Considering switching from PUP to R&P

[Sw00per]

My goal is to use an oil that protects the engine and helps it stay clean. I have only used Ultra Platinum oil after doing some research on the benefits of their additives package.

Now, all the hype has died down about Restore & Protect, I thought I would see if anyone has tried R&P for a few changes to get their opinion. I know driving style is impactful. For what it's worth, my JT is not a daily driver, more long-distance highway driving (not towing) followed by off-road fun with a bit of hauling mixed in.

In fact, I have a trip to Colorado next month to hit the trails up in Ouray.

Cheers

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[Mr Miami]

I have not tried it yet but I see at my local Advanced Auto that the R&P is a few bucks cheaper than the Pennzoil I tend to use. I'm not sure how anyone would notice any difference after a couple of oil changes. I'm not trying to "poo poo" the idea that one product may be beneficial to use but it realistically would take millions of miles by a large group of users in a controlled environment to really get an accurate answer. Or real mechanics that have worked with a variety of products and cars who can add personal insight to what they have seen. I take claims of additives performing miracles worth about as much as the claims of most of the fuel and oil additives on bottles in your local auto parts store.

While under warranty and a new vehicle, I personally change the oil and filter at about 2,500 miles to give the factory oil some chance to magically do whatever it does (if anything, probably not) and then Pennzoil (because it is listed as acceptable in the owners manual) for another 2,500 miles to get to 5,000 miles and then get the free ones every 5,000 miles for a couple years. Then it's back to the Pennzoil, especially while it is under warranty for the full 5 years.

If after that time the R&P has the Chrysler/Stellantis certification and I save a few bucks when purchasing it, sure I will try it. I'm not sure it will make any difference but it's like the the gas I buy. If Shell is cheaper this week than Exxon, then it's Shell. If next week Marathon is cheaper than Mobil, then it's Marathon.

Do I do this correctly? I don't know. But I have 3 Jeeps in the yard (2 with the 3.6) and have not heard the "click click click" on the passengers side. What does it prove? What does my choice of oil and gas then mean? In my mind, nothing.

 

[Sw00per]

Check out the initial look at R&P from Lake Speed Jr. He did take a look at oil samples that folks have sent it. I will let you draw your own conclusions.



On a side note R&P is avaliable at locally and PUP has to be ordered. Not sure why.

Cheers

 

[Old Dogger]

I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, 5W30 in all three of our 3.6 engines. It is a great engine oil, and I have no reason to change!

 

[Mr Miami]

Check out the initial look at R&P from Lake Speed Jr. He did take a look at oil samples that folks have sent it. I will let you draw your own conclusions.



On a side note R&P is avaliable at locally and PUP has to be ordered. Not sure why.

Cheers

Perhaps a layer of deposits helps to prolong the life of the metal alloys. Similar to a protective coating to inhibit exposure to potentially corrosive elements.

That's the metallurgist inside of me speaking. See! I can do this too! Now you can ask me which oil to use in your motors.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

My goal is to use an oil that protects the engine and helps it stay clean. I have only used Ultra Platinum oil after doing some research on the benefits of their additives package.

Now, all the hype has died down about Restore & Protect, I thought I would see if anyone has tried R&P for a few changes to get their opinion. I know driving style is impactful. For what it's worth, my JT is not a daily driver, more long-distance highway driving (not towing) followed by off-road fun with a bit of hauling mixed in.

In fact, I have a trip to Colorado next month to hit the trails up in Ouray.

Cheers

First off- I trust the Valvoline oils in general.
Now - R&P - I can see one side effect that's not positive - on a high mileage engine that's got a lot of varnish, cleaning that "may" - and that's the key word, may - lead to some leak issues and such on engines with high miles and a lot of crud.
If you use it from earlier on, and prevent the varnish and carbon on the rings and in the ring grooves, I suspect you'd have better results.
It should be good for someone who has issues with oil consumption, a PCV system that's not great, that sort of thing. I gotta run, but I'd be interested in the API on this............ the latest specs? That would be great.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Perhaps a layer of deposits helps to prolong the life of the metal alloys. Similar to a protective coating to inhibit exposure to potentially corrosive elements.

That's the metallurgist inside of me speaking. See! I can do this too! Now you can ask me which oil to use in your motors.

