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Disabling ESS

Steve Wallace

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I'm new to the forum, thanks for letting me join. I disconnected the negative cable from the aux battery, I removed fuse #42 but the ESS is still functioning...anybody know what's going on with it? BTW, it's a 2020. TYIA.
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shooterrex

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You still have to push the button on the dash or buy a gizmo that you install under the dash so ya don't have to push the button every time you start it.
All you did was take the little battery out of the equation.
 
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Steve Wallace

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Thanks for the input, but, I've watched at least a dozen videos on doing this and it works for everyone else. I guess I'll have to watch a dozen more videos, lol.
 

Mr._Bill

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ESS is part of the system, it cannot be disabled. All you can do is prevent it from turning off the engine when it calls for it. Get one of the devices that connects under the dash and remembers whether you want ESS on or off.

You can watch all the videos out there. It's not going to change how the system actually functions.

Removing fuse F42 just prevents the relay assembly from working so that the startup test is done on the Main Battery, instead of the Aux Battery, and keeps the red A warning from lighting up on the dash.

The Aux Battery is there to keep the computers stable during ESS restarts. It is paralleled with the Main Battery. Removing it just reduces your overall Battery Storage capacity.
 

MeanGreen

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Just unplug the hood open plunger under the hood. Sure, you’ll get warning on your dash but doing it the way you want to will also cause warning lights all the time. As Mr. Bill said, the aux battery is there for a reason. Honestly, as much as you don’t want to hear it, you’re better off getting the module that turns it off for you or just hit the button. Disconnecting the aux battery just disables it because the truck thinks something’s wrong.
 

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DiehardTory

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Hey Forum, After multiple years of reading about ESS and how to disconnect.. Get this.. ESS will still pull voltage from the Main battery; even with the Aux bat removed. I fail to comprehend what is that difficult to push the ESS Off button .. it is within a hand width of the start button. My 0.02 worth is push the F'ing Button every time. While at it you can push the ESC button to and light up the tires on take off if you only half throttle the skinny peddle.
 

BourbonRunner

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@DiehardTory sure, it's easy enough to press the button but it's also an annoyance, hence the disabling harnesses and Tazer.

@OP: Welcome to the forum.

When you physically remove the aux battery, the aux positive lead needs to go back up to the main battery's positive post. You'll need to bend the tabs on the aux cable terminal to make it work. Then tape up the negative really well.

I couldn't fish the positive up via the fender access. I wound up doing it from the top. You'll remove the main battery, then the fuse box, remove the access panel and pull the red wire up. It's a tight squeeze but doable. [Banned Site] on Youtube has a great video on how to get to the aux from up top.

After all that if you want to permanently disable the ESS you'll need an auto stop eliminator. They range from about $40 to $100. Same goes for a Tazer but they're about $300 but they can do a ton more.

You can install either of those with both batteries intact and it will bypass ESS but be aware the aux can and will draw down on your main battery and can leave you stranded. Jump starting my BMW nuked mine.

Chances are your 2020 has the OG batteries and they're likely to need replacement. I replaced mine with a larger Group 94/H7 Odyssey. It fit perfectly fine in the OEM spot. They're about 350-400 and others are less money but Odyssey's are worth the money.

If you've got $1K burning a hole in your pocket, get the Antigravity lithium ion with the jump starter built in: https://antigravitybatteries.com/products/starter-batteries/automotive/ag-h7-rs/
 
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Steve Wallace

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Just unplug the hood open plunger under the hood. Sure, you’ll get warning on your dash but doing it the way you want to will also cause warning lights all the time. As Mr. Bill said, the aux battery is there for a reason. Honestly, as much as you don’t want to hear it, you’re better off getting the module that turns it off for you or just hit the button. Disconnecting the aux battery just disables it because the truck thinks something’s wrong.
Ok. I'll take your advice and get a Tazer or a similar gadget. 😉 Thanks
 
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Steve Wallace

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@DiehardTory sure, it's easy enough to press the button but it's also an annoyance, hence the disabling harnesses and Tazer.

@OP: Welcome to the forum.

When you physically remove the aux battery, the aux positive lead needs to go back up to the main battery's positive post. You'll need to bend the tabs on the aux cable terminal to make it work. Then tape up the negative really well.

I couldn't fish the positive up via the fender access. I wound up doing it from the top. You'll remove the main battery, then the fuse box, remove the access panel and pull the red wire up. It's a tight squeeze but doable. [Banned Site] on Youtube has a great video on how to get to the aux from up top.

After all that if you want to permanently disable the ESS you'll need an auto stop eliminator. They range from about $40 to $100. Same goes for a Tazer but they're about $300 but they can do a ton more.

You can install either of those with both batteries intact and it will bypass ESS but be aware the aux can and will draw down on your main battery and can leave you stranded. Jump starting my BMW nuked mine.

Chances are your 2020 has the OG batteries and they're likely to need replacement. I replaced mine with a larger Group 94/H7 Odyssey. It fit perfectly fine in the OEM spot. They're about 350-400 and others are less money but Odyssey's are worth the money.

If you've got $1K burning a hole in your pocket, get the Antigravity lithium ion with the jump starter built in: https://antigravitybatteries.com/products/starter-batteries/automotive/ag-h7-rs/
No money left in the budget after spending $22k for the truck, lol.
 

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shooterrex

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Hint the tab you need to press to release the stock cable from the box is on the firewall side of things. The plastic tool for prying panels apart does a good job of pressing the tab in while you pull down to unplug the cable.
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