Deisel lift specifics

[Dougstdig]

Then today my lift kit was delivered minus the rear trackbar which was delayed by FedEx but I decided to install it anyway. Install went well except for the rear swaybar link kit I received was for a JK so I reused the factory links. Im sure @Clayton Off Road will make it right when I call them on Monday.

It took me and my nephew about 5 hours to install outside the garage since my YJ is under construction. Ive only taken it around a few blocks but it rides super nice, better than factory so far with the Fox 2.0s. Its a little taller than I'd like but i expect it will settle after a few miles. Overall im very happy with the choice I made.

One small note about the diesel specific application is the interference between the catalytic converter and the upper control arm bolt. Man, that was tight. The summer sun made the removal very annoying. Along with getting the damn thing back in probably cost me about an hour. Nobody's fault but the FCA engineers. Might have been a 4 hour install short of that.

Was that the 2.5 or 3.5 kit?

I see you don’t have a winch. When you get around to that install it’ll bring the front down a bit.

Nice ride for sure!!!

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[Randonexplosion]

Was that the 2.5 or 3.5 kit?

I see you don’t have a winch. When you get around to that install it’ll bring the front down a bit.

Nice ride for sure!!!

Just the 2.5". Sure makes the 37s look small after running them at stock height.

Thanks man! I may need something up front to bring it down if it doesn't settle enough.

 

[Clayton Off Road]

Then today my lift kit was delivered minus the rear trackbar which was delayed by FedEx but I decided to install it anyway. Install went well except for the rear swaybar link kit I received was for a JK so I reused the factory links. Im sure @Clayton Off Road will make it right when I call them on Monday.

It took me and my nephew about 5 hours to install outside the garage since my YJ is under construction. Ive only taken it around a few blocks but it rides super nice, better than factory so far with the Fox 2.0s. Its a little taller than I'd like but i expect it will settle after a few miles. Overall im very happy with the choice I made.

One small note about the diesel specific application is the interference between the catalytic converter and the upper control arm bolt. Man, that was tight. The summer sun made the removal very annoying. Along with getting the damn thing back in probably cost me about an hour. Nobody's fault but the FCA engineers. Might have been a 4 hour install short of that.

Wow looks awesome! Give us a call if there was an issue with the end links and we'll get it fixed for you!

 

[Randonexplosion]

So I've put about 1,000 miles on with the 37s and Clayton kit so far. This afternoon I installed a set of the AEV geometry correction brackets. They made a considerable difference in ride and steering in the 3 or 4 miles that I drove running all of the cardboard from me and my wife's recent gladiator parts to recycling. Im going to install the geo correction brackets on her Mojave as well since I put on the AEV 2" spacer kit.

I only had a little over 3* of caster with the recommended upper lengths but it drove surprisingly well. I ended up with over 6* with the AEV brackets. This is with a digital angle finder on the bottom flat of the inner C taking into account the slope of my driveway so maybe it isnt the perfect measurement.

I will say that the Clayton kit is top notch, but from my measurements today I found that I got at least 4" of lift up front after about 1/4" of settling. It isnt exactly what I wanted since I haul a lot of stuff and tow a lot of trailers. I use it as a truck and that was one of my concerns when looking for a 2.5" kit. I had gathered that it would take some of the factory rake out, but 1.5" higher than advertised is pretty crazy in my opinion. I shouldnt have to add weight and spend $2k on a winch and bumper to bring it down to the expected ride height. I might try the factory diesel springs with a 2" spacer, then my shocks would be the right length.

I did have some issues with the front uppers, which was not Claytons fault. I think maybe the factory upper frame brackets arent square or the mounts on the axle housing are off. I set them to the same recommended length on initial install and had to ratchet strap the passenger upper axle mount back to get the arm to fit. When I installed the geo brackets I had to shorten the driver side to get the axle side bolt to slide in after setting them back to factory length. Anyone else have these issues with adjustable uppers?

 

[Clayton Off Road]

So I've put about 1,000 miles on with the 37s and Clayton kit so far. This afternoon I installed a set of the AEV geometry correction brackets. They made a considerable difference in ride and steering in the 3 or 4 miles that I drove running all of the cardboard from me and my wife's recent gladiator parts to recycling. Im going to install the geo correction brackets on her Mojave as well since I put on the AEV 2" spacer kit.

