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Differential Options?

FLUndertaker

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I am going to go ahead and get my JT regeared to 4.88. I figure while I am at it I might as well upgrade from my open front and trac locked rear diffs. Since my JT isnt a daily driver and mileage or wear and tear arent big concerns I would prefer to have something "on" all the time versus needing to fool with air lines or electrical wires to actuate. What are my options here?
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ShadowsPapa

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Interesting - I was in the past under the impression that you don't install any sort of limited slip or locking front due to STEERING issues.
If the front has so much as limited slip - turning on a slick surface would be very difficult, I would expect.
The differential would "see" a large difference in rotational speed and try to tie them together. The outer wheel turns a lot more than the inner on a turn - limited slip doesn't care for that.
Something that manually locks, maybe - but again, trying to turn -
Are such things possible?
 

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The complete list:
1. ARB
2. Yukon Trac-Lok (like OEM) in rear only

That's it. Nobody has bothered and companies like Eaton have consistently stated there's no plans for any options any time soon. OX is the only one I believe has stated they're working on something but there's no telling what stage of development they are on.

I would suggest ARB if you will at all expect to do a locker because the labor cost will be double if you do it later hoping for a new option. When done right they rarely leak but it's always a possibility.

@ShadowsPapa with the FAD or hubs you can do anything up front. Just avoid an auto-locker (LSD is fine) if you delete the FAD because we don't have an option for hubs on this axle.
 

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Interesting - I was in the past under the impression that you don't install any sort of limited slip or locking front due to STEERING issues.
If the front has so much as limited slip - turning on a slick surface would be very difficult, I would expect.
The differential would "see" a large difference in rotational speed and try to tie them together. The outer wheel turns a lot more than the inner on a turn - limited slip doesn't care for that.
Something that manually locks, maybe - but again, trying to turn -
Are such things possible?
I always love your explanations but I have a question about the limited slip on the front. Doesn't both the front and the rear wheel inside wheel turn at a different rate than the outside, that aspect is not different, right? I know the BMW R75 WWII sidecar rig didn't have limited slip on the rear sidecar wheel so you couldn't really use the 2 wheel drive aspect of the R75 except for those times you are stuck and throw the clutch lever to engage it. There are stories on the BMW forums of GI hopping on one and not realizing they had to disengage the sidecare clutch or it pushed you straight in the curves no matter how much you turned the front wheels because there was no limited slip, it was locked.
 

ShadowsPapa

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The complete list:
1. ARB
2. Yukon Trac-Lok (like OEM) in rear only

That's it. Nobody has bothered and companies like Eaton have consistently stated there's no plans for any options any time soon.

@ShadowsPapa with the FAD or hubs you can do anything up front. Just avoid an auto-locker (LSD is fine) if you delete the FAD because we don't have an option for hubs on this axle.
Yes - but....... I'd sure not do if it I expected to use 4H on the road........ because then you don't have the disconnect between the front wheels any longer and steering on a slick surface wouldn't happen. Gross under-steer.

I always love your explanations but I have a question about the limited slip on the front. Doesn't both the front and the rear wheel inside wheel turn at a different rate than the outside, that aspect is not different, right? I know the BMW R75 WWII sidecar rig didn't have limited slip on the rear sidecar wheel so you couldn't really use the 2 wheel drive aspect of the R75 except for those times you are stuck and throw the clutch lever to engage it. There are stories on the BMW forums of GI hopping on one and not realizing they had to disengage the sidecare clutch or it pushed you straight in the curves no matter how much you turned the front wheels because there was no limited slip, it was locked.
Yes - but - the rears are forced into it because the fronts supposedly have traction, and weight, and the TooT (Toe out on Turns) helps keep the fronts in control as long as they can turn independently.
On a slick surface, my vehicles with LSD tend to slip the inside wheel due to weight transfer to the outside and the LSD wanting to lock the wheels together.
If you are turning on a surface with less than good traction, that means you are steering with only one tire up front, the other slipping. These also don't have IFS so you lose the advantages of the camber changing in a turn.

Like LostWoods suggested, as long as your FAD was disconnected, you'd be fine but then what's the point as once you engage 4H and try to take an interstate exit or entrance ramp with a bit of ice, it could get pretty hairy if 4H was engaged. I wonder what sand would be like..........

