Eco Diesel intake manifold failure

[jr-ash]

I have a 2021 Jeep Gladiator with an Eco Diesel. I have 77,500 miles on it. Just had the check engine light come on and codes P200B and P202E came up. I still have a 60 month or 100,000 mile powertrain warranty as I have the diesel engine. However I am hoping that they will stand by the warranty and cover this. I also seem to be using oil. Has anyone else had issues with the intake manifold? I feel that this issue should not be happening on a well maintained and babied engine with only 77,500 miles on it. From the research I have done, it’s been an issue at 150,000 miles.

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[biodiesel]

codes P200B and P202E came up.

P202E is related to your emissions (DEF injector, DEF Sensor, etc.). Make sure you take it to a dealer with a good diesel tech.

P200B is related to your swirl valves on the intake. It's possible the swirl valves are not operating efficiently.

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

P202E is related to your emissions (DEF injector, DEF Sensor, etc.). Make sure you take it to a dealer with a good diesel tech.

P200B is related to your swirl valves on the intake. It's possible the swirl valves are not operating efficiently.

Super extra possible the swirl valves are having issues with buildup… egr shut off would help with this.

Well maintained motor is great. Babying a motor all the time comes with its qualms- though I don’t think it changes the soot & oil sludge build up in your intake manifold.

ask the tech for a photo when they get the intake manifold off….
Photos are a gen 2 80k miles well maintained all factory…. EGR’s on a diesel = yuck

 

[biodiesel]

Super extra possible the swirl valves are having issues with buildup… egr shut off would help with this.

Well maintained motor is great. Babying a motor all the time comes with its qualms- though I don’t think it changes the soot & oil sludge build up in your intake manifold.

ask the tech for a photo when they get the intake manifold off….
Photos are a gen 2 80k miles well maintained all factory…. EGR’s on a diesel = yuck

I don't necessarily hate EGR, but here's a picture of the 2nd gen EcoDiesel intake ports with about 320,000 miles.

 

[John in the Woods]

Jumping in late with a question …

I’m just shy of 119K, and started getting the P200B code. Is there any way to clear any build up in the intake short of pulling the manifold? If not, is this something I can tackle in my garage?

 

[biodiesel]

Jumping in late with a question …

I’m just shy of 119K, and started getting the P200B code. Is there any way to clear any build up in the intake short of pulling the manifold? If not, is this something I can tackle in my garage?

The easiest thing to do is to replace the intake with a new Mopar intake. The new Mopar intake will come with everything you need including a new MAP sensor. If you shop around, you can find the Mopar intakes for a decent price. You won't have much soot buildup on the intake ports, but at 200,000 miles, you'll want to have your intake ports walnut blasted.

 

[John in the Woods]

The easiest thing to do is to replace the intake with a new Mopar intake. The new Mopar intake will come with everything you need including a new MAP sensor. If you shop around, you can find the Mopar intakes for a decent price. You won't have much soot buildup on the intake ports, but at 200,000 miles, you'll want to have your intake ports walnut blasted.

Looks like $650 is the range for the Mopar replacement. That will hurt a bit, but if I can expect another 120K out of it and be sure I've kept the factory setup intact, I'll make the investment.

Any things to consider when making the swap in my garage? I'm a fairly capable garage wrencher, but if there's a process or tool I'll need I'd rather know up front before I make a mess. I'm looking forward to a good year of camping and wheeling, so I don't want to screw this up.

 

[biodiesel]

Looks like $650 is the range for the Mopar replacement. That will hurt a bit, but if I can expect another 120K out of it and be sure I've kept the factory setup intact, I'll make the investment.

Yeah, the cheapest I found was $604.36. I'm a little surprised that your swirl valves are sticking with only 120,000 miles on the odometer, but it's possible. The other possibility is an actuator failure. Either way, the new intake should keep your EcoDiesel in good running condition for the next 120,000+ miles.

Any things to consider when making the swap in my garage?

I would check the condition of the turbo coolant hose.

I'm looking forward to a good year of camping and wheeling, so I don't want to screw this up.

I completely understand. We do a lot of remote and long-distance driving/towing, so reliability is always my #1 concern. Take good care of the EcoDiesel and it will take good care of you!

We are now seeing Gen 2 engines lasting up to 550,000 miles, so we can only hope that the Gen 3 has similar longevity potential.

 

[John in the Woods]

I'm showing P200A and P200B, which read as INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER PERFORMANCE - BANK 1 & 2. I'm assuming replacing the manifold will address this.

Last question, at least until I start pulling things apart -- how urgent is this? Truck is running well, idles well, and the fuel milage is still very solid. Do I need to limit driving and get on this asap, or can I order the manifold and do this when the weather warms up a touch?

