Drag link replacement

[Gizmo]

I went from Core crawl series to synergy being it has more clearance for the bearing on the sector shaft bearing on the sector shaft/track bar brace

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[Gvsukids]

My tie rod might make 80K, but the drag link wasn't gonna come close to it - so I didn't see any sense buying more junk OEM parts to replace it.

Now. If that tie rod makes it to 80K - I might put another OEM one in it for the right cost - but last I priced tie rods it made no economic sense to put an OEM one in it.

I can't see a world where the original one makes it to 114K, but maybe mine was garbage or the roads are that bad here. If history was any indication I'd need three more OEM ones to get to that mileage, lol.

Mine have made it 124000.

 

[mgw750]

On Stellantis parts, the last two digits are the rev level.

I'd always go with the newer rev if everything else is the same.

In this case, 68522995AA is for wide track axles, which I don't believe an Overland has, so you want the other

I dont think there is a difference on the draglink if you have wide track axles or not, just the tierod I believe is when it matters.

 

[mgw750]

Well, my Jeep, my money...I like the look of the MetalCloak, will probably go that way. I don't have ALL the repair info on mine so the entire front end could have been replaced by the original owner (only one). It had 114k when I bought it. The drag link started to 'rattle' after my last 30 mile off road trip, guess it got hammered a bit.

Mine needed to be replaced by 50k, tierod too. They were both wore out. Especially the drivers side of the draglink, it was a mess. I replaced both tierod and draglink with steersmart yeti xd. Unbelievable difference.

 

[AllMoparParts.com]

It seems to be time to replace the drag link on my 2020 Overland. So the only issue I see at the moment is ordering the parts...there are two model numbers and two slightly different prices. Both say they fit my vehicle. Any assistance would be welcome! One part number is
68522995AA
the other is
68522992AB

It looks to me like either would work but this is my first venture into the front end of my Gladiator.

We would need your VIN, Feel free to DM it and also clarify if you need both sides of the link.

Thanks
- Benny

 

[McRuss]

OK, so now I have my 'aftermarket' drag link (FedEx got it to me and not my neighbor!)
I note that the passenger side is too close to the wheel to remove the old link (and probably put the new one in). Any reason I shouldn't remove the wheel to do this? I've always removed wheels to do front end work on non-jeep vehicles but this one is different. I guess I could use a 21mm wrench instead of the socket...

 

[Gizmo]

Id take the tire off. Why fight it

 

[WILDHOBO]

OK, so now I have my 'aftermarket' drag link (FedEx got it to me and not my neighbor!)
I note that the passenger side is too close to the wheel to remove the old link (and probably put the new one in). Any reason I shouldn't remove the wheel to do this? I've always removed wheels to do front end work on non-jeep vehicles but this one is different. I guess I could use a 21mm wrench instead of the socket...

I usually pull the wheel. Faster than the fight. @Gizmo ain’t wrong.

 

[McRuss]

Thank you, gents. I do agree.

 

[McRuss]

Drag link is replaced. It should have been a one hour or less job but the driver's side ball joint would not give to my best pickle fork and 10 lb hammer. I finally took it down the road to my FLMS and had them do it. They had to use an air hammer/pickle fork devise to get it apart. But it does drive much nicer now, no rattle. Thanks for all the info and suggestions. I went with MetalClaok and it seems very nice and less than a Mopar piece.

 

[Gizmo]

Pitman arm end is always a MFer. Thats why we recommend removing the front wheels to help as much as possible. It’s hard to whack it as hard as needed knowing you are beating on the weak end of your steering gear.

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