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Do I need Sway bar links??

ShadowsPapa

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I know its been on here a lot but there is so much to search and read I thought I would ask for my self.

I have a Sport with Max tow and just picked up Rubi spring and shocks also a set of Mopar LCA to adjust my camber. I'm obviously using the Rubi Spring up front and the Fox shocks all around but I am adding a Daystar 1.5" leveling kit for the front with shock extensions, a 3/4" spacer for the rear and also a adjustable Track bar to keep the front end all centered up.

My real question is do I need longer front sway bar links right away or will the stock ones work with adding 2.25" of lift to the front? What type of ride should expect on the stock tires until I replace them? I do some light wheeling and desert trails but mostly a daily driver with about 25 miles a day on the highway. Thanks in advance!!
DEPENDING on the exact "Rubicon springs" you got - you may get anywhere from 3/4 to almost 1" lift. NO, you don't need any sway bar parts for that.
BUT if you go beyond a couple inches total..........

Lower control arms won't adjust camber, you can't adjust it. LCA will give some more caster. Will caster be correct when you are done? Maybe, maybe not. They don't make a huge change, a lot will depend, actually, it all will depend on the total lift you get. Different springs mean different things to different trucks because Rubicons could have any of at least 2 or 3 spring pairs under the front. No guarantee you'll get much, but then if your springs are softer and the Rubicon springs came from a fully loaded Rubicon, you could gain almost an inch.
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ShadowsPapa

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I don't understand why the lca's that come with a 2" Mopar lift would over correct if I'm adding 2 1/4" of lift rather than leaving the stock lca's in which are about 1/2" shorter.

I'm taking into consideration I am adding the leveling kit 1 1/2" and Rubi front springs 3/4".
You are GUESSING on the Rubicon spring change. No guarantee of any exact amount.
 

Mac

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I would add them, as stated all JTs have the same control arms and the rubicon springs are usually about an inch taller than the sport springs plus you mentioned adding a 1.5” spacer, a little more caster will not hurt anything or create a drivability issue. If you do a search there are others who have done exactly what you are asking about.
 

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They are the stock front rubi springs. He had Mopar lift installed and all the stock stuff was taken out which I bought. He then took off the LCA's from the Mopar lift and gave them to me. They are about 1/2 longer than stock.
Mike, you may have thrown folks off by saying that they're 1/2" longer. They're actually 1/4" longer (between holes) and work great on a JL/JLU when adding Rubicon takeoffs.

Later,
Johnny
 

ShadowsPapa

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I would add them, as stated all JTs have the same control arms and the rubicon springs are usually about an inch taller than the sport springs plus you mentioned adding a 1.5” spacer, a little more caster will not hurt anything or create a drivability issue. If you do a search there are others who have done exactly what you are asking about.
Add to that - if he's adding a 1.5" spacer and gets ONLY .5" out of the Rubicon springs, he's at 2" - and isn't that the equiv. of the Mopar lift with the .25" longer lower arms?
A tad more caster won't hurt these anyway, IMO.
If he was talking a LOT more caster, maybe, but that .25" on the lower arms after a 1.5 - 2" lift, even a bit over 2", won't give TOO much caster.
I wish mine had a bit more caster to be honest.
 

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Mac

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You can buy the LCAs from the Mopar lift from allmoparparts.com they are around $112 for the pair. I have a set just have not had a chance to install them.
 

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I don't understand why the lca's that come with a 2" Mopar lift would over correct if I'm adding 2 1/4" of lift rather than leaving the stock lca's in which are about 1/2" shorter.

I'm taking into consideration I am adding the leveling kit 1 1/2" and Rubi front springs 3/4".
Disregard the springs entirely , the LCA you have now are correct for the Rubicon springs you are installing.

As for the spacers I'm just saying that I have never seen any manufacturer ever, recommend a caster correction using them. But hell, you got them put them in, if it is wandering all over the road, or won't self correct when the wheel is turned take them out.

It is a little bit of a pain in the ass to get them torqued correctly with the weight of the vehicle on them, I'm just trying to save you some sweat and answer your questions, it's your Jeep do whatever you want to it.
 
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Oak4627

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Thanks everyone for the advice it as definitely brought me some good information.

I did find out my rubi springs are from a launch edition with steel bumpers. So I'm not sure if they are any different than the regular rubi ones but the numbers are.

Next comes the real search a set of rims and tires
 

ShadowsPapa

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Disregard the springs entirely , the LCA you have now are correct for the Rubicon springs you are installing.

As for the spacers I'm just saying that I have never seen any manufacturer ever, recommend a caster correction using them. But hell, you got them put them in, if it is wandering all over the road, or won't self correct when the wheel is turned take them out.

It is a little bit of a pain in the ass to get them torqued correctly with the weight of the vehicle on them, I'm just trying to save you some sweat and answer your questions, it's your Jeep do whatever you want to it.
The lower arms are correct on that truck for the height it sits now, the distance between axle and frame.
If he installs the springs and it sits 1" higher, then he's got half of the MOPAR lift.
If he installs 1.5" spacers, that's the same as installing even longer springs -
So how can lifting by spacers not change caster while lifting by longer springs as in a spring-based lift kit change caster?
Makes no sense. If I lift via springs or spacers, it's still a lift.
IF - and this is an IF - he gets 1" out of those springs PLUS 1.5" of spacers, the axle is now 2.5" away from the frame, in other words, the truck is now lifted 2.5".
Doesn't matter the method, the result to alignment/caster, will be the same.
He'll either get 2" or 2.5" lift - why do the MOPAR 2" lifts come with longer lower arms but lifting without the MOPAR lift is different and won't need arms?

You are saying that the MOPAR 2" lift doesn't need the lower arms either.

A lift is a lift.
He's looking at a minimum of 2" and as much as 2.5" lift.
 

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Mac

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I put a set on from a LE, numbers were 340 and 343 got a solid inch of lift from them over the springs my max tow came with.
 
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Oak4627

Oak4627

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I put a set on from a LE, numbers were 340 and 343 got a solid inch of lift from them over the springs my max tow came with.
I have the same numbers on mine so I guess I can anticipate roughly the same amount of lift as you.
 
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ShadowsPapa

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Mine were 339 and 340 and I got 3/4"-7/8" on my Overland.
With those springs you could well get 1"
Still depends somewhat on the springs under your truck now. If your Sport is more equipped than the next one, the lift won't be as much.
If yours isn't fully optioned, then you'll get better lift than someone else might.
Even the Sport will come with different front springs depending on the equipment. People forget - every level has a range of springs it may have.

Since my Overland is likely a bit heavier than a Sport S - you should see what you are hoping.
 

Mac

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Installed the Mopar LCAs this morning, install was easy except for loosening the bolts, same with tightening tough to get the torque wrench in there and get 190ft/lbs on them.
 
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Oak4627

Oak4627

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Installed the Mopar LCAs this morning, install was easy except for loosening the bolts, same with tightening tough to get the torque wrench in there and get 190ft/lbs on them.
Those are the only parts I'm not looking forward to changing just because of the insane torque spec.
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