It's kind of funny in a way as I was not even thinking at all and asked an Eagle guy about that option on our cars - he reminded me - ever try to steer with the front wheels locked together? Ever wonder why there aren't any (that we/I KNOW of) from the factory?
That was years ago - maybe someone has it figured out?

I originally set to follow this thinking hey, maybe there's something out there new or whatever and they have explained how it's possible.
 

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LostWoods

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Yes - but....... I'd sure not do if it I expected to use 4H on the road........ because then you don't have the disconnect between the front wheels any longer and steering on a slick surface wouldn't happen. Gross under-steer.



Yes - but - the rears are forced into it because the fronts supposedly have traction, and weight, and the TooT (Toe out on Turns) helps keep the fronts in control as long as they can turn independently.
On a slick surface, my vehicles with LSD tend to slip the inside wheel due to weight transfer to the outside and the LSD wanting to lock the wheels together.
If you are turning on a surface with less than good traction, that means you are steering with only one tire up front, the other slipping. These also don't have IFS so you lose the advantages of the camber changing in a turn.

Like LostWoods suggested, as long as your FAD was disconnected, you'd be fine but then what's the point as once you engage 4H and try to take an interstate exit or entrance ramp with a bit of ice, it could get pretty hairy if 4H was engaged. I wonder what sand would be like..........

It's kind of funny in a way as I was not even thinking at all and asked an Eagle guy about that option on our cars - he reminded me - ever try to steer with the front wheels locked together? Ever wonder why there aren't any (that we/I KNOW of) from the factory?
That was years ago - maybe someone has it figured out?

I originally set to follow this thinking hey, maybe there's something out there new or whatever and they have explained how it's possible.
As long as you avoid the auto-locker, it's 100% safe and it's going to help in more situations than it will hurt. There are so many LSD-equipped FWD and AWD out there that have a Torsen or Trac-Lok style front that don't have issues and with an e-locker or air locker, you choose when it's on so you shouldn't notice it there either unless you turn it on.

Locking the rear gets hairy because it's pushing the vehicle and losing traction on one side tends to push the vehicle to one side or the other. With the front locked, even when one side loses traction, it tends to pull relatively straight. It's the same reason that FWD cars are superior (all else equal) in bad traction compared to RWD only.
 

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As long as you avoid the auto-locker, it's 100% safe and it's going to help in more situations than it will hurt. There are so many LSD-equipped FWD and AWD out there that have a Torsen or Trac-Lok style front that don't have issues and with an e-locker or air locker, you choose when it's on so you shouldn't notice it there either unless you turn it on.

Locking the rear gets hairy because it's pushing the vehicle and losing traction on one side tends to push the vehicle to one side or the other. With the front locked, even when one side loses traction, it tends to pull relatively straight. It's the same reason that FWD cars are superior (all else equal) in bad traction compared to RWD only.
I used to like 4 wheel and front wheel drive when I live up north as you could actually accelerate out of a drift or slide to some extent -the front wheels would pull you out of it.

I see your points - that's why I started keeping an eye on this. The newer systems would seem to be a lot better, allowing a difference, but not a spinning wheel.
 

LostWoods

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I used to like 4 wheel and front wheel drive when I live up north as you could actually accelerate out of a drift or slide to some extent -the front wheels would pull you out of it.

I see your points - that's why I started keeping an eye on this. The newer systems would seem to be a lot better, allowing a difference, but not a spinning wheel.
Honestly I'm very curious how a Torsen would act on these trucks because the BLD should in theory provide the necessary braking to get it to engage when you have no traction. I'd almost want to go that way just to try it out given I'm not doing the insane in this truck. I would love the idea of having it always there and ready without any real risk of electrical/air failure that can come with other lockers.

I guess that's also why I'm pulling for OX because that would be my choice for actual lockers. The engagement pin you can install to force the lockers on is a huge benefit in case you have a line blow out or something.
 

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Honestly I'm very curious how a Torsen would act on these trucks because the BLD should in theory provide the necessary braking to get it to engage when you have no traction. I'd almost want to go that way just to try it out given I'm not doing the insane in this truck. I would love the idea of having it always there and ready without any real risk of electrical/air failure that can come with other lockers.

