Ask your junkyard axle swap questions

[Demlockian]

I’m wrapping up a 99-04 Dana 60 and 99-06 14 Bolt swap on my 2023 Gladiator. Soon, I will be posting a separate thread to cover all the technical aspects (build sheet). However, I would like to address as many of your questions as possible in the initial draft, so please ask away so I can incorporate them all.

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[Hootbro]

What is the cost outlay doing it yourself vs. buying off the shelf built? That also means any other items needed to make it a true bolt in, I.E. new driveshafts, adapters, hardware and like.

How many man hours you have into it as a complete project to install?

What other incidentals did you have to address that were not planned for?

 

[Rusty PW]

What is the cost outlay doing it yourself vs. buying off the shelf built? That also means any other items needed to make it a true bolt in, I.E. new driveshafts, adapters, hardware and like.

How many man hours you have into it as a complete project to install?

What other incidentals did you have to address that were not planned for?

Inquiring minds want to know.

 

[Demlockian]

Q1 - What is the cost outlay doing it yourself vs. buying off the shelf built?
My total parts cost, including axles and trusses (which are NOT factored into built-in axles), was about $9,000. To buy axles from Fusion 4x4 it would be about $19,000 (Fusion Elite KP 60 & 14 Bolt), then another $1,500 for trusses (not including labor to install). If you factor in the ability to resell the factory Mojave axles for about $3,000, it's literally cheaper to build won-tons.

Q2 - That also means any other items needed to make it a true bolt in, I.E. new driveshafts, adapters, hardware and like.
Driveshafts are about $2,200, wheels around $950, and steering is around $180.

Q3 - How many man hours you have into it as a complete project to install?
The front axle took me 4 days to strip, truss, gear, and build. Add another day to remove the factory axle and install the Dana 60. I'm starting the 14-bolt next weekend and can update later (expecting around the same timeframe).

Q4 - What other incidentals did you have to address that were not planned for?
Outside of general shop tools, everything so far has fallen into place as planned.

These are great questions, and I will incorporate more Indepth answers into the build thread when I post it in a week or so. That thread will be detailed on every part, process, costs, benefits, etc... I'm aiming to gather as much information as possible to prevent a fifty-page thread people have to read through to find the answers about this swap.

 

[Demlockian]

Old axle out and new going in! Spent about 2 hours removing the old axle.

 

[NylesR87]

This thread is such perfect timing!!

I have a 21’ JLURD and I’m looking at building axles from a 05+ Super Duty. I can’t do the fab work myself but my local shop will be helping me with that. When I talked with them they seemed to think we can build a set for much cheaper than buying a set of crate axles.
I can get a set of axles from my junkyard for $800 for a 2012+ with the factory e locker. My shop guy thought going with a newer SD axle would be better. I just can’t find anyone running a set newer than 05’
So I’m not even sure it’s possible with the newer SD axle with a

I’m trying to make a master list for parts and where to get them. If you can provide where you got your parts from and’s what all is needed that would be so awesome.
Thanks!

 

[Demlockian]

The newer 05+ axles don’t have a plug n play ABS solution like the older 99-04 models (they can use Currie unit bearings).

 

[NylesR87]

The newer 05+ axles don’t have a plug n play ABS solution like the older 99-04 models (they can use Currie unit bearings).

Good to know, I wonder if there is a solution for the 05+ ABS swap portion

*edit https://www.rocksolidfab.com/products

Is that why you chose the years you did?

 

[Demlockian]

Yes, I went with a 99-04 axle due to ABS / sensors (it’s your traction control, ABS, and speed). The Rock Solid tone rings I have heard both good and bad about. With a newer Jeep, I didn’t want to deal with driveability issues.

The biggest drawback to the 99-04 axle is the 30 spline outers (vs 35 on the 05+). However, with the Currie bearings you actually upgrade the outers to 35 spline.

The housing is also a tad bigger diameter with thicker tubes. However, who is breaking a trussed housing? Also, the WMS gets pretty crazy with the 05+.

 

[NylesR87]

Yes, I went with a 99-04 axle due to ABS / sensors (it’s your traction control, ABS, and speed). The Rock Solid tone rings I have heard both good and bad about. With a newer Jeep, I didn’t want to deal with driveability issues.

The biggest drawback to the 99-04 axle is the 30 spline outers (vs 35 on the 05+). However, with the Currie bearings you actually upgrade the outers to 35 spline.

The housing is also a tad bigger diameter with thicker tubes. However, who is breaking a trussed housing? Also, the WMS gets pretty crazy with the 05+.

Thank you, I appreciate your Time and input.

Because this is my daily as well as my weekend warrior on road drivability is equally important to me as off-road capability.

 

[Demlockian]

Thank you, I appreciate your Time and input.

Because this is my daily as well as my weekend warrior on road drivability is equally important to me as off-road capability.

Based on that need, I would recommend the 99-04 with Currie bearings. It’s a sealed OEM style unit. The Rock Solid rings are mounted externally and will be sensitive to water/mud/dirt/etc…

I spoke with a prominent off road shop that has done hundreds of axle swaps and they refused to sell/use Rock Solid due to reliability issues. Not saying the stuff don’t work, just what I was told. That’s what led me to drop the 05+ idea and instead went with 99-04 (not to mention the 99-04 is easier to build).

 

[NylesR87]

Based on that need, I would recommend the 99-04 with Currie bearings. It’s a sealed OEM style unit. The Rock Solid rings are mounted externally and will be sensitive to water/mud/dirt/etc…

I spoke with a prominent off road shop that has done hundreds of axle swaps and they refused to sell/use Rock Solid due to reliability issues. Not saying the stuff don’t work, just what I was told. That’s what led me to drop the 05+ idea and instead went with 99-04 (not to mention the 99-04 is easier to build).

Excellent info, thank you so much

 

[NylesR87]

My big concern is I’ve got a Clayton 2.5” Lift Kit, I’m really hoping I won’t need a new lift. That’ll change my time frame if so. We just put a Metalcloak lift kit on my wife’s diesel gladiator. It’s such a nice kit, I’m a bit jealous.

 

[Demlockian]

If you use the Artec truss kit, you will be able to use your lift without changing components (bump stops may need to be added due to larger axle/bracket placements). My Gladiator is running a Synergy 4-inch short arm lift and went together without issue (will be upgrading to custom long arm and coilover/bypass shock with trailing arm eventually).

The only deviation I made from the Artec kit was to re-drill the shock mounts as I have a Mojave, which required larger holes (shocks replaced with Accutune Fox 2.5 DSC shocks with 12" stroke).

 

[NylesR87]

If you use the Artec truss kit, you will be able to use your lift without changing components (bump stops may need to be added due to larger axle/bracket placements). My Gladiator is running a Synergy 4-inch short arm lift and went together without issue (will be upgrading to custom long arm and coilover/bypass shock with trailing arm eventually).

The only deviation I made from the Artec kit was to re-drill the shock mounts as I have a Mojave, which required larger holes (shocks replaced with Accutune Fox 2.5 DSC shocks with 12" stroke).

I’m running the same shocks, not sure of the stroke tho.

It would be nice to keep the COG lower on my build so if I can get the Clayton kit to work that would be nice. My wallet will thank me too lol

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