DIY Bedrail System

[Gmac03]

So need some help...

Ordered everything but have too small of washers from the order.

Couldn't find the strut channel cap backers. Looked to be rubber or plastic squares.

Couldn’t find the washers for the eyelets.

Hopefully the depot will have something appropriate and black colored.

And last and most importantly I have a Access LiteRider inside the rails tonneau cover that is using clamps. Anybody have a solution for mounting it with this DIY bed rail system?

Thanks. ??

quick bump...

shopped the local big box stores and an excellent local fastener store, either had what I was looking for.

Still looking for suggestions to mount the clamps on the tonneau cover. Maybe using the eyelets so I still have tie down points, just have to sacrifice the ability to slide them.

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[Blade1668]

Is everyone using the 1 5/8 x 1 5/8" stock or is anyone using 13/16" stuff?

I used the "shorter" strut on the front of bed. No finish left as sold for anyone who was going to ask.

 

[Blade1668]

quick bump...

shopped the local big box stores and an excellent local fastener store, either had what I was looking for.

Still looking for suggestions to mount the clamps on the tonneau cover. Maybe using the eyelets so I still have tie down points, just have to sacrifice the ability to slide them.

I just used eye bolts, washers and nuts nothing fancy just need tie down points for me.

 

[mbush91]

Modified Toyota Tie Down Cleats, # 58461-04020-00 to work better on Unistrut, by adding M8x1.25 strut channel nuts. The M8 T-stud that I screwed strut channel nuts onto will just unscrew from the tightening knob from a tie down cleat. The strut channel nut can be tightened down to perfectly line up with the M8 T-stud.

**** Edit: change M8x1 to M8x1.25 for the proper strut channel nut thread

These look great. Where did you purchase the M8 channel nuts from?

 

[mazeppa]

These look great. Where did you purchase the M8 channel nuts from?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/QTY-10-M8-...657384?hash=item236cf20ba8:g:OMMAAOSwDCtdFSnP

https://www.mcmaster.com/3259T34/

 

[Jonesy22]

What not just get the Rail Trail Rail Kit for 295 and be done with it?

 

[jtforrester]

What not just get the Rail Trail Rail Kit for 295 and be done with it?

This is exactly what I would do if I did it again. The lifting eyes I used rusted so I need to sand and paint them. A couple of the rails I got from McMaster-Carr have scratches in them and are rusting. I'll probably end up removing my homemade system and either replacing it with the Mopar Trail Rail kit or just leaving it off.

 

[Kevin_D]

What not just get the Rail Trail Rail Kit for 295 and be done with it?

Because the other options are more customized, and, after all, that's what owning a Jeep is all about, isn't it?

Kevin

 

[Kevin_D]

This is exactly what I would do if I did it again. The lifting eyes I used rusted so I need to sand and paint them. A couple of the rails I got from McMaster-Carr have scratches in them and are rusting. I'll probably end up removing my homemade system and either replacing it with the Mopar Trail Rail kit or just leaving it off.

I made certain to use stainless steel or galvanized bits for the tie-downs I added to deter any corrosion.

Kevin

 

[Axeman]

I ordered all my hardware from McMaster Carr. In my opinion, this DIY trail rail system turned out better than the Mopar system. I had to notch out a few spots on the slotted struts to match up with the holes in the bed, but otherwise easy install. I just installed the hi lift jack mount system using the 3/8" -16 thread strut channel nuts with springs. The strut channel nuts that come with the hi lift mounting system are meant for the Mopar trail rail system and don't work with these strut channels, as they aren't wide enough to hold. I ordered a couple more strut channel nuts and sit-on-top channel washers so I can put the ring eyelets back on that side.

Is this the Hi-Lift mount kit that is for the OEM Mopar rails? Or is this the one for the Tacoma rails? I am going to use the unistrut also and I wanted to use this mount with it. Thanks

 

[mbush91]

Like some others, I decided to build my own bedrail system out of unistrut. I think it came out pretty OEM looking.

I purchased all of the material from McMaster Carr for about $130.00

• https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/126/1655
• https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/126/2073
• https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/126/2062
• https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/126/2071
• https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/126/2072

In addition to the material listed, you will need some M6 1mm x 25mm long screws and some rubber washers for the lifting eyes. I also put some polyethylene that I had laying around from making table saw jigs on the back of the runner.

Future Design Notes

• I am going to remove the springs from the strut channel nuts because they make it difficult to re position the slider.
• I ordered some custom stainless ratchet straps in red to match the truck.
• I am working on a fishing rod holder that will use knobs to attach to the rails.
• I am working on a bed divider system that will attach to the rails.

@Mikegcny, how is the power-coat holding up after a few years of abuse?

 

[domingjm]

Anyone try Dee Zee version? They're about $120 cheaper, but they don't look quite as robust.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Dee+Zee/300/...2mibClLznQ5e-7aMNwjDsHG6srT6LG0BoC99sQAvD_BwE

 

[AverageOverlander]

In regards to the paint chipping, with galvanized you need to make sure you wipe it down with some type of cleaner like a glass one, then use a primer compatible with galvanized, then you should be good to top coat with what you want.

I’m setting my rails up, I’d really like to run two vertical 1” struts off of a horizontal bed one, then mount my recovery boards to them, but I’m thinking that would be too much swinging force back and forth on the bed rail and could loosen it or even rip it out on a bad trail. Has anyone tried this or are there any thoughts on this? Thanks,

 

[ShadowsPapa]

In regards to the paint chipping, with galvanized you need to make sure you wipe it down with some type of cleaner like a glass one, then use a primer compatible with galvanized, then you should be good to top coat with what you want.

The reason glass cleaner may work is AMMONIA. many glass cleaners have ammonia in them.

Typically, because zinc oxidizes instantly, they put an oily coating on the galvanized steel to protect the zinc for a while. Once in service it's normally not important if the zinc coating oxidizes a bit and forms that gray patina.
The problem is that paint will not stick to the protective oils or to the zinc oxide. So the key is to clean it and prime or paint it quickly. Don't degrease/de-oil it, clean it and then wait until tomorrow or next week as you've just exposed the zinc to the air to oxidize all over again.
So use white vinegar or ammonia and clean it, then paint it right away. If you want to use a primer, use a self-etching primer or something made for going over zinc.

Zinc plating can be painted without trouble, galvanizing is another matter.

 

[Clarkr32]

Anyone try Dee Zee version? They're about $120 cheaper, but they don't look quite as robust.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Dee+Zee/300/...2mibClLznQ5e-7aMNwjDsHG6srT6LG0BoC99sQAvD_BwE

definately no room for my tonneau cover hooks

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