Clayton Spring Help?

[Marinertom]

There's no way you have negative 5 degrees on one side and positive 2 degrees on the other, that's a 7 degree caster split. You can't really adjust caster split on a solid axle. Your readings should be pretty close to the same from side to side, otherwise your measurement method is flawed or your axle housing is twisted (unlikely). Are you sitting on level ground when taking the measurements?

that was in my driveway. Got on level ish ground in the garage. seems to be 4° positive in both sides. For caster.

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[dawghauler]

Is the axle in the correct position. Did you adjust the control arms for the 3.5 vice the 2.5 lift? Looks as if the axle is twisted one side ahead of the other

 

[Marinertom]

Is the axle in the correct position. Did you adjust the control arms for the 3.5 vice the 2.5 lift? Looks as if the axle is twisted one side ahead of the other

All good now just had to play around with the upper control arms. In my case had to shorten them up. you can see on the driver side where there was rubbing. Now there is none.

As for my measurements spoke with Clayton. Unless you get a professional alignment readout really don’t know caster etc. the angle finder is useful though in getting to where need though.

 

[Clayton Off Road]

Here are some pictures of mine. Just installed 2.5” diesel springs after running 2.5” for a year. A lot more bow.

@Clayton Off Road feel free to jump in.




Passenger

Driver

Hello! The pinion angle looks like it's too far up, definitely need to roll it down which will also increase the caster angle and help to straighten out the coil springs. While coil springs don't need to and will never sit perfectly straight up and down, this is mostly due to the axle being too far rotated in the wrong direction. Hope this helps, give us a call or shoot us an email if you would like us to assist further!

 

[aevgladitorrubi]

Don't kill me for this message-- I have the Clayton Offroad Overland Plus 2.5" diesel lift. I''m not as technical as you all, but I was having issues when I first got my lift installed. Front control arms are side specific and mine were installed incorrectly by the dealership-- just spit-balling here. My issues (driveability) were corrected by getting them reinstalled on the appropriate sides.

 

[rr_sontag]

Been working on the jeep off and on over the weekend. Tried several different things. I removed the RK correction wedges and reinstalled the factory lower isolators. This allowed the drivers side to clear, but the passenger still contacted the upper bucket. So I switched the driver isolator to the passenger side, didn’t fix. Next I tried several different adjustments to the upper control arms (shorter/longer) to no avail. Also tried removing the geometry brackets and using Clayton’s recommended control arm measurements, still nothing. I have Metalcloak control arms which are not side specific, so there shouldn’t be any issue there.

Not sure what the next move is. To me it seems like the Clayton springs are not centered at the top where it sits in the upper isolator(maybe they aren’t supposed to be?). I’ll attach some pictures. One is of the spring out with isolator on the top, and it’s facing the way it’s sits on the jeep. The outside of the isolator sits pretty close to even with the right side of the spring, and the spring extends out past the isolator on the left. The other is just where the passenger spring sits when installed. The springs aren’t bowing, they just don’t sit center in the upper bucket. I’ll reach back out to Clayton tomorrow, they are always super helpful. It’s just tough to diagnose over the phone.

 

[Jakeyou]

Been working on the jeep off and on over the weekend. Tried several different things. I removed the RK correction wedges and reinstalled the factory lower isolators. This allowed the drivers side to clear, but the passenger still contacted the upper bucket. So I switched the driver isolator to the passenger side, didn’t fix. Next I tried several different adjustments to the upper control arms (shorter/longer) to no avail. Also tried removing the geometry brackets and using Clayton’s recommended control arm measurements, still nothing. I have Metalcloak control arms which are not side specific, so there shouldn’t be any issue there.

Not sure what the next move is. To me it seems like the Clayton springs are not centered at the top where it sits in the upper isolator(maybe they aren’t supposed to be?). I’ll attach some pictures. One is of the spring out with isolator on the top, and it’s facing the way it’s sits on the jeep. The outside of the isolator sits pretty close to even with the right side of the spring, and the spring extends out past the isolator on the left. The other is just where the passenger spring sits when installed. The springs aren’t bowing, they just don’t sit center in the upper bucket. I’ll reach back out to Clayton tomorrow, they are always super helpful. It’s just tough to diagnose over the phone.

I have the clayton front springs to and they

look just like yours.

 

[rr_sontag]

I have the clayton front springs to and they

look just like yours.

Interesting. No issues with that? I was concerned I would hear a scraping or clanking noise from the spring hitting.

 

[Jakeyou]

I have the clayton front springs to and they

look just like yours.

Interesting. No issues with that? I was concerned I would hear a scraping or clanking noise from the spring hitting.

No noise and I have 16,000 miles on them

 

[calipoontappa]

I replaced mine because I would get a clunk plus they were way too stiff. I tried a ton of things to get rid of it but every time I hit a bump big enough I’d get an clunk in the rears. Got tired of it plus adjusting my shocks did almost nothing still had a rough ride. I bought a set of Synergy coils and they are a lot less stiff closer to factory spring rate, now adjusting my shocks actually does something. Much, much better ride.

 

[rr_sontag]

I replaced mine because I would get a clunk plus they were way too stiff. I tried a ton of things to get rid of it but every time I hit a bump big enough I’d get an clunk in the rears. Got tired of it plus adjusting my shocks did almost nothing still had a rough ride. I bought a set of Synergy coils and they are a lot less stiff closer to factory spring rate, now adjusting my shocks actually does something. Much, much better ride.

I had synergy springs on my old wrangler. I liked them, but they don’t make a diesel specific spring. And I think they maintain a decent rake. Which I think would be too much of the springs aren’t rated for the diesel. Looks like they have a 5” and 6” coming soon. Which may be the 3” and 4” lift for the diesel.

 

[rr_sontag]

No noise and I have 16,000 miles on them

Thanks for sharing. No scraping, or scratching either? It may be that’s just how they are, and not what I’m used to seeing. I heard back from Clayton this morning. They are saying it’s likely an issue with alignment. I may put them back on and see if I can get it on an alignment rack. Otherwise been looking at some different spring options.

 

[Marinertom]

Don't kill me for this message-- I have the Clayton Offroad Overland Plus 2.5" diesel lift. I''m not as technical as you all, but I was having issues when I first got my lift installed. Front control arms are side specific and mine were installed incorrectly by the dealership-- just spit-balling here. My issues (driveability) were corrected by getting them reinstalled on the appropriate sides.

Thanks for bring that to mind. Very easy mistake.

Fortunately was able to fix my issue by adjusting the upper control arms. Made them shorter to get the lower portion of the spring/ bump stop to sit more center / in line with the upper spring/ bump stop.

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

Fortunately was able to fix my issue by adjusting the upper control arms. Made them shorter to get the lower portion of the spring/ bump stop to sit more center / in line with the upper spring/ bump stop.

I'm pretty sure the only reasons to adjust control arms is to get a proper caster angle or center the axle/ true the wheelbase.
If your caster is good though, it's good.

 

[Clayton Off Road]

Interesting. No issues with that? I was concerned I would hear a scraping or clanking noise from the spring hitting.

Most customers don't get any noise, but once in a while if a truck is light enough the topmost wounds of the coil can touch. The easiest and simplest fix for this is just to re-use your rubber factory spring isolator, or just pick up one of these aftermarket ones!

https://www.034motorsport.com/coil-spring-sleeves.html

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