Check engine light 20k miles P026C code

[OFame1904]

Hello all, So my 21 Ecodiesel and Rubicon an Gladiator check engine light came on at 20 K miles. The dealer said it was a problem with a fuel injector but called me today to come and pick it up and said it was the fuel filter causing the issue which they replaced. On my way home the check engine light came on again, So now I’m on my way back to the dealer. Have any of you experienced or heard of any issues with the fuel injector?

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[Glad_he_ate]

Shitty !

 

[OFame1904]

So the latest claim from the dealer is it could be a possible 02 sensor. I’ll keep y’all posted.

 

[OLAF 4X4]

So the latest claim from the dealer is it could be a possible 02 sensor. I’ll keep y’all posted.

Any update I am throwing the same code? Thanks!

 

[Gladiator_92]

Check that your fuses are fully seated and more importantly that the plug on your ecm is down all the way. I was getting CELs and turns out my ecm wiring was not fully seated. Only by about an 1/8 inch as well.

 

[OLAF 4X4]

Check that your fuses are fully seated and more importantly that the plug on your ecm is down all the way. I was getting CELs and turns out my ecm wiring was not fully seated. Only by about an 1/8 inch as well.

Checked the fuses today and seated all of them. Can you help me with the location of the ECM so I can check it? Thank you for your help!

 

[Gladiator_92]

Checked the fuses today and seated all of them. Can you help me with the location of the ECM so I can check it? Thank you for your help!

No problem. It's right in front of the fuse box. Here is a picture of mine. You can see the harness on the right side wasnt fully seated. That's all it took...

 

[kickingaz]

Resurrecting this post as my '21 JTRD threw the P026C code last month and we cleared it. Everything was fine for about a month and then it just returned. Any further research and/or repairs for this? I watched a couple videos that referred to this as a "nuisance code" and to reset it. I have not been to the dealer yet but will be calling them Monday.

 

[Dougstdig]

A recall just came out on the fuel pump eating itself from the inside, which may cause fragments to clog the lines or injectors. Since OP indicated the original code came back to a fuel injector I’d have concern if you have the Diesel.

The kicker is, it’s a German part, repairs aren’t supposed to be scheduled until 12-3-22 and there are no replacement parts available. Don’t know if it’s related to the war or what, but it sucks for all of us.

 

[kickingaz]

@Dougstdig, thanks for the info. I did see that recall and noted parts are not available. I did not know that the P026C error was treated by this recall. Of course mine is an 02/21 build date, right in the middle of this issue. I followed-up on the website, but I believe I will call my dealer on Monday morning to be one of the first in line when (if) parts arrive. Thanks for the help.

 

[Dougstdig]

@Dougstdig, thanks for the info. I did see that recall and noted parts are not available. I did not know that the P026C error was treated by this recall. Of course mine is an 02/21 build date, right in the middle of this issue. I followed-up on the website, but I believe I will call my dealer on Monday morning to be one of the first in line when (if) parts arrive. Thanks for the help.

No problem at all. I’m not saying this is a direct result, but…if the Po26C is an injector code, which is down stream, better be safe than sorry. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[Sandevino]

This code relates to fuel quantity lower than expected which can be a cause or effect of many many things. Checking fuses and the ECM are good to ensure you’re not chasing a large loose connection. If all that checks, make sure you have quality fuel, a recent fuel filter change and drain the water out of the separator or validate there is none.

Next check your air filter to make sure it’s clean and verify the housing is as well. Check for air intake leaks prior to the turbo - this is from the air box to the intercooler and all pre-turbo piping. Check the large pressure clamp on the turbo inlet piping joint above the engine. Ensure all band clamps are tight and there‘s nothing loose or damaged.

Now turn your attention to the engine. Remove the cover and molded foam sound deadening valve covers. Get a good look at the diesel common rail, injector lines, injector couplers and the top of the valve covers. Look for any grease, oil or diesel any any wet spots.

If all the visual inspections pass, you need to look at the injectors with a diesel OBD2 scan tool or an app like Torque or OBD Fusion with vehicle specific PID’s. I‘d want to see the rail pressure target, current rail pressure and fuel pump pressure. Normal readings are 3916 psi, 3850 psi and 72 psi respectively at idle. These will increase with RPM, speed and load but should remain relative to each other. Ideally, the rail pressure is within 98% of the target pressure indicating no blockages. Higher or much lower active pressure indicates a potential fuel delivery issue.

 

[Rusty PW]

This code relates to fuel quantity lower than expected which can be a cause or effect of many many things. Checking fuses and the ECM are good to ensure you’re not chasing a large loose connection. If all that checks, make sure you have quality fuel, a recent fuel filter change and drain the water out of the separator or validate there is none.

Next check your air filter to make sure it’s clean and verify the housing is as well. Check for air intake leaks prior to the turbo - this is from the air box to the intercooler and all pre-turbo piping. Check the large pressure clamp on the turbo inlet piping joint above the engine. Ensure all band clamps are tight and there‘s nothing loose or damaged.

Now turn your attention to the engine. Remove the cover and molded foam sound deadening valve covers. Get a good look at the diesel common rail, injector lines, injector couplers and the top of the valve covers. Look for any grease, oil or diesel any any wet spots.

If all the visual inspections pass, you need to look at the injectors with a diesel OBD2 scan tool or an app like Torque or OBD Fusion with vehicle specific PID’s. I‘d want to see the rail pressure target, current rail pressure and fuel pump pressure. Normal readings are 3916 psi, 3850 psi and 72 psi respectively at idle. These will increase with RPM, speed and load but should remain relative to each other. Ideally, the rail pressure is within 98% of the target pressure indicating no blockages. Higher or much lower active pressure indicates a potential fuel delivery issue.

Which diesel OBD2 scan tool you using?

 

[Sandevino]

Which diesel OBD2 scan tool you using?

OBD Fusion on the iPhone.

 

[Schaft]

I have a 2021 JT 3.0. I got notification, that my fuel pump recall parts were in. I went and had them installed late January 2024. I use a fuel additive called FPPF total power, pretty much year-round. Up to, and after the recall installation, I wasn’t experiencing any problems. However, one week after my bumper to bumper warranty expired, on march 31, (24,000+mi.) after doing a remote start, my rig stalled after about 10 seconds. Wasn’t sure why but did a regular start and went on about my way. On my way home I did a remote start and it worked fine. The next day it stalled again after about 10 seconds. Then I became concerned. Did a regular start and noticed the check engine light on. It stayed on for a few days, while I did some research. I went to AutoZone and they did a scan. The code was P026C. Everything I found out pretty much sucked. And I certainly didn’t want to take it to the dealer. So I decided to do what I could, to try to remedy the situation. I cleaned the DEF injector. it wasn’t terrible, but it did have debris. I used a tub of warm water to dissolve it and wiped it with microfiber cloth. The light remained on, after starting and driving. I decided to try hot shots diesel extreme clean and boost. I bought the 16 ounce bottle for $14.99, at AutoZone. I added the recommended dosage and drove about 15 miles. The light remained on. Did another scan and erased the code. I took it on the highway with a heavy foot, when I could, In effort to unclog, whatever was throwing the code. It’s been five days and the light hasn’t come back on. It remote starts every time I try. I won’t rest easy until it’s been a while. Maybe two months, or so. That said, this is what worked for me. I’m sure it won’t work for everyone, but if it works for one person, that would be a success story.
I opted to skip the regular hotshots additive, and go right for the extreme version. Good luck.

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