Door Pin Guides

[ShadowsPapa]

Not to get to deep into this topic, but the tub and frame are steel, but everything that attaches to the tub is aluminum (or aluminum/magnesium alloy). I'm sure there must be a sacrificial anode to keep the dissimilar metals from corroding (good paint helps too, of course). But what happens when that sacrificial anode has done all its sacrificing? Something has to give. I'm sure the engineers thought long and hard about it all, but it's just interesting to me, with so many vehicles using dissimilar metals now. (aluminum beds on some trucks, and aluminum hoods and roofs on many cars, for example). I haven't had any courses on this stuff since high school, so I'm hoping you or someone knows how they do it.

Sacrificial anodes only work with things like boats and water heaters - in water.
Worthless on vehicles.
There must be a connection - and that connection in those two are water. (the anodes are generally zinc because it's more active than most other metals and sacrifices itself)

The engineers know what works together and what doesn't. Has anyone ever looked at the hood hinges and where they are attached? The screws and hinges are insulated from each other and from what they are attached to.

I sort of have to keep track of noble metals, active vs. less active and so on (I do plating and restoration)

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[AZCooWhip]

No .....we have bolts?

 

[dcmdon]

Not to get to deep into this topic, but the tub and frame are steel, but everything that attaches to the tub is aluminum (or aluminum/magnesium alloy). I'm sure there must be a sacrificial anode to keep the dissimilar metals from corroding (good paint helps too, of course). But what happens when that sacrificial anode has done all its sacrificing? Something has to give. I'm sure the engineers thought long and hard about it all, but it's just interesting to me, with so many vehicles using dissimilar metals now. (aluminum beds on some trucks, and aluminum hoods and roofs on many cars, for example). I haven't had any courses on this stuff since high school, so I'm hoping you or someone knows how they do it.

Maybe they use something to electrically isolate the two parts?

 

[Higher_Ground]

https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article - Corrosion.pdf

Wikipedia wants to call the hardware we're referring to as a "sex bolt". Never heard that term used before, but I guess it makes sense for a mating fastener.

AFAIK the hinge bushings are aluminum. They would fail before the hinge itself, and you can replace them with plastic if it becomes an issue. As for the pin guides causing corrosion, I feel liek that is more likely to occur on the threads of the bolt than the bushing, though it could be both.

I finally ordered some pin guides. I was putting the doors back on and could not line it up to save my life. I spent 5 mins holding the door trying to get it in without scratching the paint. I finally had to get someone to line it up while I was holding it to put them back on. If I'm not going to take them off any time soon I figure removing the pin guide can't be any more work than removing the "sex bolt" in the first place.

 

[Erievon]

I was putting the doors back on and could not line it up to save my life. I spent 5 mins holding the door trying to get it in without scratching the paint.

The pins help a bit. Next time you do it, change hands that are holding the door. I was grabbing all 4 doors the same way, first two went on like cake, second two were a total PITA. Finally dawned on me that figuring out which side of the vehicle you're on and which hand is supporting the door makes a huge difference. So for Driver side, right hand goes through the window to hold the arm rest, and Passenger the left hand. Thus the hinge is always right there in front of you.

 

[Higher_Ground]

The pins help a bit. Next time you do it, change hands that are holding the door. I was grabbing all 4 doors the same way, first two went on like cake, second two were a total PITA. Finally dawned on me that figuring out which side of the vehicle you're on and which hand is supporting the door makes a huge difference. So for Driver side, right hand goes through the window to hold the arm rest, and Passenger the left hand. Thus the hinge is always right there in front of you.

That would probably explain it. I used to put them back on just like you describe but after reading about the plywood/drywall carrying handles started to use those. It's so much easier to hold that I never bothered to change which side I was holding it from

 

[be77solo]

I get the reason for bolts vs pins but loctite on the pins is going to require some effort to break away and you could scratch the paint in that process. Bolt seems more controlled an extraction with less likely to cause damage than yanking a pin with loctite.

I suspect those considering putting loctite on the pins have no plans to ever actually remove the pins and reinstall the bolt.... but that's just a guess, I have the pins, but they don't have loctite on them.... I just make sure they are finger snug when I reinstall the doors.

 

[jebiruph]

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/diy-door-installation-pin-guides.31057/

 

[darksidedesign]

I considered the pins, but I’ve had my doors off and on all summer without anything on there. Are the pins even necessary?

 

[Erievon]

Necessary? Not at all. Some feel it helps guide the door into the hinges.

 

[NvrGvUp]

tapered aftermarket pins make it easier to remove and install the doors. Since you've installed them I probably wouldn't remove them and reinstall the original pins and having removed and installed doors hundreds of times I know it is too easy to chip the paint when taking doors off and on. Here's a video link that offers some protecting the doors when removing them:

 

[am1978]

I would install them with a drop of white grease, silicone grease, wd-40, etc. inside the guide cap prior to install to help with getting it off if you want to do so one day. Either way, I recommend them.

 

[Erievon]

It drove my ocd nuts how much the top ones stuck out below the hinge, so I only left the bottom ones in. Even just the bottoms help.

So I put the top 4 on the bottoms of my wife's JL doors. Might as well use em.

 

[rwesorick]

tapered aftermarket pins make it easier to remove and install the doors. Since you've installed them I probably wouldn't remove them and reinstall the original pins and having removed and installed doors hundreds of times I know it is too easy to chip the paint when taking doors off and on. Here's a video link that offers some protecting the doors when removing them:

WHERE CAN I FIND THIS CART FOR THE JT???

 

[AZCooWhip]

WHERE CAN I FIND THIS CART FOR THE JT???

https://gowithoutdoors.com/

G. O. O. G. L. E.

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