cap?

 

[MattK]

Will these work with the rails on an A.R.E CX Classic cap?

will these work with the rails on an A.R.E CX Classic cap?

Here's what was used to get my Rhino Rack platform installed on the topper. They did use RLT600 parts it looks like.

 

[loganjeeps]

This is the quote I just got for a topper. Prices just keep climbing I guess.

Ouch. This is still top of my list to add to mine too but that hurts. Assume that is a quote from the NY area?

 

[Mr.Wilson]

Ouch. This is still top of my list to add to mine too but that hurts. Assume that is a quote from the NY area?

Yes sir it is. I was also told that ARE is increasing their prices next month. I went with a modular bed rack from VooDoo Fabrications instead. Won’t be water tight but there’s other ways around that I guess.

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