ESS Delete Issues?

[Everyday Normal Engineer]

Hey about 2 weeks ago I went to start my 2022 JT and it was completely dead. Tried charging the batteries but I could never get it to start so decided it was time to delete the ESS battery and install a larger battery.

I removed the aux battery and installed a larger battery. I did so but taping off the aux battery terminals and removing F42 fuse. Everything seemed great for a couple weeks but I went out to start the JT and it was completely dead.

I went ahead and removed and tapped off the aux connection at the battery (thinking maybe it could be causing an issue and noticed the negative terminal was loose so retightened the terminal. Now that the aux terminal is disconnected I get a dash light for Auto Start/Stop.

So could the loose negative terminal be the reason my battery was dead? I also noticed every time I touch the negative terminal to the battery post it sparks - could I have a fault somewhere?

Note: checked alternator voltage while running and I am getting ~14 so seems normal there.

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[BourbonRunner]

Sounds like you have a parasitic draw somewhere if you removed the aux and installed a new starter battery.

Do you have any accessories that could be drawing power while off like a dash cam?

 

[Everyday Normal Engineer]

Sounds like you have a parasitic draw somewhere if you removed the aux and installed a new starter battery.

Do you have any accessories that could be drawing power while off like a dash cam?

I have a GMRS radio installed through factory aux buttons, but it's turned off currently

 

[BourbonRunner]

I have a GMRS radio installed through factory aux buttons, but it's turned off currently

I'm thinking in spite of your alternator outputting 14v its somewhere in the charging system.

There's high amp fuses on the side of the fuse box that are tied to the charging system. It's possible somewhere arc'ed and roached one. If you get less than 12v on a multimeter on the posts while running and the dash still says 14v you may have blown the PDC fuse.

Otherwise do you have a Tazer? That might be keeping a body module active. In fact a BCM not going to sleep could be the issue. IIRC hood pin latches going south can be a cause of that one too.

 

[J Sierra]

Your battery terminals need to be cleaned

 

[sharpsicle]

I have to say, the last image makes it look like you've removed the IBS from the system, which you should not be doing. That, coupled with the warning light being on, tells me you didn't do the aux delete properly.

A proper aux delete keeps everything functioning normally. No sensors should be removed, and no warnings should show. I'd start there and get that done right before chasing down other potential things.

 

[redfish]

Ditto on this , looks like wrong negative was removed

 

[Everyday Normal Engineer]

I have to say, the last image makes it look like you've removed the IBS from the system, which you should not be doing. That, coupled with the warning light being on, tells me you didn't do the aux delete properly.

A proper aux delete keeps everything functioning normally. No sensors should be removed, and no warnings should show. I'd start there and get that done right before chasing down other potential things.

Hey appreciate the reply. I tried to delete that photo but it wouldn't let me. I had it hooked it up that way but realized that was wrong and switched it to the first picture showing the large negative attached to the IBS and the IBS hooked up.

 

[sharpsicle]

Hey appreciate the reply. I tried to delete that photo but it wouldn't let me. I had it hooked it up that way but realized that was wrong and switched it to the first picture showing the large negative attached to the IBS and the IBS hooked up.

There’s still evidence the aux delete wasn’t done correctly. You have a warning light and a dead battery. Something’s not correct. I would go back through that and get it right.

 

[Everyday Normal Engineer]

There’s still evidence the aux delete wasn’t done correctly. You have a warning light and a dead battery. Something’s not correct. I would go back through that and get it right.

Yes totally agree, but there seems to be various approaches to the aux battery delete. So just trying to make sure mine is correct.

My current setup is aux battery removed, with neg/pos wrapped in electrical tape, F42 fuse removed, small negative cable disconnectted and Large cable connected to IBS and terminal then connected to neg battery terminal.

The truck had no issues starting this morning so I believe the loose negative terminal might have been the issues causing the dead battery.

I just left the negative cable disconnected for about 30 mins and the start/stop light is now gone and has not returned.

 

[Everyday Normal Engineer]

I'm thinking in spite of your alternator outputting 14v its somewhere in the charging system.

There's high amp fuses on the side of the fuse box that are tied to the charging system. It's possible somewhere arc'ed and roached one. If you get less than 12v on a multimeter on the posts while running and the dash still says 14v you may have blown the PDC fuse.

Otherwise do you have a Tazer? That might be keeping a body module active. In fact a BCM not going to sleep could be the issue. IIRC hood pin latches going south can be a cause of that one too.

Hey I checked with a multimeter and I am getting over 14v at the battery while the truck is running and dash says same thing.

I don't have a tazer installed. I'm think loose negative cable might of contributed to the dead battery and after resetting for 30 mins the start/stop light has gone away. So I am going to keep checking the battery to see if it get drained again.

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