I've got a BOH trip to Rausch Creek planned for the 29th, and I'd hate to miss that.

 

[Rusty PW]

I'm showing P200A and P200B, which read as INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER PERFORMANCE - BANK 1 & 2. I'm assuming replacing the manifold will address this.

Last question, at least until I start pulling things apart -- how urgent is this? Truck is running well, idles well, and the fuel milage is still very solid. Do I need to limit driving and get on this asap, or can I order the manifold and do this when the weather warms up a touch?

I've got a BOH trip to Rausch Creek planned for the 29th, and I'd hate to miss that.

You're the first to report this. So....you're the guinea pig.

 

[DylanM]

I'm showing P200A and P200B, which read as INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER PERFORMANCE - BANK 1 & 2. I'm assuming replacing the manifold will address this.

Last question, at least until I start pulling things apart -- how urgent is this? Truck is running well, idles well, and the fuel milage is still very solid. Do I need to limit driving and get on this asap, or can I order the manifold and do this when the weather warms up a touch?

I've got a BOH trip to Rausch Creek planned for the 29th, and I'd hate to miss that.

Swirl valves close one runner of the dual intake for each cylinder at lower engine speed and manifold pressure in order to increase velocity and swirling of the intake charge which in turn leads to a reduction in particulates (emissions) and increase in power/efficiency. They open up as manifold pressure and engine speed increases -- the normal operation of the engine is then providing enough charge velocity and swirl with both runners open.

If you limit your idling and low load (low manifold pressure) driving, there really shouldn't be too much urgency to fix this. Be aware the DPF may need to regen more often.

 

[John in the Woods]

You're the first to report this. So....you're the guinea pig.

Sweet

 

[John in the Woods]

Swirl valves close one runner of the dual intake for each cylinder at lower engine speed and manifold pressure in order to increase velocity and swirling of the intake charge which in turn leads to a reduction in particulates (emissions) and increase in power/efficiency. They open up as manifold pressure and engine speed increases -- the normal operation of the engine is then providing enough charge velocity and swirl with both runners open.

If you limit your idling and low load (low manifold pressure) driving, there really shouldn't be too much urgency to fix this. Be aware the DPF may need to regen more often.

Thanks. I spent a few weeks on the road and living in the rig this winter, so I definitely did some long idling at times to stay warm. I did see a few more regens than I was used to in the last few months, so that might have been a sign I was headed this way.

I’ll keep idling and traffic jams to a minimum, and swap that manifold out once the weather perks up a bit in April. I’ll post some pics when I open it up so folks can see what 120K looks like inside the intake.

Still love the truck, and can’t complain that it needs a little work after all the years and travels. I plan on racking up another 120K at least, and look forward to every mile.

 

[biodiesel]

I'm showing P200A and P200B, which read as INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER PERFORMANCE - BANK 1 & 2. I'm assuming replacing the manifold will address this.

Yes, the Mopar intake will come with everything you need.

Last question, at least until I start pulling things apart -- how urgent is this?

It's not super urgent, but I wouldn't make any long trips with it. The swirl valves help the mixing of air and fuel to improve combustion and cleaner emissions.

I've got a BOH trip to Rausch Creek planned for the 29th, and I'd hate to miss that.

If you don't have time to make the repair now, then I would have a dealer or shop complete the work before your trip. It's a pretty easy job for an experienced tech, especially a dealer diesel tech who has already done dozens of these jobs. I would hate for your truck to derate because the repair hasn't been completed. I just don't know how Stellantis has programmed the software on these new trucks to deal with this sort of issue. Derates can happen based on the number of key cycles, miles driven, or other monitored parameters.

 

[biodiesel]

Thanks. I spent a few weeks on the road and living in the rig this winter, so I definitely did some long idling at times to stay warm. I did see a few more regens than I was used to in the last few months, so that might have been a sign I was headed this way.

Okay, this is starting to make a little more sense. Essentially, the EGR recirculates exhaust gases back into the engine. Since the low pressure EGR is post DPF, there shouldn't be as much soot going back to the intake, but apparently there's still enough carbon to create problems for the swirl valves. Since you do a lot of idling, then you'll experience more EGR.

Still love the truck, and can’t complain that it needs a little work after all the years and travels. I plan on racking up another 120K at least, and look forward to every mile.

Absolutely. The EPA has really added a lot of extra maintenance to these engines, but that doesn't mean a shortened engine life. Many people believe that deleting a diesel will make it live longer, but that's not necessarily true. We've seen stock Gen 2 engines with 400,000 miles. It just means that intakes, EGR Valves, EGR coolers, DEF pump, etc. will need to be replaced throughout the service life of the engine.

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