Drag link replacement

[McRuss]

It seems to be time to replace the drag link on my 2020 Overland. So the only issue I see at the moment is ordering the parts...there are two model numbers and two slightly different prices. Both say they fit my vehicle. Any assistance would be welcome! One part number is
68522995AA
the other is
68522992AB

It looks to me like either would work but this is my first venture into the front end of my Gladiator.

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[Gvsukids]

It seems to be time to replace the drag link on my 2020 Overland. So the only issue I see at the moment is ordering the parts...there are two model numbers and two slightly different prices. Both say they fit my vehicle. Any assistance would be welcome! One part number is
68522995AA
the other is
68522992AB

It looks to me like either would work but this is my first venture into the front end of my Gladiator.

Check with @AllMoparParts.com

 

[mgw750]

I looked those up also and came up with both numbers. But both of those are just the passenger side, you also need drivers side 68258760AE. I have replaced these (with aftermarket stuff) a couple times. The stock stuff is not very good compared to good aftermarket stuff.

 

[ChrisNLA]

I looked those up also and came up with both numbers. But both of those are just the passenger side, you also need drivers side 68258760AE. I have replaced these (with aftermarket stuff) a couple times. The stock stuff is not very good compared to good aftermarket stuff.

My factory drag link made it 25,000 miles before it started to cause mild death wobble. I'm only on 33s

I have an aftermarket one ton unit now from Metalcloak.

Factory drag link is still hanging in there though, at 50K miles.

Given how much money they want for Mopar parts, you can just about get a nicer aftermarket drag link for similar cost.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

On Stellantis parts, the last two digits are the rev level.

I'd always go with the newer rev if everything else is the same.

In this case, 68522995AA is for wide track axles, which I don't believe an Overland has, so you want the other

 

[WILDHOBO]

My factory drag link made it 25,000 miles before it started to cause mild death wobble. I'm only on 33s

I have an aftermarket one ton unit now from Metalcloak.

Factory drag link is still hanging in there though, at 50K miles.

Given how much money they want for Mopar parts, you can just about get a nicer aftermarket drag link for similar cost.

I agree. I’d definitely go aftermarket. Likely to get better quality for less money.

 

[McRuss]

Well, I doubt mine have been replaced but at 126,000 plus, it is time! I'll check out the aftermarket ones.

 

[McRuss]

OK, I'm considering the Metalcloak. Looks easy enough. Has everything I'll need for now.

 

[Free2roam]

There's tons of options out there. I opted for Fusion 4X4. It's been super solid for me.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

If my stock tie rod lasted 130k, I'd just buy another unless a cheaper option was there.

Mine is at 80k and fine, and that's the route I intend to go.

But that's just me, the only people spending your money faster than commentors on a forum are politicians lol.,

 

[McRuss]

Well, my Jeep, my money...I like the look of the MetalCloak, will probably go that way. I don't have ALL the repair info on mine so the entire front end could have been replaced by the original owner (only one). It had 114k when I bought it. The drag link started to 'rattle' after my last 30 mile off road trip, guess it got hammered a bit.

 

[WILDHOBO]

OK, I'm considering the Metalcloak. Looks easy enough. Has everything I'll need for now.

Drag link or tie rod? I’m confused now. If drag link, teraflex forged is solid as hell, and super easy to adjust. @Stan H has one as well.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

On Stellantis parts, the last two digits are the rev level.

I'd always go with the newer rev if everything else is the same.

In this case, 68522995AA is for wide track axles, which I don't believe an Overland has, so you want the other

store.mopar.com lists both wide and narrow axle models under vehicle fitment for both of those part #s. Not sure what's going on there.


68522995AA:

68522992AB:

 

[ChrisNLA]

If my stock tie rod lasted 130k, I'd just buy another unless a cheaper option was there.

Mine is at 80k and fine, and that's the route I intend to go.

But that's just me, the only people spending your money faster than commentors on a forum are politicians lol.,

My tie rod might make 80K, but the drag link wasn't gonna come close to it - so I didn't see any sense buying more junk OEM parts to replace it.

Now. If that tie rod makes it to 80K - I might put another OEM one in it for the right cost - but last I priced tie rods it made no economic sense to put an OEM one in it.

 

[ChrisNLA]

Well, my Jeep, my money...I like the look of the MetalCloak, will probably go that way. I don't have ALL the repair info on mine so the entire front end could have been replaced by the original owner (only one). It had 114k when I bought it. The drag link started to 'rattle' after my last 30 mile off road trip, guess it got hammered a bit.

I can't see a world where the original one makes it to 114K, but maybe mine was garbage or the roads are that bad here. If history was any indication I'd need three more OEM ones to get to that mileage, lol.

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