I only had a little over 3* of caster with the recommended upper lengths but it drove surprisingly well. I ended up with over 6* with the AEV brackets. This is with a digital angle finder on the bottom flat of the inner C taking into account the slope of my driveway so maybe it isnt the perfect measurement.

I will say that the Clayton kit is top notch, but from my measurements today I found that I got at least 4" of lift up front after about 1/4" of settling. It isnt exactly what I wanted since I haul a lot of stuff and tow a lot of trailers. I use it as a truck and that was one of my concerns when looking for a 2.5" kit. I had gathered that it would take some of the factory rake out, but 1.5" higher than advertised is pretty crazy in my opinion. I shouldnt have to add weight and spend $2k on a winch and bumper to bring it down to the expected ride height. I might try the factory diesel springs with a 2" spacer, then my shocks would be the right length.

I did have some issues with the front uppers, which was not Claytons fault. I think maybe the factory upper frame brackets arent square or the mounts on the axle housing are off. I set them to the same recommended length on initial install and had to ratchet strap the passenger upper axle mount back to get the arm to fit. When I installed the geo brackets I had to shorten the driver side to get the axle side bolt to slide in after setting them back to factory length. Anyone else have these issues with adjustable uppers?

Glad you got your issue figured out! That's not usually a part that gives customers a hard time, so it's possible something was off. We can always help diagnose issues if you want to email us over some photos.

Other than that just wanted to say in regards to the height gained, it's best to measure how much height was gained from the rear, since the front is always given a little extra lift to remove some of the factory rake. So in other words, the rear is always going to be closer to the advertised height, and the front will always be a little extra. That being said, we do provide about 1/2" more lift than advertised, so a 2.5" lift will measure about 3" in the rear, and then about 4" in the front in order to remove one inch of factory rake. Hopefully that makes sense! Let us know if you need assistance with anything or have any other questions

 

[Randonexplosion]

Im not trying to complain or anything but with the additional lift up front it seemed to take out more than 1" of rake. Depending on where I am parked it actually seems slightly nose-high. Ill put a tape measure to it when I am parked on flat concrete. Of course I didnt take any measurements before the lift so I dont have much reference. I could compare with my wife's Mojave and just measure spring height.

The front driveshaft seems pretty maxed out too. Good thing its a street queen

It looks great until I hook up to a trailer.

 

[Clayton Off Road]

Im not trying to complain or anything but with the additional lift up front it seemed to take out more than 1" of rake. Depending on where I am parked it actually seems slightly nose-high. Ill put a tape measure to it when I am parked on flat concrete. Of course I didnt take any measurements before the lift so I dont have much reference. I could compare with my wife's Mojave and just measure spring height.

The front driveshaft seems pretty maxed out too. Good thing its a street queen

It looks great until I hook up to a trailer.

The Diesels actually tend to sit more level than the non-diesels, due to the higher spring rate coils we use to get rid of that bottoming out issue those vehicles have. Truck looks great from the photo! The front driveshaft can always be replaced at your discretion, basically it's not something that really sees any use or takes any abuse unless your taking it off-road and flexing it out, totally up to you though!

If you want to get a little more rake in the rear for when you'e towing, the easiest and cheapest solution would be to just go with a small spacer in the back. Since the suspension is fully adjustable, this won't cause you any sort of issues!

 

[Dougstdig]

The Diesels actually tend to sit more level than the non-diesels, due to the higher spring rate coils we use to get rid of that bottoming out issue those vehicles have. Truck looks great from the photo! The front driveshaft can always be replaced at your discretion, basically it's not something that really sees any use or takes any abuse unless your taking it off-road and flexing it out, totally up to you though!

If you want to get a little more rake in the rear for when you'e towing, the easiest and cheapest solution would be to just go with a small spacer in the back. Since the suspension is fully adjustable, this won't cause you any sort of issues!

I pay attention…?

COR has also indicated they Size/Rate their front springs for steel not plastic bumpers and a winch. So…if you help your self recovery capabilities it should bring that front end down a tad.

 

[Randonexplosion]

There are definitely options but I bought a complete kit for a reason. I could, and want to find a steel rubicon bumper to run as a stubby but I dont know that I will need a winch. So paying money for a bumper ornament to add weight just to bring my front height down seems silly.

3/4" rear spacers is probably the easiest and cheapest route but I feel it is high enough already. Any thoughts on adding a carrier bearing spacer kit? AEV feels like their 2" spacer kit needs it so its on that a 2.5" kit doesn't come with it. I haven't noticed any driveline vibration but I would hate to have premature wear due to extreme angles.

