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Curious: Security for lighting

WILDHOBO

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I'm the same on the hood lock, haven't seen one I'm happy with the look. So I've been leaning more towards locking hood latches
I hear you. I just wish Bolt would come up with latches. I don’t want more keys.
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WILDHOBO

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I'm the same on the hood lock, haven't seen one I'm happy with the look. So I've been leaning more towards locking hood latches
The lasfit option was intriguing for a while, as it just unlocks the hood when the Jeep is unlocked, and it’s a clean install. But I think it defeats the purpose. If they clone the fob to get in, the hood is unlocked.
 

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I have security screws on my LP4s and the lock on my winch. I'm paranoid after having a vehicle stolen in the past. With enough time, all these can be overcome. Just hoping they will move on to easier targets and it won't be worth their time.
 
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NeatFreq

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I have security screws on my LP4s and the lock on my winch. I'm paranoid after having a vehicle stolen in the past. With enough time, all these can be overcome. Just hoping they will move on to easier targets and it won't be worth their time.
This is my mindset as well
 

mog

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Baja Design has a tamper resistance nut system that uses two together to install and tighten

Jeep Gladiator Curious: Security for lighting bd1


then you remove the bottom one, leaving a tapered nut.

Jeep Gladiator Curious: Security for lighting bd2


or similar 'sign post' ones on Amazon

Jeep Gladiator Curious: Security for lighting am1


If you went with a locking nut that might be more popular (such as Amazon or eBay availability) you could weld one or two of the holes on the nut and cut the corresponding shaft on the socket off, making a nut that the common 'locking' socket would not fit on.

Jeep Gladiator Curious: Security for lighting lockmod
 
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Baja Design has a tamper resistance nut system that uses two together to install and tighten

bd1.webp


then you remove the bottom one, leaving a tapered nut.

bd2.webp


or similar 'sign post' ones on Amazon

am1.webp


If you went with a locking nut that might be more popular (such as Amazon or eBay availability) you could weld one or two of the holes on the nut and cut the corresponding shaft on the socket off, making a nut that the common 'locking' socket would not fit on.

lockmod.webp
Excellent!!! Thank you for sharing :rock:
 

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If you went with a locking nut that might be more popular (such as Amazon or eBay availability) you could weld one or two of the holes on the nut and cut the corresponding shaft on the socket off, making a nut that the common 'locking' socket would not fit on.

lockmod.jpg
I like the idea, but how the heck would you cut that off if it’s recessed no the socket?!
 

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Amazon search has a few. Amazon.com : tamper proof nuts

Yes, some people may have the keys to these but let's always remember the golden rule, thieves are usually unprepared dumbasses!
 

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I'm the same on the hood lock, haven't seen one I'm happy with the look. So I've been leaning more towards locking hood latches
Installed Rugged Ridge’s Locking Hood Catch. They look as close to factory that I was able to find.

Bolt’s Hood Lock isn’t an option for me due to TrailCam (they share the same location), otherwise I would’ve preferred it over locking hood latches since it uses your vehicle key. Now I have an extra set of keys to eventually misplace.
 

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I like the idea, but how the heck would you cut that off if it’s recessed no the socket?!
A. When I use an abrasive cutoff wheel on my Dremel tool and they get really small instead of throwing them away, I keep them. So I have small wheels that can fit into a space like that to cut with. Normally it will take more than one since they are so small, but they are getting a 2nd use, so OK.
B. With a pointy rotary burr in a die grinder, you can get in at the base and 'cut' it off by grinding through it.
Jeep Gladiator Curious: Security for lighting burr

C. Most of the time the pins are just pressed in. So if it is a blind hole, the pin can be pried out like a tooth using vise grips or dikes.
D. If the pin was installed with a through hole, it can be drifted out with a punch.
E. If you have a drill press where it can be held securely, you can use a drill to 'poor man machine' the pin down. Will not work hand held.
 

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A. When I use an abrasive cutoff wheel on my Dremel tool and they get really small instead of throwing them away, I keep them. So I have small wheels that can fit into a space like that to cut with. Normally it will take more than one since they are so small, but they are getting a 2nd use, so OK.
B. With a pointy rotary burr in a die grinder, you can get in at the base and 'cut' it off by grinding through it.
burr.webp

C. Most of the time the pins are just pressed in. So if it is a blind hole, the pin can be pried out like a tooth using vise grips or dikes.
D. If the pin was installed with a through hole, it can be drifted out with a punch.
E. If you have a drill press where it can be held securely, you can use a drill to 'poor man machine' the pin down. Will not work hand held.
That’s funny, that’s exactly what I would do, I just thought there was a way that people with more machining experience than me would do it. :CWL:
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