Bed outlet

[SargeDiesel]

Not totally clear unless you key in on the word "draw" - he's comparing the input side to the output side. Draw on the 12 volt input side - the size of wire needed for that compared to the size wire running from the inverter to the AC device.

400 watts at 12 volts would pull ~ 33 amps.
On the output or 110 volt side, 400 watts is only ~ 3.6 (or round to 4 amps)

Those are round numbers because when things are running you are over 12 volts on the input side unless they regulate the input voltage on the Jeep factory install.
So 400 watts at 13 volts would only be ~31 amps - still heavy wire is needed (you can buy really good stuff in those gauges on Amazon)
On the output side, if it's regulated at 120 volts output, 400 watts is only a bit over 3 amps - so you can run almost any extension cord from the inverter to the device you want to power via 120 VAC.
More efficient to keep the inverter close to the 12 volt power source (batteries, alternator, etc. up front) and run an extension cord than put the inverter clear in the back and have to handle 30+ amps.
It's why transmission lines along the street run high voltage even though the house is only fed 120 volts per leg.
Smaller, lighter, cheaper wire with high voltages/low amperage vs. low voltage/high amperage.

Thanks bud... so for clarification, he was speaking of the gauge of wire needed on the input ( battery to inverter) compared to the output(inverter to outlet) ?

Thanks Papa... always helpful ?

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[RubiNewbCB]

Do the AUX Switches have constant power, even when the vehicle is shutdown? My understanding is that the console inverter shuts down after the vehicle AUX power cuts off. Which AUX switch would be best used for 12VDC outlets in the bed.

 

[JRobes]

12V DC power takes much thicker wire to efficiently/safely transfer it over long cable runs vs 120 VAC due to the higher amps required for DC. So you can strategically locate your inverter in the vehicle (closer to the battery) to take advantage of this.

If you locate the inverter close to the battery, your DC cable run to the inverter's input is relatively short vs running it all the way to the back of the jeep, thus requiring thinner gage wire saving you upfront cost. Like ShadowsPapa said, you then just run any old extension cable from the inverter output to your bedside.

If you locate the inverter closer to the bed, you have that roughly 20' of cable trying to transmit DC power from the battery to the inverter at higher amps which will require substantially larger diameter wire (cost).

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Do the AUX Switches have constant power, even when the vehicle is shutdown? My understanding is that the console inverter shuts down after the vehicle AUX power cuts off. Which AUX switch would be best used for 12VDC outlets in the bed.

The aux switches can be programmed to be on all the time, even with engine off, or only when in ACC mode or higher (like running)
Read the book, please - it explains how the aux switches can be made to operate - latching, momentary, remember last position, battery or ACC power and so on.
You can mix and match, some can be configured to be used via battery power - all the time power, or only when the ignition switch is on to at least ACC position.


The inverter does shut down because any time it's running, even without a load, it's a parasitic draw on the system. So it does shut down completely with truck power-down.

I used #2 for controlling the 12 volt power back to the 12v and USB ports I installed in the back of my truck. Technically you can have them hot all the time, but I wanted to be able to shut power off to that large wire that goes back to those connections, in case of a side hit, etc.
My Aux switch is configured to be able to turn on the 12v outlet and USB charge-only ports I installed back there any time, engine off, middle of the nigh, whatever.
I camp in my truck so it's nice to have the USB charge ports powered up while I sleep near my phone and hearing aid charger (which operates off USB power to charge them)
When all done, tent taken down, things packed up I turn off the power to those rear ports by turning off aux switch 2.

Again, I see reading through posts you are best off taking it to an automotive stereo installer, that sort of business, and let them do it correctly. Electric power is not for guessing. Too many cars and trucks have been burned to a crisp by the side of the road due to "anyone can do it" attitudes of today's society.

 

[RubiNewbCB]

Again, I see reading through posts you are best off taking it to an automotive stereo installer, that sort of business, and let them do it correctly.

Thanks for the response and the great info ShadowsPapa.
I may not be an Electrical Engineer, but I have slept in a Holiday Inn Express... This may be my first jeep, but I've been modifying/Building/DIY'n vehicles for more than 27 years and haven't had one burn down yet. But, there's always a first time for everything. I'm here to learn from the Old Salts that have Jeep experience and sage wisdom to provide guidance to prevent MISHAPs. Afterall, Safety is written in blood.

 

[Kevin_D]

Not totally clear unless you key in on the word "draw" - he's comparing the input side to the output side. Draw on the 12 volt input side - the size of wire needed for that compared to the size wire running from the inverter to the AC device.

