Engine air filters made of gold

[MrBones]

That catch is that when it's dirty, it's a problem for letting air through. Yes, a filter filters more/better as it gets dirty, but the amount of air going through is restricted.
Jeeps aren't performance vehicles, race vehicles, or needing "more air" than the factory or a good quality paper filter can supply. The CFM flow just isn't that high.
Another video out there shows a guy using a K&N on his Ford pickup - and showed on the dyno how yes, it was marginally better for hp and torque - above about 5,000 RPM.
So - how many here run their 3.6 over 5,000 on a regular basis? Most seem to cringe when it hits 4,000 RPM.
As far as "seat of the pants" changes - LOL - full frontal placebo. You aren't pulling enough air through that thing taking off from a stop to notice any real difference with a gas engine. Valves are in LOW LIFT mode at that point until you get 3,000 RPM and by then, you won't be paying attention to notice any "change".
I run dual quads on a 360 with a comp cam and pull through a heck of a lot more air than these little engines can muster - and run less "filter per CID" than Jeeps do.

Exactly why I only used them on my Cobra. It thrived at 6200.

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[BourbonRunner]

That catch is that when it's dirty, it's a problem for letting air through. Yes, a filter filters more/better as it gets dirty, but the amount of air going through is restricted.
Jeeps aren't performance vehicles, race vehicles, or needing "more air" than the factory or a good quality paper filter can supply. The CFM flow just isn't that high.
Another video out there shows a guy using a K&N on his Ford pickup - and showed on the dyno how yes, it was marginally better for hp and torque - above about 5,000 RPM.
So - how many here run their 3.6 over 5,000 on a regular basis? Most seem to cringe when it hits 4,000 RPM.
As far as "seat of the pants" changes - LOL - full frontal placebo. You aren't pulling enough air through that thing taking off from a stop to notice any real difference with a gas engine. Valves are in LOW LIFT mode at that point until you get 3,000 RPM and by then, you won't be paying attention to notice any "change".
I run dual quads on a 360 with a comp cam and pull through a heck of a lot more air than these little engines can muster - and run less "filter per CID" than Jeeps do.

Fine and well but you're not accounting for the post K&N install race car noises and adds HP largely due to the all important sticker area coverage total to horsepower ratio.

Duh.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Fine and well but you're not accounting for the post K&N install race car noises and adds HP largely due to the all important sticker area coverage total to horsepower ratio.

Duh.

A fart can will compensate for that air flow loss as the filter fills up and does a better job blocking stuff - including air.

 

[TheSolarWizard]

I have a brand new filter for the gasser someone can have for the cost of shipping. Sometime in the past 12 months it came in for my diesel and the vendor said just keep it

 

[Blade1668]

The only reasonable use for washable filters (K&N) is in race or marine engines. Test after test has demonstrated their filtering capacity is dismal. Ironically, they clean better with dirt loading and perform less well initially after cleaning.

Paper filters are quite efficient and even at $50, are pretty cheap on a per mile basis if you change every third oil change (15-20k miles).

Probably why my MJ,XJ's run the way they do.... hardly ever cleaned K&N filters in the decades of use. Just add more oil and go. I definitely know that they suck as air filters but there in them and I haven't had mice to chew holes in them.
In my JT the cabin air filter is a K&N but regular type for engine. When I think about it, I stop by auto parts store and get one. It's not as often as oil filter changes. When I was stationed in Germany I had to buy filters when available the reason for its K&N filter.

Bill, thanks for reposting the air filter testing results.

 

[MudderNuker]

The only reasonable use for washable filters (K&N) is in race or marine engines. Test after test has demonstrated their filtering capacity is dismal. Ironically, they clean better with dirt loading and perform less well initially after cleaning.

Paper filters are quite efficient and even at $50, are pretty cheap on a per mile basis if you change every third oil change (15-20k miles).

Exactly! I wouldn't put a K&N filter on my vehicles. You are essentially turning your engine into a giant Hoover vacuum cleaner because you will be sucking all kinds of dirt into the engine. If you still want a high flow filter you can do better than K&N by going with a dry media. I think AEM showe better filtering on some tests if I recall correctly. Off course oem paper will filter best. As a matter of fact, there is a video on YouTube where they test a S&B intake vs stock air box and the stock air box performed much better. The S&B showed lost power vs stock. But it sounds cool, right? The stock air box is well designed.

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