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Cam, rockers, and lash adjusters at 39k miles.

TCheek

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I never said 200 was bad. I had been running cooler in earlier posts and wanted people to know that with the warmer weather I am seeing an increase in temperature. 200 is probably about perfect seeing as the coolant runs about 190 on average and the oil is cooled with that.
I stated in my post that the brand has nothing to do with it being better, only the ZDDP which is limited to 800ppm in API certified oils do to the effect it has on catalysts. To increase oil film retention, I chose to go with an oil that has an increased amount of ZDDP. The race oils from any reputable brand are likely just as good (Project Farm on YouTube actually proved Ams oil is marginally better than RP). I chose to go purple.
As far as the ZDDP content is concerned it really is only better because the high lift rockers and cam lobes (whether engaged or not) slide against each other instead of roll.
I'm not trying to debate engine temps. I will be towing around 4k in a trailer. I want to do everything possible to keep the engine and drivetrain as cool as possible. I understand manual shifting the auto 8 speed, and watching rpms. I hope the cooldown function set to manual with the tazer mini will help too. I like the thoughts of changing oil types. I just past my warranty mileage so I am open to anything to extend the life and capability of my gladiator.
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ShadowsPapa

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I'm not trying to debate engine temps. I will be towing around 4k in a trailer. I want to do everything possible to keep the engine and drivetrain as cool as possible. I understand manual shifting the auto 8 speed, and watching rpms. I hope the cooldown function set to manual with the tazer mini will help too. I like the thoughts of changing oil types. I just past my warranty mileage so I am open to anything to extend the life and capability of my gladiator.
Some of what you're talking may well shorten engine life.
"Watching RPM" isn't necessarily good. You do not want to try to force lower RPM. That can lead to excessive chamber temperatures and extra heat and load. These are made to wind up.
Apparently you don't understand manual shifting and "watching RPMs" - I let mine wind up - 3000s and 4000s when needed, what I don't allow is a constant up/down/up/down shifting in our hills. So I cut some of that back with manual shifting only when needed, otherwise, let it wind up.
Manual shifting is used to prevent excessive "hunting" or shifting when in automatic mode in hills. Not to force lower RPM.
Changing oil types is something few understand - and can also lead to shorter engine lift.
Higher viscosity can lead to more oil sheer, and higher oil temperatures in the bearings and at friction surfaces. Higher viscosity can also mean slower oil movement - which leads to higher oil temperatures.
15,000,000 of these out there, many with 100,000 miles or more trouble-free, running on the recommended oil.

My understanding of the 'cool down" function of the tazer is to keep the fan running for a short time after shut down. Helps with heat soak, but not while driving.
 
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NoDucksGiven

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I'm not trying to debate engine temps. I will be towing around 4k in a trailer. I want to do everything possible to keep the engine and drivetrain as cool as possible. I understand manual shifting the auto 8 speed, and watching rpms. I hope the cooldown function set to manual with the tazer mini will help too. I like the thoughts of changing oil types. I just past my warranty mileage so I am open to anything to extend the life and capability of my gladiator.
I agree with shadow on this one. Let the transmission do what is wants unless it keeps shifting back and forth while cruising on flat ground. Then force it into the lower of the two gears, or lower your speed to keep it in the lower. Watch your transmission temps. If you have made it this far without issues just keep running stock oil.
I doubt you will have issues with engine oil temps, the water to oil cooler works pretty well. Just towed my camper (4k lbs) this weekend and it hung around 210 cruising at 75 in 4th gear 3k RPM.

The automatic trans is supposed to be able to handle like 7k.
 

ShadowsPapa

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I agree with shadow on this one. Let the transmission do what is wants unless it keeps shifting back and forth while cruising on flat ground. Then force it into the lower of the two gears, or lower your speed to keep it in the lower. Watch your transmission temps. If you have made it this far without issues just keep running stock oil.
I doubt you will have issues with engine oil temps, the water to oil cooler works pretty well. Just towed my camper (4k lbs) this weekend and it hung around 210 cruising at 75 in 4th gear 3k RPM.