400 watts at 12 volts would pull ~ 33 amps.
On the output or 110 volt side, 400 watts is only ~ 3.6 (or round to 4 amps)

Those are round numbers because when things are running you are over 12 volts on the input side unless they regulate the input voltage on the Jeep factory install.
So 400 watts at 13 volts would only be ~31 amps - still heavy wire is needed (you can buy really good stuff in those gauges on Amazon)
On the output side, if it's regulated at 120 volts output, 400 watts is only a bit over 3 amps - so you can run almost any extension cord from the inverter to the device you want to power via 120 VAC.
More efficient to keep the inverter close to the 12 volt power source (batteries, alternator, etc. up front) and run an extension cord than put the inverter clear in the back and have to handle 30+ amps.
It's why transmission lines along the street run high voltage even though the house is only fed 120 volts per leg.
Smaller, lighter, cheaper wire with high voltages/low amperage vs. low voltage/high amperage.

Yup, that's what I was getting at.
Also, inverters are not 100% efficient: 400W out will take more than 400W in.
As a rough rule-of-thumb, Volts x Amps = Power.

Kevin

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Yup, that's what I was getting at.
Also, inverters are not 100% efficient: 400W out will take more than 400W in.
As a rough rule-of-thumb, Volts x Amps = Power.

Kevin

Yeah, the numbers range from 75% for cheapies to 95% but even that varies with the input voltage.

And it's silly to use an inverter to power something that can natively take 12 VDC to power it. Why convert to 120 VAC then back again in the device or a power supply for that device.
If it will run on 12VDC, then run it on that.

 

[RubiNewbCB]

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Just look at the photos that others, and I, have posted over the last coupe of years - no need to watch videos.
That's my beef with videos - a lot of time spent not doing........

Buy the bits you want or need on Amazon.
You can buy them with a panel, but the panel has a lot of wasted space between the outlets and so on, so I made my own panel putting the outlets and switch and volt meter closer together.
I crimped the ends on the wire I used, and use dielectric compound/grease on all connections. Usually doesn't even get wet up there, just really dusty.

Had to trim the truck bed a bit because even spaced really close together in my own panel, the hole in the truck bed wasn't quite enough.
Figure your largest load, figure the wire size and be generous - not conservative on choosing wire. If it's on the edge of one gauge with your amperage draw, go up a gauge.
I can't see anyone using 2 12v outlets as that sort of draw if using them at the same time would require some hefty wire. I just did one. Two USB charging ports in one terminal. The switch isn't really necessary if you run through one of the aux switches or some other type switch. I didn't want a wire back there with 12 volts and the amperage capacity live all the time so went through aux 2. I did want a volt meter so I could see at a glance if I was sucking too much from the truck batteries.

I made the panel from acrylic, didn't do a great job as you can see - it's really amateurish, especially the bevel on the upper left, that sucks. I used a textured paint, then blue over that, to give it a finish that sort of goes along with the rough bed liner.

I made my panel, then transferred the device spacing to a wood block, drilled pilot holes to guide a hole saw. I secured the block to the bed, used a hole saw to cut the truck bed to clear the electric outlets, volt meter, etc.
If I trade or sell, I can still pop the factory block/cover back over the hole after removing my electronics. May have to glue it in place - oh, well.

The 12v outlet can be used to charge many different power supplies. Or in my case, used for a light, cooler, whatever. The USB ports charge my phone and hearing aids while I sleep in the back of the truck with a truck tent.

Charge one of these while you drive, or couple it with solar panels, as talked about in the solar panel thread several experienced people have commented on........

 

[SD Rider]

I made the panel from acrylic, didn't do a great job as you can see - it's really amateurish, especially the bevel on the upper left, that sucks. I used a textured paint, then blue over that, to give it a finish that sort of goes along with the rough bed liner.

I made my panel, then transferred the device spacing to a wood block, drilled pilot holes to guide a hole saw. I secured the block to the bed, used a hole saw to cut the truck bed to clear the electric outlets, volt meter, etc.
If I trade or sell, I can still pop the factory block/cover back over the hole after removing my electronics. May have to glue it in place - oh, well.

Dang! I was hoping you 3D printed it. That Youtube video shows a link to download from their site, but they've removed that link and are selling the print for $50. Way too much for a simple design and print.

Thanks for showing, as that is exactly what I'm looking for...12VDC to the bed. 30A, but am going to use 8AWG, in case it pulls more or if I want to add something else.

Currently just going to power an air compressor with a tank...onboard air, but not permanent mount. I can flip the switch and have it fill the tank on the way to the road, so it will be ready.

*EDIT* Found the download for a single. Need to modify it for 4 holes.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5739703/

@ShadowsPapa When you did your 4 hole outlet, is there enough room in the bedside or do I need to make an extension also?

 

[mickypicky]

Hello. New member here. I think I have your old Jeep. I went looking for what was in that hole in my bed and started googling pictures of Jeep bed outlets and found these pictures. Small world. Nice work btw.

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