The varnish itself can have an impact on things, including preventing leaks, slowing oil past the valve guides and so on. It might help expose physical engine issues.
On low tension rings, though, varnish can lead to them sticking............ and these have low tension rings.

 

[Sw00per]

It should be good for someone who has issues with oil consumption..

I have read on forums that folks that were burning oil either slowed it considerably or stopped it. I don't recall how long after they switched but the fact it helped is interesting.

 

[Hemy5587]

2 oil changes with it so far on my Gladiator currently at 45k miles. 1 oil change on my 122k mi 4.2 1989 YJ. So far no issues with either engine. The YJ is about due again but no leaks so far or oil burning (didn't burn before but has had an on and off again rear main seal leak since I have owned it). I've ran everything in that motor from 15w-40 Rotella to High Mileage Oils, so far it seems to be happy with this one. I am waiting until 4 oil changes on both before I am sold on it though but no issues thus far.

 

[Sw00per]

2 oil changes with it so far on my Gladiator currently at 45k miles. 1 oil change on my 122k mi 4.2 1989 YJ. So far no issues with either engine. The YJ is about due again but no leaks so far or oil burning (didn't burn before but has had an on and off again rear main seal leak since I have owned it). I've ran everything in that motor from 15w-40 Rotella to High Mileage Oils, so far it seems to be happy with this one. I am waiting until 4 oil changes on both before I am sold on it though but no issues thus far.

I have read it takes a minimum of two changes to get rid of traces of the old oil. It will be interesting to hear how it works for you.

 

[Hootbro]

Just my 2 cents but everything I have read about Restore and Protect is that unless you currently have a sludger or heavily varnish engine, it is a waste to pay the premium to run it it exclusively and better to just occasionally do a one off OCI of it as a maintenance dose.

 

[Sw00per]

Just my 2 cents but everything I have read about Restore and Protect is that unless you currently have a sludger or heavily varnish engine, it is a waste to pay the premium to run it it exclusively and better to just occasionally do a one off OCI of it as a maintenance dose.

In my area Its basically the same price as I am paying for PUP. That being said if it helps the engine run better last longer amd prevent potentially harmful buildup then why not? At least that is the question on my mind after my 1st Old Fashion... its happy hour cheers!

 

[Hemy5587]

They claim four or more changes for up to 100% deposit removal on their website. Likely will be more noticeable in my YJ than Gladiator but I look at it as preventative for the Gladiator. Cost is comparable to most full synthetics but this seems like it has an added bonus compared to other full synthetics.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I have read it takes a minimum of two changes to get rid of traces of the old oil. It will be interesting to hear how it works for you.

If you follow Lake - he always does a change, run it a bit, then change it again right away. He explains why.

In my area Its basically the same price as I am paying for PUP. That being said if it helps the engine run better last longer amd prevent potentially harmful buildup then why not? At least that is the question on my mind after my 1st Old Fashion... its happy hour cheers!

IMO - and it's just that - if it's just 'as good as' their other oils, removes deposits especially around the ring grooves, off the ring lands, and those areas, and does not negatively impact seals, sounds like a win.

I have read on forums that folks that were burning oil either slowed it considerably or stopped it. I don't recall how long after they switched but the fact it helped is interesting.

I won't bother with the details of ring construction here, how the oil scraper works and all of that, just suffice it to say, I've done enough engines to have witnessed first-hand just how carbon and varnish can lock rings into the grooves. And that's with typical older high-tension rings that have some force against the cylinder.
We have LOW tension rings. They don't press outward as hard - it takes combustion pressure to force them out more than the cut of the ring, the torsional tension on them, forcing them out. I'd suspect it takes less build-up to prevent the rings from working.
Now some engine "science" - the top of the bore wears more than the lower end. There's a taper after many thousands of miles of use. So the rings must shove back into the grooves a bit at the bottom, and be able to quickly move out and follow the bore as they move up.
And guess what varnish and carbon does.
I won't say "yeah, it's going to do that" - but I understand how it could, so it makes sense, and it's believable based on engine repair experiences.

i guess I'll leave it at this - try it. I see no reason to not try it, and all I can think of supports it doing some good. Always? Maybe not. But it makes sense, and I can see it preventing future build-ups.

Engine in my shop a few years back - 24,000 miles on it -

 

[Sw00per]

Thanks for all the information and feedback!

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