The automatic trans is supposed to be able to handle like 7k.
Yeah, even the owners manual (go back a few years in your time machine kids, yes, they DO exist!) and in the towing pages, it talks of using manual to prevent constant shifting or "hunting" as us old guys say. That back and forth allows for slippage as it's changing gears - leading to heat. Best to keep it in a gear that works for the road you are on and the load you are towing than let it constantly go up and down up and down.
The engineers accounted for what they call heat rejection as far as the engine - they have things tuned pretty well so that at xxx torque from the engine vs. road speed and so on, it's going to be in the best heat rejection area.
But I tow 5,000 pounds and only run 65 mph - our hills are stupid crazy (I contacted the Iowa DOT and got the grades for I80 east of Altoona over toward Iowa City).
When you see the OTR guys constantly shifting down, up, down, up and see the black rolling out of the stacks - what's that mean to some of us?
It can be a real bottleneck there because one pulls out to pass another and oops, up comes a hill and he has to downshift again, falling back a bit, then down the hill up-shift, gain some speed almost around the other guy, then crap, another big hill and he falls back again. In the meantime, 100 cars are stacked up in both lanes furious, honking, wanting to get around and for miles and miles no one can pass. You are stuck.
 

hepcat

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But I tow 5,000 pounds and only run 65 mph - our hills are stupid crazy (I contacted the Iowa DOT and got the grades for I80 east of Altoona over toward Iowa City).
WHAT? EVERYONE knows that Iowa is flat! Just ask anyone who's ridden in RAGBRAI!

We live 35 miles NE of Iowa City and our son lives in Des Moines on the border with WDM... we've made that Iowa City-'Tuna run many, MANY times. I don't know what the grades are exactly, but some of them are pretty steep... especially around Newton.
 

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TCheek

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Yeah, even the owners manual (go back a few years in your time machine kids, yes, they DO exist!) and in the towing pages, it talks of using manual to prevent constant shifting or "hunting" as us old guys say. That back and forth allows for slippage as it's changing gears - leading to heat. Best to keep it in a gear that works for the road you are on and the load you are towing than let it constantly go up and down up and down.
The engineers accounted for what they call heat rejection as far as the engine - they have things tuned pretty well so that at xxx torque from the engine vs. road speed and so on, it's going to be in the best heat rejection area.
But I tow 5,000 pounds and only run 65 mph - our hills are stupid crazy (I contacted the Iowa DOT and got the grades for I80 east of Altoona over toward Iowa City).
When you see the OTR guys constantly shifting down, up, down, up and see the black rolling out of the stacks - what's that mean to some of us?
It can be a real bottleneck there because one pulls out to pass another and oops, up comes a hill and he has to downshift again, falling back a bit, then down the hill up-shift, gain some speed almost around the other guy, then crap, another big hill and he falls back again. In the meantime, 100 cars are stacked up in both lanes furious, honking, wanting to get around and for miles and miles no one can pass. You are stuck.
Thanks y’all. I’m 60 and my old f150 is 20 yrs old with 221000 miles and knock on wood still going. This gladiator is a different beast for me. The operating temperature is higher than I’m used to and I’m used to an 8 cylinder instead of a v6. I’m confident the gladiator will tow for me. I’m not confident that I know enough about towing with the gladiator to not cause damage. Y’all are helping more than you know.
 

ShadowsPapa

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WHAT? EVERYONE knows that Iowa is flat! Just ask anyone who's ridden in RAGBRAI!

We live 35 miles NE of Iowa City and our son lives in Des Moines on the border with WDM... we've made that Iowa City-'Tuna run many, MANY times. I don't know what the grades are exactly, but some of them are pretty steep... especially around Newton.
LOL
Dang, I'm REALLY preachin' to the choir!
There was a cafe in Altoona called Al Tuna years ago. your 'Tuna comment made me laugh and think of that place.
Go south out of Melcher-Dallas toward Chariton. You'd be shifting every 5 seconds. Steep and really short hills.
Melcher and Dallas, now combined, were coal mining country - the coal trains had to stop outside of town for loading and unloading otherwise they couldn't get moving again.
 
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Thanks y’all. I’m 60 and my old f150 is 20 yrs old with 221000 miles and knock on wood still going. This gladiator is a different beast for me. The operating temperature is higher than I’m used to and I’m used to an 8 cylinder instead of a v6. I’m confident the gladiator will tow for me. I’m not confident that I know enough about towing with the gladiator to not cause damage. Y’all are helping more than you know.
I towed a 6k# wakeboard boat with mine. Kept it at about 60 and it did fine. I wouldn't worry too much about pulling 4k. The max tow version is rated for 7k or something. I'm not sure if they have 4.10s in the diff but if mine is rated for 4k with the lame stock clutch, yours is certainly capable of pulling 4k with the automatic.
 

TCheek

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Mine has the standard tow package rated at 6k. Thank you for the encouragement.
 

TCheek

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It's been a few months since my last post. I understand more about my Gladiator's mini-tazer functions, towing capacity, and driving skills. I do appreciate the input from this forum. Merry Christmas to all.
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