Engine Break In Procedure?

[cecaa850]

May well be, but I'd hope that the batteries would hold up longer than the short time they'd sit on transport. Once unloaded, they would normally be moved around every so often - at least they are here. But then some dealers are so big that some may sit for 2 or 3 months un-started.
OTOH -
If my JT can't sit for 4-6 weeks without draining the battery, I won't be very happy.

I don't know the ins and outs of shipping but if the key is left in the vehicle and it's not in ship mode some vehicle modules won't go to sleep and will drain the batteries. In addition, vehicles sit in storage lots untill they're shipped to dealers as they wait for a full load at time. They don't pop out of the factory and head straight to the dealers. Sometimes they're shipped by train, then truck. There can be delays along the way.

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[ShadowsPapa]

I don't know the ins and outs of shipping but if the key is left in the vehicle and it's not in ship mode some vehicle modules won't go to sleep and will drain the batteries. In addition, vehicles sit in storage lots untill they're shipped to dealers as they wait for a full load at time. They don't pop out of the factory and head straight to the dealers. Sometimes they're shipped by train, then truck. There can be delays along the way.

Mine was the exception on shipping. Sunday night the salesguy contacted me and said he'd just gotten word it was being sent out to shipping. Tuesday morning it had arrived.
I knew that OTR drivers had to be off the job 10 out of every 24 so was even trying to figure out if the guy had just ended his sleep cycle and could still drive 10 and work 4 before he had to take a break LOL - yeah, I was that OCD about it, even trying to figure what the driver might be doing out of that 24 hour period.

I was able to track it and knew when it went into build, when it was completed, and it shipped literally the Sunday after it was done (can't recall, it was either Friday or Saturday). It was received by the dealer Tuesday AM - they sent me a photo as it was parked by their shop. I picked it up that evening. So it was a day over a week from the time it went down the line and into my hands. It was trucked from Ohio to Iowa literally a week after it was started down the line.
I've seen others here say that it took them close to a month to get their truck from the time they said it was being built. A lot of it was "inspection" - it hadn't actually left to be shipped, but others have said shipping took days.

 

[d k]

Actually, it's the other way around. Break in oil does not have any additives. Just oil.

Another important thing is do NOT do the first oil change early! Engine oil from the plant has special additive packages to help coat and protect the engine and also aid with break in. Best to drive it until the oil change required light comes on.

 

[d k]

There is only one way to properly break in an engine and to see how its done, watch airplane (piston) engine break in videos, and you'll get an idea how a piston engine is SUPPOSED to be broken in.
Basically, after the engine is rebuilt and re installed, the airplane gets pushed to the runway, once they get clearance, they start the engine, smash the throttle and take off.


That's it!

The idea is to load the piston rings and to keep the walls from glazing.

Any other fluff is completely wrong and is only put there to keep engine manufacturers from getting sued.


To translate that into cars (and motorcycles), you have to find space to very the rpm and load(!) by accelerating and decelerating up and down, up and down to about 75% of redline, in lower gears as much as possible.

The enemy of a new engine is the freeway and constant rpm. This is what you must avoid at all costs if you plan on keeping your Jeep for a long time.

I have done this to every car and motorcycle I have ever owned, and it works wonders.

 

[d k]

Yep!

Seen many engines blow up at the track because of this

0W20 is specified solely for EPA requirements

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Actually, it's the other way around. Break in oil does not have any additives. Just oil.

Wrong- break in oil is simply the oil that's put in at the factory. It's GOT to have the protection of any oil. Additives are what make it protect - anti-foam, corrosion inhibiters, etc.
It used to be the OLD TIMERS would use non-detergent oil for break-in. That's since been shown to be problematic.
I've built many engines, and some of my friends have built many many dozens - same oil goes in that will be used later.

If you want proof I'll post from an SAE engineer on the topic.

Frankly, there is NO SUCH THING as break-in oil. It is simply what the first oil is. I used the exact same oil I was always going to run on every single engine I have ever built, including that engine in my SX4 now that has 33,500 on it since my rebuild.
I've been building engines for all sorts of purposes since the early 1970s. Cars, trucks, motorcycles, even go-karts and lawn mowers - don't forget tractors.
If you put in oil that doesn't have the same protection you expect down the line, you can mess up an engine really fast.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

There is only one way to properly break in an engine and to see how its done, watch airplane (piston) engine break in videos, and you'll get an idea how a piston engine is SUPPOSED to be broken in.
Basically, after the engine is rebuilt and re installed, the airplane gets pushed to the runway, once they get clearance, they start the engine, smash the throttle and take off.


That's it!

The idea is to load the piston rings and to keep the walls from glazing.

Any other fluff is completely wrong and is only put there to keep engine manufacturers from getting sued.


To translate that into cars (and motorcycles), you have to find space to very the rpm and load(!) by accelerating and decelerating up and down, up and down to about 75% of redline, in lower gears as much as possible.

The enemy of a new engine is the freeway and constant rpm. This is what you must avoid at all costs if you plan on keeping your Jeep for a long time.

I have done this to every car and motorcycle I have ever owned, and it works wonders.

Looks like I need to post the bits from my college engine books, and from Perfect Circle on engine break-in.........

 

[Geoarch]

There is no break in procedure for the clutch. It's more in how you apply the clutch. Women and a lot of men simply do not know how to use a clutch. I can see 80k+ miles on a clutch, some men and women can barely get 10k miles.

Friend of mine bought his first Ferarri and about 10k miles later he shucked out $10k for a clutch job. Many people drive with their left foot on the clutch, just as many people drive with the left foot on the brake in automatic trans cars. Many people cannot get 10k miles out of a set of brakes.

I see that riding brakes all the time - and bashed in rears of cars.

 

[Geoarch]

Bringing up an old thread because my truck is finally in KZ and will hopefully arrive soon. I read the recommended break in procedure and it is somewhat confusing. It says after 60 mph speeds up to 50 to 55 mph are desirable. It never says not to go above these speeds during the first 300 mph. Second it says occasional full open throttle is good but not in low gear. I take this as in fourth fifth and sixth occasionaly go to red line. Am i miss reading the manual.
As far as oil changes I know it varies with each change when the change oil light comes on. I assume there is some sort of opacity or filter delta pressure sensor that lets the car know oil is dirty. If thats the case I would just change the oil when the car tells you to.

Yeah I was confused too. I just kept it below 55 for 300 miles and accelerated in 2nd or 3rd periodically, or at highway speeds in 4th. I’ve always done it that way.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Vary the speed as much as possible at first, no UNLOADED high RPM. Heavy acceleration a few times - with a load - don't let it downshift and wind up tight, but don't lug it.
The book is way over-kill, IMO. Varying the speed and load is where I've had great luck.
I build the engine, get everything just right (where you can set timing and carburetor, etc.) check for leaks, check fluids and pressure, and drive it.
The idea is that loading flexes things, wears off the high spots of rings and cylinder walls, bearings and crank journals.

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