I may research an alternative front spring solution. Had I known that it was going to be a solid 4" lift I may have looked harder at other options. It seems to be common knowledge once I installed it but I couldn't find much info beforehand.

I know I sound like a whiney bitch but this is the internet afterall

 

[Dougstdig]

There are definitely options but I bought a complete kit for a reason. I could, and want to find a steel rubicon bumper to run as a stubby but I dont know that I will need a winch. So paying money for a bumper ornament to add weight just to bring my front height down seems silly.

3/4" rear spacers is probably the easiest and cheapest route but I feel it is high enough already. Any thoughts on adding a carrier bearing spacer kit? AEV feels like their 2" spacer kit needs it so its on that a 2.5" kit doesn't come with it. I haven't noticed any driveline vibration but I would hate to have premature wear due to extreme angles.

I may research an alternative front spring solution. Had I known that it was going to be a solid 4" lift I may have looked harder at other options. It seems to be common knowledge once I installed it but I couldn't find much info beforehand.

I know I sound like a whiney bitch but this is the internet afterall

Bumper Ornament:
You’re concerned about “extreme articulation”. If you come down wrong on that obstacle requiring the extreme articulation you may wish you had that ornament. A wrecker bill can cost the same or more than the ornament.

Carrier Bearing:
The vibration you’re referring to happens when U-Joint equipped driveshafts are out of phase or have an incorrect angle. If you have stock driveshaft you don’t have a U-join in them. The fella from @Clayton Off Road has discussed the spacer in the past and has indicated it’s not required with their kits. With adjustable arms the axle can be rotated to dial out shaft to joint contact. It could give you a little insurance, but then again it may end up being an ornament.

Your last comment…well…You be you. It’s easy to be indecisive since there are so many parts available for these rigs.

 

[Randonexplosion]

Bumper Ornament:
You’re concerned about “extreme articulation”. If you come down wrong on that obstacle requiring the extreme articulation you may wish you had that ornament. A wrecker bill can cost the same or more than the ornament.

Carrier Bearing:
The vibration you’re referring to happens when U-Joint equipped driveshafts are out of phase or have an incorrect angle. If you have stock driveshaft you don’t have a U-join in them. The fella from @Clayton Off Road has discussed the spacer in the past and has indicated it’s not required with their kits. With adjustable arms the axle can be rotated to dial out shaft to joint contact. It could give you a little insurance, but then again it may end up being an ornament.

Your last comment…well…You be you. It’s easy to be indecisive since there are so many parts available for these rigs.

Who said anything about extreme articulation? I mentioned extreme angles. 2.5" lift in rear and 4" up front would definitely put the driveshaft CVs at extreme angles. I've destroyed a set of RCVs from oversteering them. They dont like extreme angles any more than U joints do.

Ive said multiple times that this is a street queen. I have a linked V8 YJ on 40s for wheeling.

Good thing the front axle has a FAD. Looks like my front driveshaft is about maxed at ride height.

 

[Dougstdig]

Who said anything about extreme articulation? I mentioned extreme angles. 2.5" lift in rear and 4" up front would definitely put the driveshaft CVs at extreme angles. I've destroyed a set of RCVs from oversteering them. They dont like extreme angles any more than U joints do.

Ive said multiple times that this is a street queen. I have a linked V8 YJ on 40s for wheeling.

Good thing the front axle has a FAD. Looks like my front driveshaft is about maxed at ride height.

Boy you sure did say extreme angles my apologies been a long day my eyes are tired. Well I didn’t remember your tag name, but I do remember a post with regard to the street queen in the YJ, so I stand corrected. When I saw the 12k APEX for just over $515, compared to a comparable Warn is almost disposable and a good backup. I still recommend this option over having to change front springs and as you pointed out adding additional lift in the rear.

 

[Randonexplosion]

Boy you sure did say extreme angles my apologies been a long day my eyes are tired. Well I didn’t remember your tag name, but I do remember a post with regard to the street queen in the YJ, so I stand corrected. When I saw the 12k APEX for just over $515, compared to a comparable Warn is almost disposable and a good backup. I still recommend this option over having to change front springs and as you pointed out adding additional lift in the rear.

Doug, I feel like we would be best friends over a couple glasses of whiskey but the internet complicates things.

 

[Dougstdig]

Doug, I feel like we would be best friends over a couple glasses of whiskey but the internet complicates things.

Lol…?

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