I guess that's also why I'm pulling for OX because that would be my choice for actual lockers. The engagement pin you can install to force the lockers on is a huge benefit in case you have a line blow out or something.
My thinking is though with the Torsen AND FAD, you have one side acting like it's on ice at all times - or am I wrong?
The way those work is that it figures on a turn one is going back say 20% while the other is going forward that 20% and life is good, it comes into play when one is taking all of the "torque" and the other nothing.
With a conventional open differential and FAD, the driveshaft doesn't turn, the left axle drives the side gears in the carrier, they spin around the spiders or carrier gears and the right stub spins the opposite direction.
I dunno, I've been thinking too hard the last few days.
If you try something like that - let me know!
 

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My thinking is though with the Torsen AND FAD, you have one side acting like it's on ice at all times - or am I wrong?
The way those work is that it figures on a turn one is going back say 20% while the other is going forward that 20% and life is good, it comes into play when one is taking all of the "torque" and the other nothing.
With a conventional open differential and FAD, the driveshaft doesn't turn, the left axle drives the side gears in the carrier, they spin around the spiders or carrier gears and the right stub spins the opposite direction.
I dunno, I've been thinking too hard the last few days.
If you try something like that - let me know!
In the sense of the one wheel, yes, and the Torsen would not be able to do anything because there's no way to brake the inner shaft that's connected to the carrier. Even with the FAD engaged, I believe Torsen is like an auto-locker that it requires input torque from the pinion before it can engage as designed - otherwise it just acts like an open diff.
 

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LostWoods

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So some fantastic news... just heard back from OX and they're expecting theirs to be ready for the M210/220 by the end of the year. IMO, that's the best option bar none for actual lockers because they're mechanical engagement and the actuation is all handled on the exterior. You can use air, electric, or even a fully mechanical (literally a lever in the cab) actuation and even a pin that screws in to force engagement if you have a failure somewhere else like a compressor.

The Truetrac will be the best LSD option if Eaton ever gets around to it but I wouldn't hold my breath.
 
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So some fantastic news... just heard back from OX and they're expecting theirs to be ready for the M210/220 by the end of the year. IMO, that's the best option bar none for actual lockers because they're mechanical engagement and the actuation is all handled on the exterior. You can use air, electric, or even a fully mechanical (literally a lever in the cab) actuation and even a pin that screws in to force engagement if you have a failure somewhere else like a compressor.

The Truetrac will be the best LSD option if Eaton ever gets around to it but I wouldn't hold my breath.
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Lot's of trucks have LSD on the front. Some versions of the Chevy CUCV pickups for the military had a detroit in the 14-bolt rear and a Truetrac in the Dana 60 front. The 99-2004 grand cherokees could be had with quadra-drive which had vari-lok limit slip differentials front and rear.
 

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Honestly I'm very curious how a Torsen would act on these trucks because the BLD should in theory provide the necessary braking to get it to engage when you have no traction. I'd almost want to go that way just to try it out given I'm not doing the insane in this truck. I would love the idea of having it always there and ready without any real risk of electrical/air failure that can come with other lockers.

I guess that's also why I'm pulling for OX because that would be my choice for actual lockers. The engagement pin you can install to force the lockers on is a huge benefit in case you have a line blow out or something.
I have had one vehicle with a Torsen-type rear axle, an 06 Ram 2500 with the Cummins 5.9 with 610 lb-ft of torque (and an auto transmission in that truck). BLD in my Gladiator is the best BLD of any vehicle that I have driven yet, but from what I have observed so far, BLD still has to perceive and react to slip, to bring the slip back under control, before BLD comes into play. My experience with the Torsen-type axle in that Ram CTD was extraordinary. One time I had to park/pull off on a roadside with the one set of wheels on the gravel road and the others in slimy soaked grass, heavily sloped away from the road, in really mucky soil. With the diesel torque I expected drama and wheelspin galore, and expected to have to put it in 4wd, but decided to try it in 2wd, and with light throttle it just walked on out with astonishing lack of drama and zero wheelspin. Similarly, that rig could go up a relative's uphill winding unplowed driveway in 5-6" of snow in 2wd with just rugged all weather tread tires, no 4wd. Truly astonishing. I hardly ever put that Ram CTD in 4wd and I live in a place where I need to use 4wd fairly often, in every other vehicle before and since, during winter. What I like about the Torsen is that it is just "handling things" at a threshold that I think is earlier and more subtle than BLD, which to me gives a feeling of confidence on the road in bad weather, where you may be on and off of different patches of road with widely varying traction.
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